Help with spinner bait wire shape

[LaPala]

Hi guys, I'm "new" here (I seldom make wirebaits, crank is more my game ) so I need help, hell I need help with cranks too

Anyway, I want to try & make a spinner-bait like the one in this link: http://www5b.biglobe.ne.jp/~f-sense/screwpea.htm. After searching & reading the post here I think Im comfortable with mold. lead melting & wire-bending but I couldn't find much about the shape of the wire itself so here goes the questions:

1. The sort of V shape form of the arms of a spinner-bait, does it need a specific angle/spread? & what determines it?

2. Why is that there is a secondary bend on the blade arm? what's the purpose of it? (I imagine going straight up would reach the same position needed)

3. Can the upperr arm just come straight off the front of the body? Or the lower arm has to be there to provide assistance for the blade to be pulled over snags or some other reasons?

4. Which is a better line-tie? The R type or a complete loop?

That's the lot (a lot) for now I think I'm really green in making wirebaits. Thanks guys (girls too. However, I kinda get the impression that it's all man in this forum. Anyone knows if there are any in TU? ; )

[Markell]

I have had this bait in my mind since you posted the link in the chat room. It looks to be a very small spinner type bait. But very heavy. 1 to 2 oz? It would be a good deep water bait.

1) I don't think that the angles are set in stone. As a general starting point, I would center the line tie. (Between the blade and the body).

2) Straight up should work fine. The extra bend makes for a more compact bait. (Shortning the length from the blade to the body).

3) Not exactly sure what you are asking. If you did away with the line tie and had the upper arm coming out of the body and had the line tie at this point as well, I would guess the bait would roll. The overall "V" shape balances out the bait and keeps it up right. In my mind, the bait will be slow rolled along the bottom. You want it to drag over snags. and the angled front would do this well.

4) I like the "R" bends. This is really a non issue.

It looks like they used a 90 degree EWG light wire jig hook.

When you get it done, send it to me and I will test it! LOL

[LaPala]

Thank for the advise Markell. I get on with carving my body first then . Then I'll have to fiddle with mold making & pouring lead.... None of it my forte though If you wanna wait for mine to be finished, maybe you would've pour thousands of yours by then.

[Markell]

This has been added to my list of things to tinker with. Making the mold would be the challenge for me. I have 6 jig head designs I am working with now and if all goes well, I will play with some spinner designs later. Keep us posted. This should be a fun project for you. Who knows, maybe we will see your name on a lead bait swap list!

[weighinalimit]

I don't want to upset you lapala, but that thing is a waste of time. First, it will be a poor "hooker" due to the general design, and if you did get a decent fish on it would destroy the bait in moments. the hook is too far back, an offset bend wormhook to boot(inherently weak at 90 degree bend) the small blade is where no blade should be put, the wire angle exiting the head is too steep by about 7 to 10 degrees. If you change the bait some it could be good though, use a xtra long shank hook straight out the rear of body, either use an embedded swivel ala "roadrunner head" under the body or put an eyelet 2/3 back on bottom of bait and put blade & swivel on a sevenstrand leader long enough to clear the rear of the hook, the wire exiting the head should be from 45 to 70 degrees from horizontal with the line loop bend on a horizontal plane with the hook point to get best hooksetting power, and the angle from bottom wire to top wire can be anywhere from 90 down to about 50 degrees. If you make the bottom arm 1/2 the top arms length you'll be pretty close.

Good luck!

[LaPala]

I'm cool WeightinaLimit. Better know it now than after I've made the mold, cast & made it & find it doesn't work. I'm happy you chip in, I'm real green with all these wire stuff.

Here's some other questions, didn't have time to ask u in chat:

1. What's a roadrunner head?

2. I was thinking of making the back hook live, not molded into lead, is that what you meant (maybe even a double hook facing upwards)?

Thanks man

[weighinalimit]

A roadrunner is a jig w/ ahead shaped kinda like an L laying down w/ the short leg pointed down, has a swivel in snout w/ blade attached. Do-it calls them horsehead jigs. You could make the hook a "live" attachment, but unless you're fishing it in snag-free areas, I'd suggest you don't. There's a spinnerbait made in Okla. called the H&H, it uses a free moving double hook & will get hung up if you cast within 5 feet of a snag! works OK for waking or burning it along bluff walls and stuff, but otherwise it's sad, you tie two on for each cast so maybe one makes it back to the boat. That's a great buzzbait set-up though, I use the exact same thing unless I'm in brush or weeds, helps hook up ratio ALOT!

[LaPala]

Gotcha Weightinalimit:

Google & found the Blackmore roadrunner jighead in Cabela, and wow it's a whole new world out there regarding jigs. Maybe I should've paid more attention to these stuff b4. Over here jigs & SPs are just starting to get popular & all I can see in the market are roundhead jigs. If the market size is bigger, I'd say it's a gold mine to be tapped here As it is, maybe there's some $$ here too b4 it gets saturate.

(Sorry for this blurp, been having $$ eyes since I started "lusting" for a Proxxon Scroll Saw )

Thanks for info, I'm getting a better picture of how to to go about making a spinnerbait. BTW we call spinnerbaits Hu-Sou-Lou (Bearded man)