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Poured my first lures today! Questions...

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Hi, all...

I've been lurking for a few weeks and finally ordered an M-F kit to try pouring my own soft plastics. They sent me their Curly-tailed worm mold and a free split-tail worm mold, which was nice of them. They also sent a pint of the M-F plastisol. So today I set up a space in the basement, rigged up an exhaust fan, set up a small microwave, bought a Pyrex measuring cup and a metal skewer as a stirrer, and went at it! Here's what I learned.

1. Don't stir too fast; it makes bubbles.

2. Some smoke is normal.

3. Heat in 30 second increments and stir in between.

4. It takes 10 times as long to trim flash as it does to avoid it in the first place.

5. Plastisol shrinks as it cools, leaving slightly sunken areas on the portion of the worm open to the air, even when you fill the mold so that it "mounds".

Everything went surprisingly smoothly except the following. Any advice or comments are appreciated.

1. I poured directly from the Pyrex measuring cup, and the plastic seemed to cool in the cup as I poured. In other words, if I was trying to pour slowly to fill a tail in the worm, the plastic would harden along the side of the cup and I would have to tilt the cup more to have hotter plastic flow over the plastic that had already hardened. This was in spite of the fact that the plastic was smoking while I'm pouring. Doesn't that indicate it's hot enough? I don't have a candy thermometer but I may buy one if it'll help.

2. I wanted to "drizzle" the plastic into the mold to give me control for thin sections, but it seemed to harden too fast as I poured, preventing me from doing that. Plus it seemed too thick to drizzle. Again, not hot enough?

3. The plastic sometimes hardened so fast that I could only pour one worm before reheating... hmmm, I'm coming back to not hot enough again, huh?

4. I've read the posts about the Calhoun plastic; is that a better choice for my issues above when I'm ready to order more plastic?

Everything else went well... it seems to me it would be a lot easier to pour a two piece mold, and would require a lot less technique. I would post some pictures, but they look like completely normal purple plastic worms, which is rather surprising in itself!

Any comments are appreciated.

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I poured from pots for a long while both for sr and for myself (of coarse i liked his nice expensive pots more) and now im back to pyrex and i too am having problems keeping my Calhorn thin. I know it is hitting right temp though, Some of these guys use heat pads to keep plastic warm but im getting like 1 swimbait then i gotta reheat. Any help you guys?

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Youre using the best plastic. I've always preferred M-F super soft to any other brand available...and Ive tried them all.

I know a lot of the folks here pour worms using a microwave and a pyrex cup. If you really want to get serious with this hobby, buy a minimum of (2) Lee production pots. I believe the pots really simplify the process.

I have a couple of friends that wanted to start pouring but did not want to make the initial investment of the pots. After experiencing the same problems you just outlined, nearly verbatim...they gave it up.

Just an opinion.

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Al,

No, I'm not using any softener... I didn't think it was necessary for a typical plastic worm. I expected to need it with a stick-bait. Won't it cause the worm to tear more easily?

Rob,

Regarding the production pots, I've read repeatedly where people have trouble with flakes and salt when using the production pots. Has this not been your experience?

Thanks for your comments, guys...

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With all due respect to Rob up there I think Calhoun is the best plastic on the market, and I to have tried them all. You can heat Calhoun up hotter without in burning to it does pour better . But all freshwater plastic baits should have softener in them more for salt baits and less for non salt. for my non-salt baits I use about 2 tsp. in a cup of plastic. Without any softener the bait doesn't have much action.

Pyrex cups do cool the plastic on the sides of the cup bad, it's normal. metal pouring pans seam to hold the heat better but they are a pain to keep hot on a burner without scorching it.

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Charlie:

Definitely go down to a 1 cup!!! I used a 2 cup in the beginning and could not pour more than 1 or 2 worms between heats. If you get a 1 cup and use 4oz, you'll get liquid plastic.

Chris had a great point about the softener..I use it on all my worms, just add more on the sticks and I have noticed I can pour way more between the pours. I use calhouns...M-F may be different..

Keep at it :) !!!

Jim

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Definitely go down to a 1 cup!!! I used a 2 cup in the beginning and could not pour more than 1 or 2 worms between heats. If you get a 1 cup and use 4oz, you'll get liquid plastic.

OK, tomorrow AM I'll go out and buy a one cup Pyrex measuring cup.

Chris had a great point about the softener..I use it on all my worms, just add more on the sticks and I have noticed I can pour way more between the pours. I use calhouns...M-F may be different..

Can you use the same softener on M-F and Calhouns, or do you need to order specific softener to match the plastic brand?

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In my opinion, you don't need softener with MF (super soft formula), but you do with Calhoun.

The good thing about Calhoun is it's a very strong plastic, can handle the softener well, and the bait remains durable.

Pour a softened Calhoun bait and try tearing it. You have to work pretty hard to do it.

I'll take a super soft over a mass-produced bait any day.

Just my opinion.

Chris

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I have mixed other brands of softeners/plastics without any problems. Just stay away from 3-G softener......and their plastic for that matter.

Thanks for the advice... the M-F I'm using seems awfully soft... certainly as soft as the Culprit worms I'm so fond of using. I'm going to try Calhoun next but I'll also buy their softener and try it with both the Calhoun and the M-F plastics.

I've pretty much decided to buy an aluminum 5" stick bait mold. My only problem is I'd really like to buy it from Del-Mar, as they have all the Calhoun plastics, but they don't seem to have a stick bait mold with an egg sack. For some reason I'm convinced the bass prefer the egg sack. Am I missing it in their on-line catalog? I notice that Bob's Tackle sells one with the egg sack...

http://www.bobstackleshack.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=59

but then it's two separate orders and two separate shipping charges...

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In a recent discussion, Del stated:

I dont get much requests for the ones that look just like the senkos( ie with the egg sack) so if your wanting ones with eggsacks just leave me a note if you purchase them. they are the same price as ones with egg sack and with out eggsack.

Hope this helps!

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Softener seems to dilute the plastic and thin it a bit. The worms still aren't flimsy after using it, but a good point was made about improving the baits action. Softener does three things:

1. makes pouring easier

2. makes bait munchably soft (a prime reason soft baits are held onto over any hard bait)

3. greatly improves action and flex versus the hardness of the original Creme worm. Try wacky rigging a 5" worm with no softener and one with.

Fill a bucket with water and let the worm fall, twitching slightly on the way down. There is a world of difference! Salted worms require softener even more or the action will rival that of a popsickle stick!

A large 2 cup Pyrex is alright for multiple pours as long as:

1. The cup is at least half full because the glass will be hot with that much hot plastic in it.

2. The temp is at least 275-300 and pours like thick cough syrup.

3. The plastic is allowed to settle a bit to make sure the temp is uniform from the container sides to the center of the plastic. One more stir and then raising the metal stirrer to see consistency, is in order just before the main pour.

Zap time to reheat is only 20 seconds or less, again with a quick stir-and-check. Plastic should not smoke nearly as much as LC's, initially or when reheated.

Bubbles are sometimes unavoidable due to humidity and settling may be necessary to stir the bubbles out (unless you want a higher floatation for C-rigged baits). Bubbles will rise to the surface and can be poured off.

A lot of good replies and tips!

Sam

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Wow! What a difference! I bought a couple of one cup Pyrex cups and heated the plastic further... around 300 degrees according to the thermometer. Pouring was much easier to control (which is not to say I still didn't overpour some) and I was able to pour 4 worms before it cooled off too much. Difference is night and day...

Thanks to everyone for all the helpful suggestions...

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