Inline spinner woes

[otsismi]

This inline spinner won't spin or engage. Anyone see anything wrong with it? 

 

Are there any guidelines for inline spinners that should be followed to ensure the blade will spin?

[dlaery]

Needs a couple beads behind the clevis?

 

[dlaery]

I guess I was wrong, i got front and back mixed up

 

[TerryF2858]

colorado blades spin pretty close to the body, maybe it hits the body and cant spin. or maybe not enough cup to the blade,

[Apdriver]

At first glance, your wire size looks way big to me for such a small inline spinner. IIRC, .021 is what I typically use for this size. Another thing that sticks out is the Colorado blade. They just don’t spin well on an in-line. Try a French blade. You’ll have way more success. What size clevis are you using?

Edited June 29, 2021 by Apdriver

[otsismi]

17 hours ago, Apdriver said:

At first glance, your wire size looks way big to me for such a small inline spinner. IIRC, .021 is what I typically use for this size. Another thing that sticks out is the Colorado blade. They just don’t spin well on an in-line. Try a French blade. You’ll have way more success. What size clevis are you using?

Clevis: size 2

Blade: size 1

Wire: .031"

Weight: 1/16oz 

[Bruce County Brook Trout]

From here the blade looks flat and not really cupped. I tryed similar small Colorado blades with what seemed like way to much curve to them. They didn't spin. I hammered them to have less of a concave and I did manage to get them to spin but it wasn't easy, I had to pull fast. As stated above french will work best on a clevis and a inline Sonic type spinner blade like on a panther Martin works best.

Try this. Make up a loop like you do on the top and build your lure but leave the wire a bit longer and don't close it off àt the bottom. Attach something to hold everything on the wire. I use earing stoppers they're small, soft plastic, clear, have a tiny hole in the middle, they sell them at the dollar store in bags by 100. You can test out different things quickly but removing the stoppers and changing design, weight spacing.

Every blade likes to have a free flow of water around all it's edges and already be in a good tilt position to take off and start spinning under water. When your blade is flat, it's up against your body weight. Adding beads between body and blade, like stated above will enable better water flow around the bottom of the blade to give it lift off and spin. The water has to have a place to get in behind and lift it. Clevises like a good smooth strong ball to rotate on which it looks like you have. Good luck

Edited July 1, 2021 by Bruce County Brook Trout
On second look

[Anglinarcher]

OK, I will be the fly in the ointment here for sure.  (or in this case, the soup, the hot plastic, the epoxy clear coat)  LOL

1st, I agree that .031 is a little large for 1/16 oz, but if the clevis is large enough that won't matter. 

2nd, I don't know what brand you are using, but size 1 Colorado blades (any size 1) take a pretty small clevis, so that should be OK.  

3rd, I totally disagree with the positions taken on Colorado blades.  Once spinning, they spin at almost right angles to the blade, not close to the body.  They also spin easiest, with the most thump, and at the slowest speeds.  OK, I bet someone is looking for raid to spray the fly in me about now.

Willow Leaf blades spin the closest to the body, but the fastest.  French blades are a good compromise and they are commonly used to provide a compromise.  Hatchet blades create a lot of noise, can be tricky to spin on an in-line, but they do work; I upsize them one size.  Dakota blades spin almost as fast as Willow Leaf, just have an extra reflective surface.  I have missed some, but the point is that if you can use them on a bass spinner bait (safety pin style) you can use them in line as well.

4th, the beads between the body and the blade are the key IMHO.  It appears to me that if you hang the spinner from the line tie that the blade will hit the hook points.  For the blade to work, it must be able to start spinning and hanging up on the hook points prevents it from starting, allowing the Bernoulli effect to start and get the blade to spin.  Either the body will need to be longer or the number of beads will need to increase so that the lure hanging on the line eye will not have the blade and hook interfere.  Additionally, you need some distance to increase the starting angle on the body and the addition of at least a second bead should do that for you.

