Walking Dead Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 Is it trial an error to get a good start on the amount of ballast weight needed on wood crank baits? I know the question is loaded. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 When I want to make a lure that dives to a certain depth, or performs in a certain manner, I use a commercial bait that does those things as my initial guide for lip length/shape/angle, line tie position, and angle of attack at rest/ballast amount and placement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 I usually go with trial and error. I find that to be quicker. I bought some 1/4” diameter solid lead wire sinker coil off amazon which you can cut to any length. I also made some ballast weights for bigger lures by drilling a bunch of holes partially through scrap wood with 3/8” and 1/2" forstner bits. I drill the holes at varying depths. I melt some old saltwater lead sinkers in a big heavy spoon with a propane torch and pour the lead into the holes (do it outside, wear a mask, gloves, etc.). Just don’t use any hole that goes through the wood. When the lead cools, tap the wood upside down and most fall out. If the weights stick you can pry them out with a screwdriver. You can do some light filing to make the weights smooth. You end up with various length cylinder lead weights in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch diameters to use as test ballast weights that will slide right into ballast holes in a lure drilled with those bits. I seal the lure and attach test weights with rubber bands or hot glue which is easy to scrape off. If I am sure of the ballast location but not the weight, I will drill the ballast holes and then seal the lure. I can drop the weights into the ballast holes and cover it with 2 pieces of scotch tape in an ‘X’ or rubber bands. I have a tub of different length weights. I can swap out weights off different lengths for testing. In my notes/lure body templates, I will mark the weight location and size (ex. 3/8 diameter weight that is ½” long). I also weigh the weight before I seal it in the body just to have that info too. Just make easy lob casts or drag the lure through the water down the shore/along a dock. Check to make sure any tape/rubber bands are in position in between casts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 (edited) Ha! Bet you can guess my answer 1 - Weigh the body. 2 - Archimedes volume test for body volume. 3 - Weigh the hardware. 4 - Simple calculation. 5 - Find COG of body 6 - Build. Dave Edited August 27, 2020 by Vodkaman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted August 27, 2020 Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 I just wing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted August 27, 2020 Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 Either way you end up float testing. Why is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 27, 2020 Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 There is nothing wrong with float testing or 'winging it'. Engineering or trial and error still give you total control. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...