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Basic supplies needed for airbrushing? Recommendations?

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Hey there- I want to start airbrushing my own hard baits (crankbaits, etc.). I know there are a thousand things I can get, but as I'm just dipping my foot in the proverbial paint, what are the basic supplies I need, and are there any brands/specific equipment that I should consider? I don't want to buy crap that I'm just going to have to replace as I dive deeper.

 

Thanks for humoring a newbie!

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I would recommend not going cheap.  You don't have to buy the high end stuff but no need to mess with problem products upfront.

In regards to paints just start out with Createx.  Readily available and designed for airbrushes and common at Hobby Lobby and other similar craft stores.  No need to thin, no need to strain, no need to do a lot of stuff as it just works.  

For an airbrush I would go with something like the Iwata Neo CN dual gravity feed brush.  Just a decent starter brush from a company that makes solid products.  

Compressor with water trap.  If you don't have one and are just starting out I would recommend either getting a pancake compressor nail gun kit as something every homeowner should likely have.  They are typically loud but get the job done.  I started and still use a Craftsman set up at times but mainly switched over to a small California Air Quiet flow 4710 model and very quiet in regards to compressors, light weight, and a joy to use.  I also have a Fusion 1000 airbrush compressor that is very portable, small, and quiet but only bought it because on clearance for 25 bucks but also are normally in the same price range as the compressors above (less CFM however).

 

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Sounds like lots of great advice already! It is a fun hobby for sure.   I use a Badger Patriot 105 airbrush and I really like it.  It is a bit less expensive than some of the other options I think.   The Iwata Eclipse hp-cs I believe is the gold standard of airbrushes for lures.   I completely agree with Travis, when you are starting buy acrylic based airbrush specific paints.  It takes the problematic issues of diluting cheap paints to try to make them work.  createx - createx wicked - testors aztek paint - golden hi-flow   There are a number of quality choices, I have a mix and match of the ones that I like.    

Airbrush specific cleaner and reducer when you start off as well probably helps eliminate problems.  SOME of the paints seem to need reducing, especially if you are trying for fine details.  createx 4012 works for me for thinning paint, and It lasts a very long time (for me anyway).  

 

Welcome here, tons of great topics covered in the past. My best advice is just practice practice practice!  It is fun.  Get a color wheel and learn what works together.  Lots of little things you will collect as you dive into it.  Keep an eye out for cool looking scale mesh at grocery stores.  Make your own stencils to start, you can order cool looking stencils online as well now.   I could keep going.  Good luck!

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59 minutes ago, eastman03 said:

 The Iwata Eclipse hp-cs I believe is the gold standard of airbrushes for lures.  

Have been using the Eclipse HP-SBS Autographic brush for many years and no complaints at all in respect to a do it all type of brush.  Used a lot cheaper brushes for many years also and they worked fine just had to figure out how to make them work.   

If there is a price range you want to stay in that might help change selections.  I based my initial answer off about the cheapest way to go that absolutely will work and last.

Edited by Travis
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Agree with much of the above - all good advice... might want to make sure you start with a .5mm tip in any airbrush you buy.  If you look on Createx site (Createx are the paints I use as well) and dig around enough will find a tip size / paint type recommendations.   There transparents can use a smaller tip (.3mm) but most of the other "standard" paints with pearls, etc. they recommend a (.5mm) tip for spraying.   Ideally - you'd either have both tips or two airbrushes.... I use an older Paasche with a .5mm tip for the big broad strokes of paint.... and then an Iwata with a .3mm tip for transparent and small/light details. 

But if I could only have 1.... I'd have a brush with the .5mm tip as you can always dial down pressure and mask for details - where you cant force thicker paints through a small tip very easily.

  J.

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Very good point slowFISH.  My badger patriot came default with a .5mm tip and it is a good all around workhorse.  It does ok for smallish details.  It handles basically all the paints just fine.  I bought the extra fine conversion kit I think Badger calls it, which is a .3mm tip and nozzle.  I really like the .3mm once I get to fins and gill details and that stuff.  The paint needs to be a bit thinner, but you can get finer lines.   The .5mm worked for me on it's own for quite a long time. 

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4 hours ago, eastman03 said:

Very good point slowFISH.  My badger patriot came default with a .5mm tip and it is a good all around workhorse.  It does ok for smallish details.  It handles basically all the paints just fine.  I bought the extra fine conversion kit I think Badger calls it, which is a .3mm tip and nozzle.  I really like the .3mm once I get to fins and gill details and that stuff.  The paint needs to be a bit thinner, but you can get finer lines.   The .5mm worked for me on it's own for quite a long time. 

Totally agree... I find myself doing 80-90 percent of work with my 30 year old Paasche airbrush and just those last fine details with the other fine tip airbrush - which I could probably do with the paasche as I'm not one of those super talented free hand airbrush guys - so I mask a ton!!!!

On that note - Post-its can be your friend.... I cut holes, lines ,etc into those things in the "glue area" then use them as masks by sticking them on the bait and spray away.... that light tack is perfect for a lot of things!!

  J.

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Having just gone through all of this myself, I got an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with a Paasche compressor with a small tank.  If I had it to do over again, I'd get one with a bigger tank.  I find quite a bit of moisture with the smaller tank, and the compressor seems to run pretty frequently.

I'm using all Createx paints.  Wicked, regular, irridescent, flourescent - all Createx.  There are some deals available out there, be sure to shop around.

I chose to go this route because of reading about lots of problems with people starting with inexpensive equipment and getting frustrated.  I wanted things to work correctly, and be as trouble-free as possible.  I feel I have achieved that goal, now it's all about increasing my skill.

 

Other supplies you may want: 

A sprayout pot that doubles as an airbrush holder.

A set of cleaning tools (some airbrush pots come as part of a kit that includes these).

Paper or plastic cups to mix paints in.  If using paper, make SURE that there is no coating in the cups (some paper cups have a wax coating).  If you're not sure, fill the cup with boiling water.  If anything floats to the top, or you see any colors or a film, do not use that brand/type of cup.

Paintbrushes to clean the cup of the airbrush.  I use disposable 1/8" rodbuilding brushes.

Thinner, usually from the same brand as your paints.  I have a large bottle of Createx 4011.

Airbrush cleaner.

Edited by exx1976
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