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2marshall8

Dual Injection Bleeding

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Anyone know why I had some of my dual injection blends right on and others bled over? I've tried 350, 330, 320 degrees and tried to match the 2 blends of plastic as close as possible within 5-10 degrees when shooting at those temps, but haven't found a super consistent dual laminate. I think the bass won't care since nature has all kinds of imperfections in how baitfish look but people will. thanks.

dual_1.jpg

dual_2.jpg

dual_3.jpg

dual_rev_1.jpg

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Try this, take the tips out of your injector. Place the ends on a flat surface and push down until you gently make contact. Then loosen the set screws that control the plunger depth. push down hold pressure while you tighten the screws back.  Put tips back in. This will help to insure the injector is putting out equal amounts on both sides. Providing your hand pressure is steady and equal. 

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12 hours ago, Apdriver said:

Multi cavity mold? If so, can you show it to us or provide a link to it?

https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/aluminum-mold-v23-5-cavity-2-8-inch-70-mm-separate/

 

11 hours ago, toadfrog said:

Try this, take the tips out of your injector. Place the ends on a flat surface and push down until you gently make contact. Then loosen the set screws that control the plunger depth. push down hold pressure while you tighten the screws back.  Put tips back in. This will help to insure the injector is putting out equal amounts on both sides. Providing your hand pressure is steady and equal. 

good idea. I'll try this later today. I own the bass tackle dual injector, and when I do shoot I have one hand stabilizing the blending block and one hand applying pressure to the dual injector. do you normally use 2 hands to push down on the injector handles? that might be another idea I'll try.

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This mold should laminate. Very critical to get the viscosity of the two colors close. Usually we do this by having the temps close but depending on additives they can affect viscosity. You can eyeball it by pulling out your stirrer and letting some plastic drizzle back in cup. Not very scientific but works. The other thing I can suggest is slow your injection speed down. With the ribs, a really fast injection speed may tend to swirl those colors. If I’m having trouble with this, I’ll take my temps down too. 320 is as hot as I ever shoot and sometimes I’ll go below 300 if I’m having trouble with a laminate. 280 I start having other difficulties like freezing.

Edited by Apdriver
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On 11/11/2020 at 6:36 AM, Apdriver said:

Let us know if you get this ironed out. After looking at the mold closely, there may be something else if these suggestions don’t straighten out your issue.

what was that "something" else? I'm still not getting perfect double laminates to the standard I want to see them. 

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Right where the red circle is he put a large obstruction to the flow of the plastisol coming out of your nozzle and then this cavity down stream that has to be filled before the plastic flows through the gate. If it was mine, I would grind that out, polish it as best as I could and see if that helps. I don’t think you will have any issues if you could successfully remove that......whatever that is.......

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First off thanks everyone for just your awesome support and help in helping me find the root cause for this issue, this is amazing advice that y’all gave me.

Take a look at the attached picture and you’ll see this recent shoot I did actually was very well distributed between the top and the bottom colors where the runners are located, it’s not until you get towards the last inch of the bait near the tail section that you see the colors blend. I shot these around 326°.  Do you still feel that all you said applies or should I be shooting at a lower temp?

2E70E851-34F9-4872-BFE6-92EDBA56AD60.jpeg

Edited by 2marshall8
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It looks like you have good separation except with one cavity. The other four look good. Before you move any metal, exhaust all other possibilities of solution. Yes, reduce your temps. You may have shot the one cavity faster than the others. Only you with the mold and hot plastic knows your process. Sometimes to work out a problematic mold, it takes a lot of trial and error. Explore them all and just looking at your runners, just lower your temps and shoot slow. 

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Something makes me think that I do need to lower the temp to thicken the viscosity, that way when the two plastics hit they can’t meld as much together. I’ll keep trying things . So since I been shooting at 325-335 should I get down into the 310’s ? When u are troubleshooting how wide do u usually jump in temperature tests ?

Edited by 2marshall8
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