Core Shot Swimbait

[Tiderunner]

Adding a few new molds for winter pouring. So far added a cut tail worm mold, a craw mold, next up a core shot senko mold. I want to add swimbait mold next, but what I'm looking for a I can't find.

Looking for a 3.5"-4"  core shot swimbait mold. Anyone know of any manufacturers of that type of mold?

[wavejim]

I just use the Do-it Senko molds for core shots.  They aren't perfect, like a good CNC aluminum mold,  but they work well.  Just cut up some 1/8 rod to fit the cavities and keep the mold warm between the first and second injections. Their ned mold also works well for core shots.

Edited December 14, 2020 by wavejim

[Tiderunner]

Wouldn't you have to cut a 1/8" groove in the mold at each end to let air out, and to keep the rod centered?

[wavejim]

15 minutes ago, Tiderunner said:

Wouldn't you have to cut a 1/8" groove in the mold at each end to let air out, and to keep the rod centered?

No.  I use rod cut to the same length as the mold cavity.  Yes centering is not the best.

I forgot to mention that you can do the same with their Ripper swim bait molds.

[Bass-Boys]

The stick bait mold would center the rod on its own way better than a swim bait mold ( without slots for the rod ).

 I feel a core shot swim bait mold would be way more cool than a stick bait with core shot .

[SlowFISH]

I've watched a few youtube videos of guys using rods in senko molds / swimbaits to shoot core shots... got a couple questions....

1.   On some of the videos - it looks like the cavity created with the rod is NOT vented - meaning - once the rod is removed - it's just a pocket.... how does the second shot of plastic flow in if there isn't a vent to let the air in the cavity escape?  Some of the molds I've seen designed for coreshots - core all the way through the bait - so the second shot flows completely thru it - but like I said - in some of these videos with people using the standard do-it senko mold and some rods - it looks like it's just a cavity with no backside vent.... am I missing something ?  Can you actually fill the cavity with no backside vent? Maybe there is a hole I'm just not seeing?

2.  I was planning to use some 1/8" rod since that seems to be common for those that have made their own.... anyone use anything thinner in diameter?  I have a few really small baits Id like to try core shots on... but don't wanna cut up the mold to hold the rod if there is no way to shoot a second color thru a 3/32 or 1/16 core... safe to assume it's a balance of venting (more better) and hotter plastic to make it work?

Thanks!

J.

[Tiderunner]

While I don't know about shooting smaller cores, I do see in those videos, that once the original bait is injected with the rods in place, the bait is removed, and the tail cut off. That creates the vent that you're looking for. If you notice in the videos the tails are the same color as the injected core.

At least that's what it seems to be in the videos I saw.

[SlowFISH]

18 hours ago, Tiderunner said:

While I don't know about shooting smaller cores, I do see in those videos, that once the original bait is injected with the rods in place, the bait is removed, and the tail cut off. That creates the vent that you're looking for. If you notice in the videos the tails are the same color as the injected core.

At least that's what it seems to be in the videos I saw.

I agree - trim the tail a hair.

I went back and looked a bit more... thinking what's actually happening in some of these videos - is the rods aren't really centered (just placed in the mold) and there is a tiny hole created where the rod touches the mold on the back.... so looks like a pocket - but it's offset and probably a small hole is made that they aren't mentioning nor cutting off the tail.

J.

[Tiderunner]

OK so the bug has me.I want to try this! Where do I get 1/8 inch rods?

[Apdriver]

I get small quantities of metal rods, all thread, flat, square different stock at my local Lowe’s. Brass can be had at any good hobby shop if you have one around. Nothing special about the rods. Cut to length and chamfer the ends.

[Tiderunner]

12 hours ago, Apdriver said:

I get small quantities of metal rods, all thread, flat, square different stock at my local Lowe’s. Brass can be had at any good hobby shop if you have one around. Nothing special about the rods. Cut to length and chamfer the ends.

Found a supplier not too far from my home that sell stainless steel round rods. Cut to whatever length you need.

I ordered 6- 12" long 1/8' diameter rods that I can cut to fit. Price was negligible.

[SlowFISH]

While I haven't done "core shots" - I have used rods / metal inserts to make air-pockets in baits.... HIGHLY recommend taking an hour and polish whatever metal you chose to use.... yes - oil helps as almost every video shows... but polishing adds a considerable amount of "slipperiness" - I was shocked how much easier I was able to remove the inserts I use after I polished a few.

And as APdriver mentioned - you can pretty much use any metal... although brass does tend to bend a little easier on small diameters (less than 1/8") if you accidently drop it or are really rough with it.

J.

 

[Tiderunner]

Got my stainless rods delivered the next day. Help when the supplier is only about 20 miles away. Skipped dinner and went right to work. Had 12" rods cut each to size. Mixed some plastic to play with. Coated the rods with pure silicone lube. Heated, poured my first ones, and was immediately disappointed.

I poured some medium plastic from the bottom of the bottle and for some reason, they came out gooey. NO hard pack, no plastic left. Can't quite figure that out.rod didn't center right, color cols blew through the side of a senko. Called it a night after that

Tried again today. Big improvement! Had some Medium stretchy plastic, added glitter and went at it.

Come out pretty ok with the MF medium stretchy. Clear outside silver glitter, and a purplish core.

Cuz you can center the rod, but it made a nice line through the senko.  Rod didn't need any polishing. The pure silicone is wicked slippery. I use it to lube my injector.

 

There is going to be a learning curve I can see that. BUT! The rods with shipping and tax was $14 vs $145 for  a true core shot mold.

One issue with my mold, it's a CNC mold, not a cheapo, and it has one port for shooting on top, while to baits shoot perpendicular to that. Had the baits been in line with the injection port, all would have been right with the world.

[Tiderunner]

Update on learning curve.

Cut the stainless rods a bit short so as not to interfere with the injection port. Made one a bit longer to see if that actually would happen. It doesn't. Actually makes a better bait. Will order more stainless rods, and cut them longer.
also on my learning curve. Removing the stainless rods is a *%^$ if you forget to lube them. Note to self

Remember to lube the rods.