Combining low and high density wood's on a big glider.

[Hoff]

Hello everyone, I'm a long time advice gatherer from this forum but only a short time member.

Some people may of seen this Marling Baits video using different hardness woods for a crank bait.
https://youtu.be/GS2sprnpb2M

I'd like to know if anyone has tried this with a glide bait?
Reason I ask is I think it would be a killer contrast on nudes plus save you a little money on ballast, not that the cash you save on lead will pay for the hard wood insert and extra work haha.
The woods I'll be using are Western Red Cedar or White Beech for the majority of the lure and then Gidgee for the ballast insert.

I may need to find another heavy wood until I get more Gidgee so I can start the build sooner. 

I'm thinking if I build my prototype and tank test it adding lead ballast to get my sink rate spot on, I could then insert that ballast in to the Gidgee insert prior to joining the woods, like a hidden ballast system on a nude lure. 

I look forward to sharing my progress and welcome any advice or feedback with open arms.

Also sorry about the crude looking illustration, I was finding it hard to get my thoughts across. 

Cheers,

Hoff.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 17, 2020 by Hoff

[mark poulson]

Hoff,

Your bait looks interesting.

I've laminated PVC decking to PVC trimboard in the past, but, for me, it wasn't worth the effort.

I hand shape all my baits, and, even though I get close, they all vary by the time I'm ready to add ballast to them.  For smaller cranks, it is possible to repeat a shape well enough to be able to use weighted belly hook hangers to get close, but I have trouble getting bigger baits that close.

I've found that I have to play around with my ballast too much after my bait is shaped, depending on the shape, to be able to incorporate the ballast before shaping. 

Please keep us informed as you build them.

 

[Hoff]

40 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

Hoff,

Your bait looks interesting.

I've laminated PVC decking to PVC trimboard in the past, but, for me, it wasn't worth the effort.

I hand shape all my baits, and, even though I get close, they all vary by the time I'm ready to add ballast to them.  For smaller cranks, it is possible to repeat a shape well enough to be able to use weighted belly hook hangers to get close, but I have trouble getting bigger baits that close.

I've found that I have to play around with my ballast too much after my bait is shaped, depending on the shape, to be able to incorporate the ballast before shaping. 

Please keep us informed as you build them.

 

Cheers for the reply Mark, 

I get where your coming from regarding making each bait identical enough to nail the ballast.
Fingers crossed I've put enough time in to templates that the only variable from bait to bait is the difference in each cut of wood.

Will definitely keep you guys up to date.

 

 

[Travis]

Lead is about 10 x greater than gidgee.  Essentially you are just adding more visual interest on a natural bait.  Weight as normal and plug for visual appeal.  The plug is going to add some weight but easy enough to do the calculations and adjust as needed.

Now many years ago 15 or more some on the site were building cranks from laminating two different density woods.  So in your case you could laminate the cedar or beech upper to bottom gidgee.   

 

 

[Anglinarcher]

I think the question was on combining multiple density woods, but lets expand that a little.

I use multiple density foams and synthetics on my lures often, and it works.  Like Mark suggest, it is often not worth the effort and increases the time (cost) of the lure in many cases.

For the most part, the laws of physics do not care how centers of balance or moments of inertia are created, they can be done in multiple ways.

I personally do not see an advantage in what you are doing for my work, but then again, new methods may create new ideas, and that in itself is worth the effort.

 

[Vodkaman]

Loved the video. Good personality, very entertaining with great skills. And, he followed up with water time. knowledge was shown in the conclusions regarding the weight distribution hampering the crank action, this all made perfect sense.

Personally I cannot work like this; hacking two pieces of wood together not knowing if they will float or sink. I would have to do numbers first, but that is just me.

Your plan is good, including some ballast adjusting options. I am sure you will have success.

Dave

[Hoff]

Many thanks for the reply's guy's, 

So true Dave, Marlings quirky personality makes him very easy to watch but I think he's much smarter than he lets on. 
Cheers for all the feedback and I guess its just time at the workbench that matters now.  

I should have a couple progress shot's before long.  

[BobP]

I understand experimenting to pass the time, seek better understanding of materials and procedures, or whatever.  But I agree with Anglinarcher. It probably won’t result in a better bait than simply using one body material.  Experience taught me that keeping things simple while building a bait results in fewer problems, less variability, and baits that work and catch fish.better.  Just my opinion.

[Big Epp]

I love the idea of a hidden ballast.  Natural baits look so nice, especially if there's an interesting grain pattern, so having a way to hide the lead while adding visual appeal is really clever.