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Crankbait Bill size?

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I'm sorry if this question has come up before, my "google-fu" has failed me. I'm new to creating lures out of wood and I'm failing at the bill. My jerkbait darts when I twitch it, but it has no action when reeling it back to the boat. How do I know how far out of the body I should extend the bill and how wide should I make the widest part? I'm asking for more than just jerkbaits. I enjoy fishing squarebills too, and I want to try some coffinbills as well.

 

Is there a length x width x height style formula?

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I have never found a magic equation for bill size and don’t think there is one( if there is Vodkaman Dave will know it though).

The issue is weight, tie point location, angle, lip location and even body shape will action 

if you have a pic of the lure odds are myself or others can help correct the issues just by asking you a few questions after 

but when it comes to to lip size I just know what works from trial and error. In my opinion the best option is cut a few potential lips pressure fit them in the lip slot and test the action. All it takes is a layer or two off masking tape to pressure fit a lip

When it comes to new lures the more things you can test before completing it the less likely you are to fail

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I looked into lure formulae many years ago. Unfortunately, the variables are too complex to be reduced to a simple formula, not because of lip parameters, but because of body shapes and their less predictable effects on flow.

Trial and error rules when it comes to lip shapes and sizes, be prepared to experiment.

Dave

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I believe for some lure makers, if they are honest, off the shelf baits are far superior to what they make. One can learn a lot from commercial baits and it should be viewed as a library of proven designs at your fingertips.  

With that in mine it is easy to see similarities in bait shape and the different lip styles that are typically used.   The more baits you have fished, the more baits you have handled, and the more baits you have built the easier it gets to knock out a lip designs to test.

I couldn't begin to count the number of cranks I have fished since the late 80's and have watched a lot of baits come and go. When I build a bait I have various templates in my lure making supplies that I can pull from to use or modify.

 

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Maybe it’s just my imagination but the lip seems too far back in the body.  Depending on the attitude while retrieved, the nose of the bait might obstruct the water flow over the lip, killing the action.  Like Travis, I always look at commercial baits for clues to designing good baits.  If anyone thinks they can build a better jerkbait than a Megabass Ito 110, they’re probably mistaken.  So why not copy its basic design details.  Take a look at jerkbaits from 20 different companies.  See much design variability?  I don’t.  If you want to experiment, good on ya.  I do that too.  But only after I’ve built a bait that works exactly as it should and most times, that one is a slavish copy of a commercial bait I admire.  I don’t sell baits so see copying as the highest form of flattery, not a sin.

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5 hours ago, Travis said:

I believe for some lure makers, if they are honest, off the shelf baits are far superior to what they make. One can learn a lot from commercial baits and it should be viewed as a library of proven designs at your fingertips.  

With that in mine it is easy to see similarities in bait shape and the different lip styles that are typically used.   The more baits you have fished, the more baits you have handled, and the more baits you have built the easier it gets to knock out a lip designs to test.

I couldn't begin to count the number of cranks I have fished since the late 80's and have watched a lot of baits come and go. When I build a bait I have various templates in my lure making supplies that I can pull from to use or modify.

 

I think Travis is right.  Commercial baits are a great reference library.

I use a successful lure that I'd like to imitate for my starting point, and then change things, one at a time, to see how those changes affect the lure.

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I would cut the bill off flush or remove it entirely (making sure to fill and seal the slot), cut a new bill slot closer to the line tie. Like others have said, look at proven designs to establish location and angle. I do it frequently when working on a design, no sense wasting a build if all other things appear to be good.

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