Scroll saw help

[Thiskidlikes2fish]

I just recently got a scroll saw and discovered a problem.I could not find a blade thick enough to cut my lip slot for my circuit board.Making 2 cuts for the lip is too wide.I have been using a jig saw in the past with a 1mm or slightly under 1/16in which fit the lip perfect.Any help with how to get the lip to fit is welcome:)

[Travis]

Scroll saw blades have thin kerf based on the use to cut intricate patterns.  With some practice should be able to make two passes and not be too wide.    

A spiral tooth blade will likely get the closest to the width you are looking for.  Something like an Olson SP467 (.051 inch kerf).  Can also buy sanding "blades" to clean up the kerf.

I don't use my scroll saw very often as don't find it very useful compared to my bandsaws for lure making.  Others may know a better blade set up.

Edited May 4, 2021 by Travis

[eastman03]

Is there a way to sandwich two blades together to make the right width?  I know sometimes guys do that with saw blades in a hand saw.  

[Thiskidlikes2fish]

3 hours ago, eastman03 said:

Is there a way to sandwich two blades together to make the right width?  I know sometimes guys do that with saw blades in a hand saw.  

I maybe could try that thanks

[Thiskidlikes2fish]

15 hours ago, Travis said:

Scroll saw blades have thin kerf based on the use to cut intricate patterns.  With some practice should be able to make two passes and not be too wide.    

A spiral tooth blade will likely get the closest to the width you are looking for.  Something like an Olson SP467 (.051 inch kerf).  Can also buy sanding "blades" to clean up the kerf.

I don't use my scroll saw very often as don't find it very useful compared to my bandsaws for lure making.  Others may know a better blade set up.

I will look into those thanks

[BobP]

I use a scroll saw to shape baits and cut lip slots.  A “standard” blade has a kerf that exactly fits 1/16” G10 but is too thin for polycarbonate Lexan lips, so you have to cut them double.  Frankly, I don’t see it as a problem.  Since I use Rod Bond paste epoxy to glue lips, if the slot ends up a little ragged or oversize, the paste fills the extra space up and it doesn’t matter.

[mark poulson]

If you get one side of the slot flat and square, you can widen the slot without worrying about exact fit, put your lip into the slot with whatever glue you use, wedge it tight against the flat/square face, and fill in the sloppy side.   I do that, using ZAP med. gap filling super glue and their accelerant to lock it in place once it's positioned.  After the initial glue is set, I remove the wedge (or cut it off if it's too well glued) and fill any gaps that are left with more super glue.  I works for me.

[Big Epp]

Similarly I use a double cut.  I make the first cut with the blade and then "shave" off the sides until it fits.

[Ryan V]

I use a scroll saw for all my baits and lip slots. I hold the lip against the bait at the angle I want and trace on both sides of the lip with a fine pencil and then cut to the inside of both lines. I always need to take at lest two passes but you should be able to get any thickens you need by taking really light passes and testing the fit until you get it perfect.

[Bdnoble84]

You need to stencil your lip on then double cut. Stay inside your lines and conservatively make it wider. U wil get the feel