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Cliff

Foam Tip

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I've been messing around with foam lures for quite awhile and have never been able to get a really good surface. Pinholes,goofy surface problems,ect... I broke down and tried something I heard from a taxidermist a long time ago and was amazed with the difference ! Waxed a fiberglass mold with liquid car wax, let it haze and buffed out then sprayed a coat of Evercoat PVA with the Paasche VL at high pressure. The cast came out like glass, not a single pinhole! Releases great too! The real key with it is to let the PVA completely dry. The flawless casts were after drying PVA in mold with heatlamp 18" away for 30min.The PVA washes of easily with warm water after casting is cured. Still haven't replaced my digital camera to show pics. Tried it on a bondo mold with same results. Gonna try it on one of my old urethane molds this week to see what it does. This may solve the featherlight pinhole problems too, but I'm out of it and may not get anymore for awhile to try it out. It's not the quickest mold release to use because of the drying time, but the finish is unreal. I've been using the Mann's 1700 designed for foam with ok results, but the PVA has it beat by a long shot. I got the PVA at West Marine locally. Also found out something interesting about the foams this week. I guess the somebody stepped in and made the foam companies change chemistry of foam from "freon blown" to "water blown". Not sure exactly what that means, but I guess the outer skin on the foam is now thinner with the "water blown". I knew I used to get a thicker skin! Cliff

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I've been messing around with foam lures for quite awhile and have never been able to get a really good surface. Pinholes,goofy surface problems,ect... I broke down and tried something I heard from a taxidermist a long time ago and was amazed with the difference ! Waxed a fiberglass mold with liquid car wax, let it haze and buffed out then sprayed a coat of Evercoat PVA with the Paasche VL at high pressure. The cast came out like glass, not a single pinhole! Releases great too! The real key with it is to let the PVA completely dry. The flawless casts were after drying PVA in mold with heatlamp 18" away for 30min.The PVA washes of easily with warm water after casting is cured. Still haven't replaced my digital camera to show pics. Tried it on a bondo mold with same results. Gonna try it on one of my old urethane molds this week to see what it does. This may solve the featherlight pinhole problems too, but I'm out of it and may not get anymore for awhile to try it out. It's not the quickest mold release to use because of the drying time, but the finish is unreal. I've been using the Mann's 1700 designed for foam with ok results, but the PVA has it beat by a long shot. I got the PVA at West Marine locally. Also found out something interesting about the foams this week. I guess the somebody stepped in and made the foam companies change chemistry of foam from "freon blown" to "water blown". Not sure exactly what that means, but I guess the outer skin on the foam is now thinner with the "water blown". I knew I used to get a thicker skin! Cliff

Just a couple of quick queries:

What is PVA? :oops:

Do you have to reapply the wax everytime you cast or can you just reapply the PVA?

Do you use talc, like we do with standard mold releases?

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Don't remember what the PVA stands for (Poly Vinyl Achohol or something like that??) The fiberglassers have used it forever. The Evercoat model is 5685 and says "Evercoat Mold Release" on front of bottle. Haven't tried it without the wax yet. I know some of the actual mold waxes claim you don't have to use it every cast. I have been just because I'm not sure about the liquid autowax and don't won't to lose a mold. I've read PVA can be used alone but not sure about fiberglass/bondo molds. No baby powder needed ,so you lose that baby fresh scent to your shop !! 8oz. bottle was around $13 at West Marine. Bottle says 8oz will cover 20s.f. Everybody have a nice Thanksgiving. Cliff

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