fishordie79 Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 Hey TU Folks! I saw in a thread where @mark poulson was talking about using, I think it was nail polish (please correct me if I got that wrong) as a hook rash prevention method. I saw in another thread where @exx1976 was talking about some sort of tubing material being placed on hooks points to prevent hook rash during transport. This may be a dumb question because I can't think of how this might work but does anyone know a good method for preventing hook rash during normal use of a bait? Some kind of topical solution that doesn't ruin the topcoat? I feel silly asking this but you never know. There may be a gem of a solution buried in one of your brains somewhere:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 Hook points will wear through D2T eventually. D2T is one of the hardest and thickest topcoats out there. The only real solution I have found is to minimize the hook points scraping against the the lure. I will sometimes use nail polish or thinned epoxy to fill in a hook rash groove. That only extends the longevity some. Best to do that before it gets through to the paint. I have been switching over to T-type trebles (Owner St-35, Decoy T trebles) for belly mounted hooks. Those type of hooks reduce hook rash. When you put the hook on, make sure the flat side is against the lure. You can bend some trebles into a T with pliers. Some trebles like Owner St-36 are too stiff to bend and will break if attempted. So, be careful when attempting to do this (gloves, safety glasses). KVD triple grip trebles also reduce hook rash a little as the points are tipped in towards the shank a bit. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 46 minutes ago, JD_mudbug said: Hook points will wear through D2T eventually. D2T is one of the hardest and thickest topcoats out there. The only real solution I have found is to minimize the hook points scraping against the the lure. I will sometimes use nail polish or thinned epoxy to fill in a hook rash groove. That only extends the longevity some. Best to do that before it gets through to the paint. I have been switching over to T-type trebles (Owner St-35, Decoy T trebles) for belly mounted hooks. Those type of hooks reduce hook rash. When you put the hook on, make sure the flat side is against the lure. You can bend some trebles into a T with pliers. Some trebles like Owner St-36 are too stiff to bend and will break if attempted. So, be careful when attempting to do this (gloves, safety glasses). KVD triple grip trebles also reduce hook rash a little as the points are tipped in towards the shank a bit. These will cut way down on hook rash. I used to T my trebles like that, but it weakened them, especially the smaller sized trebles, so I stopped. Nail polish will toughen any top coat, and is good for quite a few trips, plus it's easy to recoat if it does get dinged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exx1976 Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 3 hours ago, JD_mudbug said: Hook points will wear through D2T eventually. D2T is one of the hardest and thickest topcoats out there. The only real solution I have found is to minimize the hook points scraping against the the lure. I will sometimes use nail polish or thinned epoxy to fill in a hook rash groove. That only extends the longevity some. Best to do that before it gets through to the paint. I have been switching over to T-type trebles (Owner St-35, Decoy T trebles) for belly mounted hooks. Those type of hooks reduce hook rash. When you put the hook on, make sure the flat side is against the lure. You can bend some trebles into a T with pliers. Some trebles like Owner St-36 are too stiff to bend and will break if attempted. So, be careful when attempting to do this (gloves, safety glasses). KVD triple grip trebles also reduce hook rash a little as the points are tipped in towards the shank a bit. It does not appear that the Owners or the Decoys are available in useful sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 The Owner ST35 come in size 6 up to 2/0 at TW which fit a good range of baits. The ST35 in 2/0 are bit bit bigger than other 2/0 hooks I have. The 2/0 is really somewhere between a 2/0 and 3/0. I think the Decoy T-S21 come in sizes 8 to 1/0 but they can be hard to find. They used to make up to 3/0 but I haven't seen any 2/0 or 3/0 in a while. I knew someone who used to travel to Japan who was able to get them for me. Mustad short shank KVDs EWG come in sizes up to 3/0. The Mustad 3X Triple grip go up to 7/0. Proberos 35647 trebles come in 8 to 3/0 (and maybe larger sizes) but you have to T them with pliers. Even though it may weaken them some, I have not had any failures in 1/0, 2/0 or 3/0. They are cheap. I have only made a few baits that needed a 4/0 or 5/0. It looks like I used bronze Mustads or VMCs that I T'eed in a vice. I usually only put the T hooks on the belly (or on the back if the lure has hooks on top). I use a regular treble for the tail hook. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishordie79 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Thank you everyone for the suggestions! I'll see if I can find the T trebles over here and implement those and the nail polish solution and see how it goes. I figured you guys would come through with some solutions. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exx1976 Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 11 hours ago, JD_mudbug said: The Owner ST35 come in size 6 up to 2/0 at TW which fit a good range of baits. The ST35 in 2/0 are bit bit bigger than other 2/0 hooks I have. The 2/0 is really somewhere between a 2/0 and 3/0. I think the Decoy T-S21 come in sizes 8 to 1/0 but they can be hard to find. They used to make up to 3/0 but I haven't seen any 2/0 or 3/0 in a while. I knew someone who used to travel to Japan who was able to get them for me. Mustad short shank KVDs EWG come in sizes up to 3/0. The Mustad 3X Triple grip go up to 7/0. Proberos 35647 trebles come in 8 to 3/0 (and maybe larger sizes) but you have to T them with pliers. Even though it may weaken them some, I have not had any failures in 1/0, 2/0 or 3/0. They are cheap. I have only made a few baits that needed a 4/0 or 5/0. It looks like I used bronze Mustads or VMCs that I T'eed in a vice. I usually only put the T hooks on the belly (or on the back if the lure has hooks on top). I use a regular treble for the tail hook. Yeah, apologies. I seem to forget that there are folks here making smaller baits as well. I don't use anything smaller than a 3/0, and when I step up to 11 or 12" baits, I'll likely go up to a 4/0 or 5/0. The KVD triple grip do go up to 7/0, indeed, but I just can't see my way to paying that much for hooks for lures that will be for sale. They are like 4-5 times the price of a 35656. I do like them for lures that are for my personal use, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted January 8, 2021 Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 You could also try double hooks on the belly like a Mustad 7982 or 7825. Owner and Gamakatsu make a double hook too. It seems like they would cause very little if any rash. I have seen them in sizes up to 5/0. I don't think heavy musky rings like Wolverines or Rasco XH or XXH would slide out. But if it looks like they might, you could use a piece of heat shrink tube on the shank. I have not tried them yet on hard baits. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...