To taper or not to taper...that is my question.

[Big Epp]

I'm working on some larger baits (18.5cm / 7.25in).  I'm thinking of using this shape for both a lipped and un-lipped bait.  Crankbait/Glider I suppose.  I'm thinking about using a router with a round-over bit to do the edges.  Do you think it is necessary to taper the body towards the head and tail in order for these lures to work?  Will a glider glide if it's not tapered, and will a crankbait waggle (wiggle?) if not tapered?

[eastman03]

I like the look of a tapered bait like the one on the left.  As far as action on a crankbait, I don't *think* it would change much.  Lots of flat sided cranks out there.  Way way way easier to router and build the flat sided one.  Which is why that is the choice for lots of lure builders I would imagine.  

As far as a glider, I have much less experience.  Hellhounds are pretty much flat sided, as well as phantoms, so I could see it that shape working for either one.  

[Hillbilly voodoo]

Not experienced enough with gliders to give much advice here

But crankbaits it is not necessary to taper. I have designs that have minimal taper to give a wide belly profile. I also use a wide belly combined with a curve to generate lift in the tail to achieve a wider wiggle. I started working with designs that are wider than tall and have been getting a good response from pike/lake trout 

Messing with body shape can change action more then people realize. You can use it to achieve different things combined with different lips 

[Anglinarcher]

Gliders will glide better if tapered, better as in farther.  The more torpedo shaped the better in that respect.  A lipped crank bait can be either, but as Hillbilly said, shape can and will change action (some better and some worse).

[JD_mudbug]

I agree with the 3 posts above. I think the taper looks better.

I also like the taper because it gives the tail hook a lot more clearance for hookups. 

[Big Epp]

Followup question... What size hooks would you use on these?  They are 7.25" long and a bit over 1" thick.  I'm gearing them towards muskie/pike/basszilla.  I used .062" stainless wire for a wire harness.

[Hillbilly voodoo]

Personally I try to avoid using more then 2 trebles and go with larger hooks instead. Plus they are stronger and less likely to break

personally I set my hook hangers wear I believe will achieve the best hook up ratio and balance of the lure. After that it’s a matter of making sure they won’t tangle so I choose a size that at the closest just touches when they are flipped towards each other. I also don’t like more than a 3/4inch gap between the hooks when they are flipped towards each other with my pike lures. This is to be sure I have good hook up ratios. I am also a fan of wide gap hooks 

So I can’t really recommend a size exactly but I will guess 4/0s would be worth checking to see if they meet the requirements I listed above 

[exx1976]

IMO, it depends on what hooks you're planning to use.  I like the Mustad 35656.  It is stronger, and larger, than typical trebles that are sized larger on the package (For example, the 3/0 35656 is larger than a standard Mustad 4/0).  It also has a shorter shank, which not only helps to increase strength, but prevents tangles when using multiple hooks on a lure.

My minnowbait is ~7.75" and is using 3 hooks.  Also, .062 sounds nice, but I think is overkill.  Bucktail/spinnerbaits are built using .051 - and the only supporting feature is the wire - straight from one end to the other.  You might try that to both save some effort, and some money.