Chipped finish help

[Big Epp]

I don't know anything about working with fishing rods, but I chipped the finish on one of my favorite rods.  What is the best way to fix this?

[Don Mang]

If the blank is not damaged, 2pt thread finish. Followed by Perma-Gloss rod finish. You only need a little at a time, 2-3 coats. I apply it with a coffee filter, let each coat dry approx 6 hours. I use this on all my rods, very flexible!!

[Big Epp]

Thanks!  It looks like the blank is just fine.  I was a duffus and had it resting against the edge of the boat while trolling for bass.  A couple fish in I noticed damage to the clear coat.

[william cohen]

Buy some rod wrapping finish I use "flex coat". If it's a small chip 1 coat will do. You have to rotate the rod   for a while or else you will get a bumpy finish. I apply with a cheap artist brush throw away type.

I have not tried Perma Gloss, makes an excellent product.

Edited February 6, 2022 by william cohen
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[william cohen]

Permagloss is great stuff.....but there are a few things you need to know about it. Moisture in the air is what causes it to cure. Moisture in the bottle will cause it to harden in the bottle.....eventually. Put marbles in the bottle as you use it to get the air out as much as possible. The cap will eventually get brittle and break on you so replace it with a Testors Model paint cap.

It is like water when you apply it. It takes 4-8 thin coats to get to where you can't feel the threads. But it is much more durable once set-up than regular epoxy.

I like to do a "Drip Coat" with it. I apply it with a metal needle by dropping a good size drop on the wrap, and work it quickly side to side as I rotate the blank just to get the wrap covered. I then turn the blank guide side UP for a reason. When the wrap is completely covered and wet, I move to the next wrap and do the same thing. When I have three wraps covered, I look to make sure the excess is DRIPPING off the wrap onto the bench. If I leave the blank with the guides down, the stuff will run down the guide frame into the insert!

I use the needle to pull the drips off after they form making sure to rotate the blank a few times so it flows to the area I touched.

Let it set for half an hour and its cured to tack free. No need to really put it on a drying motor really as the coats are so thin. As long as you don't mess with it after it starts thickening up, bubbles are not a problem usually. Brushes seem to cause more bubbles than the needle.

Repeat that process several times and eventually it will look very nice. Not as thick or glossy as epoxy finishes but still very nice. And it gets you high too.......

[Chris Catignani]

What kind of "chip" are we talking about?

If its big and you think it might jeopardize the integrity of the blank....

...you could just wrap some black thread over it (like a guide) and coat it with finish.

[Big Epp]

Thanks all!  It's probably about 1/4" square, more or less.  I think the blank is okay, I didn't notice any chipping, cracking, or splitting.  This is very helpful, thanks again!