Fluid Bed Build

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I'm learning a lot here and haven't had anything to contribute since I'm staring out with all of this.  I read this thread 

and thinking about what Kasil was describing I built this below.

It has three 3" cups that I put 3x2 bushings in for 2" cups . I could not find aquarium valves so in Lowes I found irrigation drip line valves and also bought 1/4" drip tubing. The drip tube miked out at .275 and a 19/64 drill bit miked at .281 so I pushed the tubing in through the drilled holed and put a little bit of silicone around it.

I'm not sure how deep to make the cups? I cut these at 2" and used the knockouts with tyvek paper. I three cut with just caps to keep the base cups covered when not in use. First thing I am seeing is that a 2" cup will be too small I believe since I will mostly be using 1/4 to 1 oz. and that will not give me enough to room to " swish" the jigs . Some will be 4oz. and up that will be used on the reefs offshore.

I thought three cups for a base coat, second light color coat and one for a clear coat. I've been researching the " tap brush method " and have found quite a bit information for detailing and adding depth from Cadmans posts.

I wasn't sure where to put this up so I put it here.

So here are a few pictures.

 

[Kasilofchrisn]

Looks good so far.

What is the size/output of your aquarium pump?

I've done jigs to 24+oz in a 2" cup so the shape of your jig will determine if the 2" will work.

No need to swish in the fluid bed. I just dip mine straight in and out.

I built simple hook tools to facilitate dipping longer/heavier slab type jigs with eyelets on each end. The hooks are rigged assist style and added at the end after painting and eyes added.

The length of your longest jig will determine the height.

You'll need a bit of room at the top as the bigger jigs displace the powder during dipping.

My tallest beds are 12" tall 2" diameter cups.

Using a whisper brand 30/60 aquarium pump I can easily run 2 of these cups at a time.

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I figured very fast that the 2" cups were to shallow. I made some more at 3 1/2" and they work much better. Getting a lot of volcanos and I experimented with different paper. I went up to 24lb. copy paper and settled on 20lb. copy paper but I'm still getting the volcanos. It is worst with the chrome base coat powder from CC. The powder will just "rise" in a "lump" and then collapse. Seems to be just this color that is doing that for some reason that I don't know. I did find that using a 5" cup for those colors worked better than the 3 1/2" cup for a standard color , say Super White which does fine in the smaller cup.

I don't know what the output of the pump is. I use them for to keep Shrimp and mud minnows alive in 160 Qt. Igloo ( might be bigger coolers ) coolers. They seem to run forever though.

The "tap" method is frustrating but I can see the learning curve. I'll just have to spend more time on that.

Couple jig pictures below of my recent disasters.

I wasn't sure about starting a separate thread for the jig pictures?

 

[Apdriver]

Nice build on your fluid bed. Your jigs look good to. You are well on your way on this powder coating part of tacklecrafting. After a bunch of frustrating time spent trying to find what filter I needed for what paint and volcanoes and non fluidizing powder and on and on, I searched out a vibratory motor to mount on my cups. It made my powder coating much simpler and better because I can get nice thin coverage and not cover up as much detail with thick powder. Just an idea.....

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AP,

Appreciate the idea.

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I have to admit that I feel very weird searching on the " internet" for vibratory motors. 

At least my wife has not caught on yet ...

Quite a selection out there.

[basskat]

Where'd you the the motor AP?

[Apdriver]

39 minutes ago, basskat said:

Where'd you the the motor AP?

Got it off Amazon. It’s a cheap pot stirrer that runs off double A’s. Removable little legs, throw those away. Three speed that thumps pretty good. I just zip tied it to my cup and use at least three layers of news print for a filter. Never change it. May have to sit your cup on a piece of cloth so it doesn’t run away.

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Handsfree-Stirrer-Blender-Kitchen/dp/B08247K8RM/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Pot+stirrer&qid=1600562867&sr=8-7

[Kasilofchrisn]

I built a vibratory base that has two fluid beds attached.

It aluminum, sits on spring feet, has two vibe motors and a speed controller to adjust the vibration.

It works well to tame the volcano on stubborn powders.

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46 minutes ago, Kasilofchrisn said:

I built a vibratory base that has two fluid beds attached.

It aluminum, sits on spring feet, has two vibe motors and a speed controller to adjust the vibration.

It works well to tame the volcano on stubborn powders.

I found that thread and I have it on my laptop. I started searching for the "vibrator" motors and it got pretty weird. 

[Kasilofchrisn]

I bought my motors on ebay.

I tried to link to them but it's not working from my phone.

But just search "vibration motors".

Nothing weird pops up for me when I search that. Some listings mention adult toys but it's just a mention of it.

Keep in mind that almost all of these ship from china.

Not sure how the Chinese shipping is going right now though.

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Kasil,

Thanks. I just found them. My original search, I put vibrator motors. Not the smartest thing I've done lately. 

These should work and I have a battery maintainer that should run them. I'm going to try a different isolation mount for the cups. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/uxcell-DC-12V-4200RPM-Vibrating-Vibration-Motor-for-Massage-Cushion/124257480921?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-10-60V-6A-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-Reversible-Switch-Regulator-Switch/112932621723

.

Plan right now is to have a controller for each cup ( three of them ) since each paint seems to have a different density. Some like the Super white do fine. I have more problems with the chrome and metallic powders.

Appreciate the help from everyone,

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[Kasilofchrisn]

3 hours ago, 4/0 said:

Kasil,

Thanks. I just found them. My original search, I put vibrator motors. Not the smartest thing I've done lately. 

These should work and I have a battery maintainer that should run them. I'm going to try a different isolation mount for the cups. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/uxcell-DC-12V-4200RPM-Vibrating-Vibration-Motor-for-Massage-Cushion/124257480921?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-10-60V-6A-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-Reversible-Switch-Regulator-Switch/112932621723

.

Plan right now is to have a controller for each cup ( three of them ) since each paint seems to have a different density. Some like the Super white do fine. I have more problems with the chrome and metallic powders.

Appreciate the help from everyone,

4/0

I tried a version of the vibration motors in your link.

They didn't provide enough vibration for my setup and they finally burnt up.I was very dissappointed in them.

The ones I'm using now have an external weight on them and I'm much happier with them.

They seem to be able to cool better as well which should prevent them burning up as quickly.

These are the type I'm currently using.(yay the link worked this time)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272912193211

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Kasil,

Thanks.

I like the mounting option with these. Plan right now is to take some PVC board and scribe it to the outside of the base cup. Countersink and fasten then mount the vib. motor to that. Mount the base of the cup to the wood with some isolation blocks on the bottom of the cup.

I'll post some pictures when it's built.

Appreciate it,

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