saw TPI for balsa

[Sonny.Barile]

How many teeth per inch is good for a hand saw blade, when cutting 1/4 inch thick balsa sheet? It won’t be the finished cuts....just a rough cut before sanding the blanks to size. 
 

Why I ask is that I saw    this Milwaukee folding saw and thought it may work well for me........if not I will buy another little coping saw to replace the one I seem to have lost.......It was ok but a little clumsy and slow (or maybe that was me ) for cutting rough blanks that I sanded to the lines.    
 

The Milwaukee jab saw comes with an 18 TPI blade that is actually intended for metal and general use but it’s not aggressive like a typical jab saw. Seems more closer to a hack saw..........I have cut balsa and bass with hack saws and it was clean......just too big of a saw for the little job. 
 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Folding-Jab-Saw-with-6-in-18-TPI-Metal-SAWZALL-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-48-22-0305/202525764.   

Edited July 26, 2021 by Sonny.Barile
Cause I can’t spell

[Travis]

Go with the coping saw. A coping saw would be a much better option than the saw listed. Teamed up with a 12 to 14 tooth blade would be best.  Something cheap will do just fine. Cutting 1/4 balsa crank would be honestly seconds to do.

Now if you do additional woodworking and appreciate a quality tool... Knew Concepts Coping saw is a pleasure to use teamed up with Pegas blades or similar.  I use mine frequently for cleaning waste on dovetails and intricate cuts and shapes but definitely not needed. 

 

Edited July 27, 2021 by Travis

[BobP]

I use a standard 12 tpi blade on my scroll saw..

[Sonny.Barile]

That’s a really nice coping saw but as I lose everything......not a good idea for me......also, I don’t really do any wood working. I have made some lures (large poppers and Pike lures for salt water use) from hardwood in the past where all of my shaping was done with a belt sander, wood rasp, and hand sanding, to make mold masters for Urethane casting, but have never touched apiece of balsa other than in the store. I bought some a few days ago and it feels so light.......I just don’t want to tear it up. My goal is to make small cranks and not use any power tools. I bought some knives, punches, fine files, and various grit sanding blocks. It’s a personal challenge for me. The only power I can’t avoid will be the lure turner and UV lights.  My topcoat of choice requires UV light to cure and I cant do it in the daylight and keep flipping baits over out in the sun. So that’s the only power I will allow myself. 
 

I grew bored with casting lures.....I think I sucked the fun right out if it. 
 

 

 

[Sonny.Barile]

Bought the Milwaukee and tried it. It doesn’t like balsa.......it’s not aggressive at all.....it is slow and the balsa powders as opposed to cutting. It’s more like grinding. I tried it on some bass wood and it’s a match made in heaven. Works like you would expect it too. 
 

 

[Travis]

On 8/7/2021 at 9:00 AM, Sonny.Barile said:

Bought the Milwaukee and tried it. It doesn’t like balsa.......it’s not aggressive at all.....it is slow and the balsa powders as opposed to cutting. It’s more like grinding. I tried it on some bass wood and it’s a match made in heaven. Works like you would expect it too. 
 

 

If you are using the exact saw you linked it isn't going to be aggressive as the blade is intended to cut non ferrous metals, pvc pipe etc...   You can buy a different sawzall blade more intended for wood but simply just better options.   For 1/4 inch balsa you will find very commonly model builders and such use an exacto knife for the work.

Many different reasons why  guys use certain tools:  1) what they have on hand 2) ease of use 3) comfort level  of tool  4) performance  etc....  Doesn't matter as in the end many different ways one can go about a task. 

 

[Chuck Young]

There is a razor saw / miter box combination specially made for Balsa and basswood. It is fast and clean, and I like working from a square cut.