To test this out, try to cut the wire out, make a new one with a single bead behind the body, add two more beads above the body and before the clevis for a total of 3, use the Colorado blade you have with the concave forward (a must).  I suggest that while it might not look the greatest, it will work fine now.  You can than remove beads as necessary/desired.  

[smalljaw]

The wire is too large for the size of the spinner as was noted but the body is too wide for the length of the spinner. What is happening is that the body is disrupting the water flow behind the spinner blade. You need to add about 3/8" in length and then a few more beads behind the clevis. That should allow the water to go by the blade well enough to carry the blade completely around the wire. If you want to have it be compact try using a smaller body and smaller wire or even jump up to a #2 blade. 

[azsouth]

I ran into a similar situation, I added a second bead and no more problems.

My .02.

[Big Epp]

Great thread! I just made some spinners with whiptail blades. They spum great with no hooks, but when I added a 2/0 ewg worm hook and a fluke the blades stopped spinning.  The exception was a panther Martin style blade that spun great.

[Anglinarcher]

On 7/2/2021 at 7:15 AM, Big Epp said:

" The exception was a panther Martin style blade that spun great. "

Ya, those style blades are great.  I find myself using them more and more.

[Hillbilly voodoo]

On 7/1/2021 at 11:05 PM, azsouth said:

I ran into a similar situation, I added a second bead and no more problems.

My .02.

I agree with this guy 

[A Milton]

On 7/1/2021 at 3:39 PM, Anglinarcher said:

OK, I will be the fly in the ointment here for sure.  (or in this case, the soup, the hot plastic, the epoxy clear coat)  LOL

1st, I agree that .031 is a little large for 1/16 oz, but if the clevis is large enough that won't matter. 

2nd, I don't know what brand you are using, but size 1 Colorado blades (any size 1) take a pretty small clevis, so that should be OK.  

3rd, I totally disagree with the positions taken on Colorado blades.  Once spinning, they spin at almost right angles to the blade, not close to the body.  They also spin easiest, with the most thump, and at the slowest speeds.  OK, I bet someone is looking for raid to spray the fly in me about now.

Willow Leaf blades spin the closest to the body, but the fastest.  French blades are a good compromise and they are commonly used to provide a compromise.  Hatchet blades create a lot of noise, can be tricky to spin on an in-line, but they do work; I upsize them one size.  Dakota blades spin almost as fast as Willow Leaf, just have an extra reflective surface.  I have missed some, but the point is that if you can use them on a bass spinner bait (safety pin style) you can use them in line as well.

4th, the beads between the body and the blade are the key IMHO.  It appears to me that if you hang the spinner from the line tie that the blade will hit the hook points.  For the blade to work, it must be able to start spinning and hanging up on the hook points prevents it from starting, allowing the Bernoulli effect to start and get the blade to spin.  Either the body will need to be longer or the number of beads will need to increase so that the lure hanging on the line eye will not have the blade and hook interfere.  Additionally, you need some distance to increase the starting angle on the body and the addition of at least a second bead should do that for you.

To test this out, try to cut the wire out, make a new one with a single bead behind the body, add two more beads above the body and before the clevis for a total of 3, use the Colorado blade you have with the concave forward (a must).  I suggest that while it might not look the greatest, it will work fine now.  You can than remove beads as necessary/desired.  

Hi Anglinarcher, I totally agree with you on Colorado blades, they are my go to blades in the rivers I fish here in New Zealand. I mostly use size 3, occasionally size 2 but recently bought some size 1 blades to try out and I'm struggling to get them to spin well. I've been slowly reducing weight on my test models , removing one tungsten bead at a time, suspecting that this might be the main problem and am down to around 2g now. (se jpg) They do spin but not very well and only very very slowly when they do. I was wondering what weight profile you use? I would really appreciate any insight you may have. Many thanks.

