RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Is there anybody else out there who paints their lures with rattle-can? Rattle-can spray paint is a great way to learn to paint lures, and if you look at Ceaser Chavez's Toxic Baits, he paints everything with rattle-can, so there are ways to do it, I am just looking to learn a new technique or two here, along with you guys that paint with rattle-can. Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Catignani Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 I will do a base coat with rattle-can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 I do that as well, I am trying to learn how to do detail with rattle-can. I know theres like graffiti caps and stuff, but I know nothing about that. I use stencils but don"t get super clean lines like I want. Is there any way to get super clean scales with rattle-can? Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 It can be done but sort of falls into pick the right tool for the right job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 23 minutes ago, Travis said: It can be done but sort of falls into pick the right tool for the right job. Makes sense, just trial and error until I get it right then... Im cool with it! Thanks! Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 I didn't use rattle cans too long as was painting bass cranks and just never thought the results were acceptable. It was quick at the time (early 90's) but after using a 20 buck testors (plastic) model kit from Wally World during that time never have picked up a rattle can to paint a bait. Same techniques apply as in airbrushing you just don't have the same level of performance. For scales just lay your tule, netting, etc.. taught against the bait and mist with the rattle can. Start spraying before the bait and after the bait. Never point and shoot. A few embroidery hoops can make things a lot easier. There were a few guys on the site years ago that used rattle cans to paint cranks and should be able to run a few searches and come across some of their work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Alright. I will have to look at that today then. I'll have to paint some lures here in Kansas as soon as I have some baits ready and the weather isn't ice-cold... Winter sucks... Anyway, thanks man, appreciate it! Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowFISH Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 I don't use rattle cans for baits, but a few months ago had to paint some prototypes for work and needed a specific color and it had to be flat or satin finish which is near impossible to find in a color other than black/white. The only brand I could find that met the criteria was "Montana" which is an artist/graffiti brand of paints. I have to say - it was awesome stuff... color went on great, you can hold the can at nearly any angle and it seemed to cover wonderfully, no runs, dried fast.... yeah it's more expensive than your typical Krylon/Rustoleum... but I'd HIGHLY recommend it if you plan on rattle canning something you want to come out nice. Plus the color chart is HUGE - they have ALOT of colors to choose from. I bought my stuff from AmaXXX cause I needed it fast although there are other places you might find certain colors cheaper. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 I use rattle cans, mostly on larger baits. I use 3M blue 2080 tape that comes in 1/8” and ¼” wide rolls for getting fine lines. The tape is easy to curve and has low adhesion so it doesn’t ruin underlying paint if dry. After doing a few baits, I have gotten fast at taping off things life perch stripes and fins. https://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=3M+2080+tape&searchBar=true I use netting, tule, window screen, Walmart lingerie laundry bags for scales. The laundry type bags are thick with larger openings which are great for larger lures. I use stencils as well. I just use a mix and match approach to what I think works on a bait. You could try liquid masking tape/art fluid masking. I have just started using that. You can also use Sharpies with different tips for fine details. In addition to starting the spray before the bait, another key is not to get the can too close and do a couple of light passes. If the paint goes on too heavy, you can get a paint ridge at the tape edge or a paint run. On areas like a gill plate, you may want the paint ridge. No doubt an airbrush is better than a rattle can. With a rattle can, it would be difficult to get a ‘work of art’ paint job. But, you can definitely can get a quality paint job that will fool a fish. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 I think the action is more important that the paintjob. I don't try to get a picture perfect type paint job. I have posted 3 pics in the Hardbait gallery showing about 20 paintjobs done without an airbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 I started out painting my one piece Lunker Punker imitations with solvent based rattle can paints. Like JD_Mudbug said, I was never able to get details with rattle cans. They were build from douglas fir, and they never had a problem with water intrusion. I still have a couple that fish just fine. But they are heavy, and a chore to throw all day. Once I'd sealed the wood with oil based primer, I would hang them from the bottom of my overhead garage door. and do multiple layers of different colors. That way, I could blend colors from a lighter bottom to a darker back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 I actually have a question referring to rattle-can. Does rattle-can spray paint from Rust-Oleum and Krylon sink? I don't think it does, but it might. Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 13 minutes ago, RiverSmallieGuy said: I actually have a question referring to rattle-can. Does rattle-can spray paint from Rust-Oleum and Krylon sink? I don't think it does, but it might. Braden I've never done a float test. I guess spraying some onto the surface of a dish of water, and letting it dry will tell you pretty quickly if it floats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 I figured thats how I would go about it, I am going to try that soon, when it isn't frozen outside... I will let ya'll know what the result was. Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted February 21, 2022 Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 (edited) Most of the rattle-can paint floats as it is oil or solvent based. You can spray it into a bucket of water to make hyrdo dipped swirl paint jobs. There are some water based spray paints like the spray paints for outdoor fabrics. The water based paints may float, sink or even suspend depending the ingredients. https://dipdoctr.com/best-spray-paint-for-hydro-dipping/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHoW-56NGVU Edited February 21, 2022 by JD_mudbug missing info 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 2 hours ago, JD_mudbug said: Most of the rattle-can paint floats as it is oil based. You can spray it into a bucket of water to make hyrdo dipped swirl paint jobs. There are some water based spray paints like the spray paints for outdoor fabrics. The water based paints may float, sink or even suspend depending the ingredients. https://dipdoctr.com/best-spray-paint-for-hydro-dipping/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHoW-56NGVU I kinda had hydro-dipping in mind as well. I was just unsure if the fact that the paints were oil based or water based had a difference. Do you know if standard Krylon and Rusto cans are oil or water? I would assume oil, based on your statement above, but I am not 100%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted February 21, 2022 Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 (edited) Most of the standard Rustoleum and Krylon seem to be oil based or solvent/synthetic based that float. The standard Rustoleum in my area is the white can that says Protective Enamel on it somewhere. The Krylon cans come in a bunch of colors. The Colormaxx ones are what I usually find in my area. That paint also floats. At least, the 20 or so cans I have in those product lines float. Marking paint and Fabric paint seem to be usually water based. They don't want oil based paint used to mark the ground to seep into the groundwater. They don't want a canopy or outdoor furniture to burst into flames because some dope put it too close to the fire pit. If you can't find the base info on the can, I look up the particular paint up at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot websites. They usually list it in the product spec down near the bottom before the reviews. Or, like Mark says, you can do a small spray into a disposable cup filled with water to test it. Edited February 21, 2022 by JD_mudbug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 Makes sense. I was just wondering how the paint affected the weighting of the lure; like if it would throw off the balance. Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Epp Posted February 21, 2022 Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 Toss a can in a bucket of water and see what happens... I've done several with cans, and prefer to use them when detail isn't as important. My uncle can get pretty good detail, but struggles like you said with scales. I think it might work a bit better if you spray from farther away. If you spray too close the paint is blasted under the netting or screen or whatever you use. Like @mark poulson said, you can also dust multiple colors to create some cool blending effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 9 minutes ago, Big Epp said: Toss a can in a bucket of water and see what happens... I've done several with cans, and prefer to use them when detail isn't as important. My uncle can get pretty good detail, but struggles like you said with scales. I think it might work a bit better if you spray from farther away. If you spray too close the paint is blasted under the netting or screen or whatever you use. Like @mark poulson said, you can also dust multiple colors to create some cool blending effects. Yeah. I am trying to think of a way to get super detailed work with cans. I love to use cans, you just need to know the ins and outs of all of them. Then you get into graffiti caps, which I know nothing about... Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Epp Posted February 21, 2022 Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 I get that. I picked up a bunch of cans on clearance, then I got an airbrush... