Shmang Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 Got a few new molds from lurecraft recently and one really produces a dull hazy pour on one side. The other side is of course vibrant and shows gliiter and details real well. Is there anything I can do to minimize or eliminate this? A friend suggested a release agent like Pam cooking spray? Ideas would be welcome Thanks and take care Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryno Plastics Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 I've had the same trouble in the past. Chris at Al's Worms told me this: Pre-Heat your oven to 350 degrees on "bake." Once heated place your molds on a cookie sheet and leave 'em in there for about 12-15 minutes MAX. If you leave 'em in there too long you'll ruin your molds...which I've done before ! This has worked the best for me. Now then, every once in a while I will get a mold that just won't produce a shiny bait. You just have to bite the bullet as crappy as that sounds. When you order several molds from LureCraft you'll get some great ones and some dull ones. It's just the luck of the draw in my opinion. Hope this works. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted July 4, 2003 Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 I've had the same problem with all Lurecraft molds. To solve the problem, I brush on an oily fish formula just before the pour (or you could spray the cavity with garlic Pam) and the lures come out much slicker. I wonder if Devcon epoxy would adhere to the silicone? Anyone try it? Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted July 4, 2003 Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 I wonder if Devcon epoxy would adhere to the silicone? Anyone try it? The only think that I can find that will stick to silicone, is more silicone. I know Devcon wont. heating it in an oven will bring the oils out, but its a limited process, once the oils are gone..... well.... I've been hearing good things about a product called "parfilm" its a professional mold release made for silicone molds. I've never used it, but professional moldmakers swear by it to "revive" old molds. I contacted the manufacturer for a suitable variety, as they make many types for different casting materials. What I've heard is that it soaks into the mold & replenishes the oils lost during time. I'd take Senkosam's advice on using an oily scent for now, That has worked for me. I'm gonna get a can of the parfilm, try it out & let ya know my findings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsworms Posted July 4, 2003 Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 Hey Senko Sam, You got my head spinnin' on this oil idea Got a couple questions for ya......... What type of formula do you apply? Does it last a few pours, or do you have to apply it each time? The reason I ask is.........if I get even the slightest bit of moisture in my molds, the baits turn out lookin' like crap. Just a drop of sweat will leave an indention in the back of the bait. One other thing I've noticed is sometimes it takes a few pours to bring the natural oils out of the mold. I bought a bunch of worm molds a few months ago; half of them had that dull finish. I have poured a dozen or so worms in each cavity, and they all seem to be shiny now. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted July 4, 2003 Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 Al, I use Gamefish Fish Formula and apply it every other pour with a cheap water-color brush to distribute evenly and as a thin film. Any oil would probably do if it was thin enough, even Walmart's Baitmate. FF is cheap, goes a long way and seems to impregnate into the surface of the hot plastic. It coats the Mod Podge gloss on my plaster molds also. All my pours are stored in the stuff in plastic bags to keep them oily. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsworms Posted July 4, 2003 Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 I have a fair share of molds to try it out on. Thanks for the info. Sam. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haebar Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 Some guy I bought some molds on ebay from said to paint them with polyurethane when they get rough. You may want to thin it so it doesn't obscure details in the mold. I have some that he did this way and they are smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 Just to clarify, you all are refering to silicone molds right. I recently bought some molds from John @ baitmolds.com and my pours are dull on the mold side. I guess I'll take the time to Devcon them but I'm convinced that aluminum and my own made molds are the way to go. PS Wait til ya'll see my new dinosaur/lizard... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haebar Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 These look more like plaster of paris molds, not silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe S. Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 I put scent in the mold before pouring to get the shine as well, I just spray scent in a cup and use a Q-tip to apply it to them. It works pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 Deep ridges (like in a large ring-grub) need some kind of worm release oil or the lure will tear. Mineral oil and baby oil also work, but if I use the latter, I'm not sure fish mind the fresh baby butt scent ! Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsworms Posted November 13, 2004 Report Share Posted November 13, 2004 I was talking about silicon. Never thought about oiling plaster. Always seemed to me like it would puddle. One thing I've learned about silicon is the worm oil gives the bait a nice shine, but you have to apply it evenly or your baits will have indentions on the back. Joe's idea about the q-tip is a great one! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
