MAGNUM spinnerbaits

[finlander]

Has anyone poured a monster spinnerbait, like 4 or 5 oz.?? I have bought some .070 wire but only find 5/0 hooks locally. I'm after muskies and want to make only 3 or for for my next trip to Ontario. I want to use them trolling. They lead pours don't have to be pretty things, and I have a Lee hotpot for the lead. Has anyone used a mold out of anything other than aluminum?? Thanks, the Rookie.

[ckarren]

Rookie,

Husky just did a tutorial on a Bondo Mold this will help! http://www.tackleunderground.com/index.php?page=10&mode=article&k=30

Also see his post on a led mold form Bondo.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4096&highlight=bondo

and

http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4001&highlight=bondo

-Corey

[Party Crasher]

Do-It's PGH-2-43 Style H Jig can be easily modified to make a giant spinnerbait. This mold will make a 3 and 4 oz. It has a fish shaped body and sockets for 3D eyes. You can get a 8/0 Mustad 3407 hook in it. This mold makes a really nice 4 oz. spinnerbait that trolls very well.

[PaBasser]

If your only going to be making a few, then I would make a mold out of wood. Just carve the shape of head you want, cut out for wire and hook, then you have just what you want without any added expense. If your happy with your wooden mold, then you could make a better mold that last out of any materail you wish to make a mold.

PaBasser

[finlander]

Thanks for the posts. I have the wood all set to pour as soon as I find the time to get at it. I might even buy a 2 to 2 1/2 oz one and then add more lead to it, though i don't know if the new lead will bond well to the existing lead on the wire and hook. I have the wire already, up to 3/32 thick. I wish Stamina would send me the new catalog! I'm getting antsy and winter hasn't begun yet.

[finlander]

PartyCrasher-I looked at my 2003 Stamina catalog and did not see that Do-It mold. Where can I get one? It being a jig mold would I have to cut slots in the aluminum to set the wire and hook inside? I have a Ryobi rotary tool. That with the proper bit might work, eh?

[charkins]

I don't build many lead baits any more, but Do-it lists the mold on their website. You can order direct from them. www.do-itmolds.com

Good luck

Cal

[Party Crasher]

Finlander,

Barlows has them for $27.86. Go to "Jigs with heavy Hooks" and then to "H style".

Yes, you will have to cut a slot for the wire. Use a hacksaw blade. Draw a line with a pencil on one side if the mold where you want the groove. Saw down 1/2 the thickness of the wire you want to use. Now put a piece of the wire in the slot you just made and close the mold with light pressure. Now, slide the piece of wire back and forth a few times and you will score a line on the other side of the mold. Carefully cut the other half of the slot with the hacksaw blade. Very easy.

You will have to open up and deepen the slot for the hook if you are going to use the big 8/0 Mustad. That can be done with your rotary tool and a small metal burr.

[finlander]

Here's a few questions I still have. A jig mold would need a hook with that 90 degree bend in it. I want to make a large spinnerbait where the hook eye and wire attached to the hook eye are encased in the lead head. This will make a strong spinnerbait, right? I mean you want to encase the attached area, right?? So I want a spinnerbait hook and not a true jig hook.?. And when it comes to a trailer hook, just slipping it over the first hook is enough? there isn't somthing I'm missing here is there? The pictures have the skirts hiding the hook area. Is there something other than the tubing to use? Am I trusting the main hooks strength to hold up if a monster is only hooked by the rear hook? Thanks, sorry for the rambling from a rookie....

[Party Crasher]

Yes, you will turn a loop at the end of the wire and hook that through the eye of the #3407 hook. That's strong enough, but you can squeeze the wire shut if you are still worried. That connection gets encased in the lead. When you cast the head, some lead will flow into the space where the 90 degree jig-hook would normally be. Clip that off with a side cutter and file or sand away any nubs that are left.

As far as trailers go, I have done it both ways. The easiest is to slip a large-eye single trailer over the main hook. Tubing, Shoo-goo, Plastic Dip (tool handle stuff) and pieces of innertube all work. I've never had one come off during battle.

The other option is to have a seperate wire (.051) with an eye turned on one end, cast into the head below the hook. This wire trailer needs to be connected to the arm wire or the hook eye before casting. You will also need to grind out room in the mold for this wire to sit below the hook.

A heavy duty split ring is used to attach any hooks to the trailer wire. The only reason I use the wire trailer method is when I want dressed trebles for trailers. Otherwise I'd recommend staying with the the single trailer over the main hook.