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Small Crankbaits

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I've been trying to make a good small (~2") crankbait, but have been running into some trouble.  Some of it is low productivity on my part.  Some were soaked to long in wood hardener so they sank like rocks, some had uneven lips, some needed more ballast.  I cooked up a little "bug" lure that works pretty well as a small wakebait/jerkbait, but that's all my progress so far.  The pond I fish most has some big bass (5+ pounds), but it's also got a lot of crappie and bluegill.  I've made plenty to catch the bass, but am trying to target the smaller, tastier types.  Then after I get that figured out maybe I'll try my hand at making a walleye crankbait, but one thing at a time...

What are some tips for making small baits?  I'm not looking to make a small glidebait, I've got one at just under 2" thank works really well, I'm looking more for a typical shad rap or quarterback type crankbait.

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As my own echo-chamber... I've looked over the profiles of some smaller cranks, the Norman Quaterback and a Salmo, and I'll probably try and build a couple off those, then once I get used to the basics there I'll try my own designs.  I already sketched out a profile similar to, but original from, the Quarterback.

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I approach them just like any other bait.   Wood hardener is something I would not use and don't see any need for it, especially with bass cranks and down.  

I have a few baits I make that are around 2 inches or under slightly.  Have made a few smaller ones but more for kicks as don't really fish them as rarely target crappie or gills anymore.

The rust crank comes in at 1 7/8 but after carving the master just made a mold of it so "making" those aren't difficult.  The other crank is right at two inches but broad and no problem to knock out.  As they get smaller easier I find inserting a dowel into the belly weight hole (wrap the dowel with painters tape to get snug fit) makes handling and carving the bait much easier.  For baits the size you are looking to do would definitely look at using a dowel to add an area to hold onto/support while working.

cranks.jpg

Edited by Travis
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On 7/15/2020 at 12:25 PM, Travis said:

I approach them just like any other bait.   Wood hardener is something I would not use and don't see any need for it, especially with bass cranks and down.  

I have a few baits I make that are around 2 inches or under slightly.  Have made a few smaller ones but more for kicks as don't really fish them as rarely target crappie or gills anymore.

The rust crank comes in at 1 7/8 but after carving the master just made a mold of it so "making" those aren't difficult.  The other crank is right at two inches but broad and no problem to knock out.  As they get smaller easier I find inserting a dowel into the belly weight hole (wrap the dowel with painters tape to get snug fit) makes handling and carving the bait much easier.  For baits the size you are looking to do would definitely look at using a dowel to add an area to hold onto/support while working.

cranks.jpg

Good idea with the dowel!  My fingers certainly get sore trying to hold the little pieces of wood, and they are awfully close to the knife...

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The big problem with small cranks is squeezing all the hardware and making the bait secure should a monster attack the fragile bait full of holes.

My small crank (41mm body length) was designed with these problems in mind. I also wanted to produce a bait that takes less than an hour from start to final assembly. Plenty of action and catches fish - I succeeded.

The reason for the small crank design is that the bawal fish has a small mouth, and I have caught up to 12.5Lbs.

There is no carving. It is a flat sided lure with rounded edges. Tools used; band saw, drill press, hand drill, router and belt sander.

The belly wire links to the tow eye wire on assembly. The tow eye has 30mm of wood penetration. the lip is tailored around the tow eye, making a compact yet robust lure which has pulled in angry fish up to ten pounds.

Link to design.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman
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