[Anglinarcher]

3 hours ago, A Milton said:

Hi Anglinarcher, I totally agree with you on Colorado blades, they are my go to blades in the rivers I fish here in New Zealand. I mostly use size 3, occasionally size 2 but recently bought some size 1 blades to try out and I'm struggling to get them to spin well. I've been slowly reducing weight on my test models , removing one tungsten bead at a time, suspecting that this might be the main problem and am down to around 2g now. (se jpg) They do spin but not very well and only very very slowly when they do. I was wondering what weight profile you use? I would really appreciate any insight you may have. Many thanks.

It's not the weight, it is the angle of the blade relative to the width of the body and first couple of beads.  On your 2nd from the left and the third, you have a micro bead than a small brass bead.  Add at least one, maybe two.  Below that hoj can add your weight back in. 

Your blades may be part of the problem.  They looked like you painted them, so how much heavier are they than original.  If the weight is too much, it slows down the spin.  It would probably need to be 30% or more heavier than before the added paint.

You are close, very close.  Someday I will take the time to draw this out and take a picture.  But, right now, I don't have a sketch to help you with.

[A Milton]

Thanks mate. I have some plain gold ones as well that also had the same problem. Definitely going to try adding a couple more small beads and will reconsider the painting. I actually sanded a bit of black off before adding the dots and seal coating but you're right- they will be heavier.

[Anglinarcher]

Try one with just the gold first, adding the beads, and make one up with the same painted one you have with the additional beads.  The painting may make no difference.

 

[A Milton]

On 7/6/2021 at 9:16 AM, Anglinarcher said:

Try one with just the gold first, adding the beads, and make one up with the same painted one you have with the additional beads.  The painting may make no difference.

 

Hi, done a lot of experimenting and the gold ones work really well now with the extra small bead added. Caught a big if somewhat underweight brown trout on one yesterday (its mid winter here in NZ). Thanks for that tip! Still having trouble with the black ones though, I suspect the blades are too heavy, which is a shame as this is how they came from the US based online supplier. (To clarify the ones in the picture I posted above were painted with a dot and seal coated by myself but the more recent test ones have been plain unpainted black blades.) I'm running standard size 1 stirrup clevis's on these size 1 colorado blades with no success but made one yesterday using a smaller clevis from another store bought lure and found that this did spin a lot better. What size clevis have you used on your size 1 colorado spinners and have you found any smaller the standard size 1 clevis? Thanks again!

[Anglinarcher]

I am not sure how to compare sizes or styles between our two areas.  I try to use these:

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Easy-Spin-Clevises

• Size 1, .030", use on smaller baits typically 1/4oz or smaller

These are fair blades to use.

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Painted-Colorado-Blades

But, when you can get the right size, this is the type of Colorado Blade I prefer:

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Premium-Painted-Deep-Cup-Blades

I am glad you got some to work, but I have trouble getting blades smaller than size 3, once in a while a size 2.

[A Milton]

On 7/15/2021 at 2:14 PM, Anglinarcher said:

I am not sure how to compare sizes or styles between our two areas.  I try to use these:

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Easy-Spin-Clevises

• Size 1, .030", use on smaller baits typically 1/4oz or smaller

These are fair blades to use.

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Painted-Colorado-Blades

But, when you can get the right size, this is the type of Colorado Blade I prefer:

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Premium-Painted-Deep-Cup-Blades

I am glad you got some to work, but I have trouble getting blades smaller than size 3, once in a while a size 2.

Cheers, yeah, I'm using the same clevis from the same supplier, the black painted blades are these ones  though- https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Premium-Finish-Colorado-Blades . Will have a look at trying some deep cups next time I place an order. Thanks for all the help mate!

[Big Epp]

I twisted up some spinners for use with soft plastic trailers. After reading the info here I added some more beads, and so far they work great! The one with brass beads in the picture didn't spin well. But when I added the extra beads in the other they worked great. I'll put another picture in the gallery of all the functional ones.