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G D Beck

Plastisol heating & working time extension

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Hello folks,

I've been open hand pouring for a bit now.  Chris Jones' advice on color mixes have produced many excellent results for me, varying his takes for my own waters & baits.  However, perhaps like some of you, I only have a few molds of any particular variety.  So, that means, yes as you already know, reheating and reheating the plastic.  Sometimes it takes on a yellow tint and I have to start with some fresh and save the ugly stuff for some dark or opaque color.  I've been told stabilizer might help, BUT the point is, if you are pouring only one or two hand-pour baits at a time, the plastic workability dilemma will come into play.

So, the question.  What has worked best for you all in this situation.  I have two creature molds that will have four layers/zones.  So, the plastic needs to be hot enough to adequately bond, and then 20 minutes later, do it all over again.  It's that second part.  So, thinking maybe a toaster oven or something else to keep 4 cups of different color schemes workable at the same time.

What do you do?  Many thanks for any thoughts & advice.  It's the cold of Moria now, so gearing up for some springtime fun.

Cheers!

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Try an electric hot plate. I mean household cookware. Use small size sauce pan. 4 layers hand pours laminate then 4 pans 4 colors. Adjust temp control as low as Plastisol pour-able and less burning. Heating Pylex on the hot plate should be OK, but I don't take the risk of glass shutter so aluminum small pan is safer and way to go.

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Agree with all said. Now let me add my two cent. Heat stabilizer is your friend.. it only takes a couple of drops to 4 oz of plastic. When I’m doing hand pours I use a deep griddle with  sand in it to help hold the heat in the pan. The more plastic you use the longer the cups will hold the heat.

image.jpg

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Wow guys, what a trove of great thoughts!   Many thanks!

WallyC14 - that's pretty creative.  I can totally see why that would work.  It looks like a bit of a heat sink, but once warmed, it is pretty bulletproof.

Stabilizer, yes, your lessons are learned & appreciated.  Just poured a few today with the heat-plate method, much better already.  But Wally, dang, that looks awsome.

Thanks again guys, good fishing!

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On 1/21/2022 at 3:10 PM, wallyc14 said:

Agree with all said. Now let me add my two cent. Heat stabilizer is your friend.. it only takes a couple of drops to 4 oz of plastic. When I’m doing hand pours I use a deep griddle with  sand in it to help hold the heat in the pan. The more plastic you use the longer the cups will hold the heat.

image.jpg

Sandcasted?

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On 2/8/2022 at 6:09 AM, wallyc14 said:

I put my cups in . Poured sand mixed with Elmer’s glue in. Let it dry and good to go.

Thats awesome. how much glue did you have to use? does the heat affect the glue at all? What temp do you keep it at to keep the plastic hot? does the unit smoke at all?

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Sorry for the late response .I put my cups in then I poured sand around the tray.Then I mixed a quart of water and mixed quite a bit of Elmer’s glue until I basically had watered down glue so it would completely soaked down into the sand. I plugged it in and set it on low heat for a couple hours and then turned it off and let it sit overnight and by the time I got up the next day it was good and hard I could pull my Pyrex cups right out. It will take 400 degrees with no problems.

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Durham's would probably be OK for this just a more expensive . I have used Durham's for making limited use lead molds for prototyping jigheads . It will burn a little on the surface of the cavity from each pour of 600+ hot lead . 

After a few pours with lead the Durham's will start degrading messing up the detail of the cavity .

I have heated up the hardened Durham's molds in the oven with no ill effects to sweat out any remaining moisture before using it for lead pouring which is about the temp of heated plastisol  .

 

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