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 The end goal, though is an airbrush. I just want to learn how to rattle-can, because if I get good at it, imagine what I could do with an airbrush... Im just learning here.. haha. Braden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted February 22, 2022 Report Share Posted February 22, 2022 The keys to a rattle can paints job are keeping the nozzle at the right distance and proper angle to the bait. You want to hit the proper areas with the right amount of paint and move the nozzle on the next pass changing the angle slightly to get some blending. Start your spray before the lure, use a straight steady sweeping motion that maintains the same angle and distance to the bait, stop the spray after passing the bait. Any splatters that fly from the nozzle at the start or end of a spray will miss the bait. You have to use tape, stencils or items like a large comb to get detail. The volume and area of spray from a rattle can is too great to get fine details without something to block off some of the bait’s surface. You can also use rattle can to do the bulk painting and then use a Sharpie, hand painting or air brush to get details. Big Epp is right about scales. You have to be particularly careful with the nozzle distance when using a mesh scaling. The finer the mesh material the further away the nozzle has to be from the bait. The mesh should be clipped/clamped fairly tight down the full length of the bait. You may have to do several light dustings with a time gap between them to prevent the mesh from getting too wet or saturated. You may also have to tape off the belly if you don’t want the scale paint to hit the belly. The nozzle might have to be so far way that very fine paint particles can drift back onto the belly even if not facing the nozzle. I have not seen paint throw off the balance of a lure. It would have to be a suspending jerkbait, glide bait or finesse type crankbait like a Shad rap 5 for the paint to have a chance to throw off the balance. A heavy clear coat like D2T would be more likely to do that. I have painted some baits with the thick liquid Rustoleum and they work fine. I have found rattle can skills do not really translate into airbrush skills other than visualizing the overall paint scheme to be achieved. Good airbrush technique is nothing like using a rattle can. I keep using rattle cans on some larger baits because I can get cans for $2 at a local discount tool store. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Catignani Posted February 22, 2022 Report Share Posted February 22, 2022 19 hours ago, RiverSmallieGuy said: Yeah. I am trying to think of a way to get super detailed work with cans. I love to use cans, you just need to know the ins and outs of all of them. Then you get into graffiti caps, which I know nothing about... Braden Check out Jerry's Artarama... Liquitex Replacement Nozzles | Jerry's Artarama (jerrysartarama.com) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2022 23 hours ago, JD_mudbug said: The keys to a rattle can paints job are keeping the nozzle at the right distance and proper angle to the bait. You want to hit the proper areas with the right amount of paint and move the nozzle on the next pass changing the angle slightly to get some blending. Start your spray before the lure, use a straight steady sweeping motion that maintains the same angle and distance to the bait, stop the spray after passing the bait. Any splatters that fly from the nozzle at the start or end of a spray will miss the bait. You have to use tape, stencils or items like a large comb to get detail. The volume and area of spray from a rattle can is too great to get fine details without something to block off some of the bait’s surface. You can also use rattle can to do the bulk painting and then use a Sharpie, hand painting or air brush to get details. Big Epp is right about scales. You have to be particularly careful with the nozzle distance when using a mesh scaling. The finer the mesh material the further away the nozzle has to be from the bait. The mesh should be clipped/clamped fairly tight down the full length of the bait. You may have to do several light dustings with a time gap between them to prevent the mesh from getting too wet or saturated. You may also have to tape off the belly if you don’t want the scale paint to hit the belly. The nozzle might have to be so far way that very fine paint particles can drift back onto the belly even if not facing the nozzle. I have not seen paint throw off the balance of a lure. It would have to be a suspending jerkbait, glide bait or finesse type crankbait like a Shad rap 5 for the paint to have a chance to throw off the balance. A heavy clear coat like D2T would be more likely to do that. I have painted some baits with the thick liquid Rustoleum and they work fine. I have found rattle can skills do not really translate into airbrush skills other than visualizing the overall paint scheme to be achieved. Good airbrush technique is nothing like using a rattle can. I keep using rattle cans on some larger baits because I can get cans for $2 at a local discount tool store. I purchased a new clear coat recently, I heard great things about KBS Diamond Finish, but was worried about it taking away carving detail and the fact that it is expensive and finicky. I decided to go with the KBS Diamond Finish aerosol can. I chose this to save carving detail, but still get a very durable clear coat. Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
