MSUICEMAN Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 Would like to use a sickle hook on an ultra minnow head jig. Only a custom mold 200+ dollars I know exist with this combo. If I lay the hook in a do-it mold and mark the interferences, could I gouge out the aluminum with a Dremel to give the "new" hook clearance? Could I also possibly shorten the lead collar by putting clay in that area? You guys have much more experience in this than me. Just don't want to spend the insane money (though they sure are pretty) on a semi custom mold. Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigmeister Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) Easy just lay the hook you want to use on the open mold lining it up with the hook eye and cavity . with a sharp pencil or fine sharpie trace around both sides of the hook making an outline of the hook .Using a dremil tool with a small ball tipped cutter start grinding out aluminum about 1/2 the diameter of the hook wire . Check depth every so often by placing the hook in the slot you're cutting so you don't cut too deep . When happy do the same to the other half . Make sure the mold closes fully with a hook when you're done or you will have a flashing of lead around the parting line between mold halves . You can fill or block off parks of a mold you don't want such a skirt collars with JB weld or red automotive High Temp silicone . Edited May 22, 2020 by jigmeister 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 When I modify a mold I put the hook where I want it, hold it in place with a piece of masking tape, put the mold in a vice and squeeze it as hard as i can. Sometimes a Dremel is not even needed. I block all unused sections with RTV silicone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 (edited) I’ve had good luck with flat end mill bits and ball end mill bits in my drill press with a drill press clamp. The dremel for me wanted to walk, wasn’t easy to control, and just made a mess of things. What worked is laying a Hook on one side and spraying the hook and mold with mold release. This will leave the outline of hook on the mold. Doing the same on the other side. Removing material with the end mills. Edited May 23, 2020 by Apdriver Added content Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSUICEMAN Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 I'm going to buy the stock mold for 39 bucks. Will see if I can easily mod it. I'm sure someone has come up with it other than the custom mold route. Though I have also contemplated taking an ultra jig, cutting out the hook with a Dremel carefully, replacing with a sickle hook, patching it with clay and then attempting to make a plaster mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Just a question from someone who has never had to try it. Can you use JB Weld to repair over-ground areas, so you can just lay your hook, covered with some kind of release agent, into the wet weld, let it cure, and then file/sand the excess weld flat, and then do the same thing with the other mold half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfdong Posted May 24, 2020 Report Share Posted May 24, 2020 (edited) Tape it exactly where you want it, close tightly And hit it with a hammer on both sides. I’ve done it many times for hooks. yes you can use JB WELD to close/repair areas. Done this too and it’s lasted years Edited May 24, 2020 by rfdong 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSUICEMAN Posted May 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2020 going to give it a whirl when the mold gets here. my fluid bed system finally got here, so thats nice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...