RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 I have been using Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane in the Clear Semi-Gloss finish with decent success. Does dipping the lure multiple times seal it better or is that just for getting a smooth finish. Are there any better sealers I should use on my wooden lures, which are mostly crankbaits and swimbaits. Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigmeister Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 Another option is to soak bare wooden lure bodies overnight in a mixture of 1 part linseed oil mixed with 9 parts mineral spirits . Take them out and hang to dry for a couple of days . You can then prime coat and paint any with any oil based paints . I had a problem with cedar swimbaits having the paint split from absorbing water while fishing until I tried this sealer . If you hit a rock and ding the paint the wood is still protected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 11 minutes ago, jigmeister said: Another option is to soak bare wooden lure bodies overnight in a mixture of 1 part linseed oil mixed with 9 parts mineral spirits . Take them out and hang to dry for a couple of days . You can then prime coat and paint any with any oil based paints . I had a problem with cedar swimbaits having the paint split from absorbing water while fishing until I tried this sealer . If you hit a rock and ding the paint the wood is still protected I have heard of that idea. I haven't used it, but I know that a lot of people like it and use it. How does polyurethane stack up to the linseed oil + mineral spirit mixture? I just use polyurethane as a sealer, I don't use it as a clear coat, because its not a good clear coat. Braden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Catignani Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 On 2/25/2022 at 8:02 AM, jigmeister said: Another option is to soak bare wooden lure bodies overnight in a mixture of 1 part linseed oil mixed with 9 parts mineral spirits . Take them out and hang to dry for a couple of days . You can then prime coat and paint any with any oil based paints . I had a problem with cedar swimbaits having the paint split from absorbing water while fishing until I tried this sealer . If you hit a rock and ding the paint the wood is still protected Glad I came across this...I was trying a 60/40 mix and it was just taking way to long to dry. I have since cut it with 50% more mineral spirits...and drying time is way shorter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted March 3, 2022 Report Share Posted March 3, 2022 Epoxy thinned with DN, Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES), Spar Urethane cut with 25% mineral spirits, propionate wood sealer if you can find it, and superglue all do a good job. Minwax Wood Hardener makes a good and very tough seal coat. But, the dry time is long. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKjZsSbD2IM https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/37551-propionate-source/ You have to be careful with boiled linseed oil due to the fire risk. Boiled linseed oil generates heat when it dries and can ignite rags, paper towels and other trash causing a spontaneous combustion fire. I haven’t tried it but Brotherhood Baits sells a wood bait sealer. You could also try PVC boards and not have to worry about sealing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outlaw4 Posted March 3, 2022 Report Share Posted March 3, 2022 i use two coats of polyurethane on wood with pretty good success. with a couple of coats of epoxy over layers of paint. I've also used polyacrylic on a few and really that worked good too but i dont have tons of time on those baits but its super clean and safe so im going to build more this year this way. 1st coat of poly as a sealer and to lift the grain sand in between coats to smooth grain. 2nd coat to smooth for base coat of paint. Epoxy sealing is really good too, i think maybe its the best way but it always seems to take xtra time vs poly for the added benefit. But i'd use if i needed one lure to last as long as possible. Super glue is awesome for building test baits as its fast. the super thin stuff. ive not yet tried the UV route but that seems like it could be nice as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted March 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2022 How long does thin super glue sealing last? I know that super glue isn't perfectly waterproof, but it dries almost instantly. What do you guys think? On 3/3/2022 at 7:36 AM, Outlaw4 said: i use two coats of polyurethane on wood with pretty good success. with a couple of coats of epoxy over layers of paint. I've also used polyacrylic on a few and really that worked good too but i dont have tons of time on those baits but its super clean and safe so im going to build more this year this way. 1st coat of poly as a sealer and to lift the grain sand in between coats to smooth grain. 2nd coat to smooth for base coat of paint. Epoxy sealing is really good too, i think maybe its the best way but it always seems to take xtra time vs poly for the added benefit. But i'd use if i needed one lure to last as long as possible. Super glue is awesome for building test baits as its fast. the super thin stuff. ive not yet tried the UV route but that seems like it could be nice as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Catignani Posted March 20, 2022 Report Share Posted March 20, 2022 Something to think about... I've noticed that when I soak a lure in my Linseed:Paint thinner (1:10)...it will bubble for a bit. So...I think a more fluid concoction will pernitrate and seal deeper...thus better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted March 20, 2022 Report Share Posted March 20, 2022 If you are clear coating with epoxy it is most convenient to just use epoxy thinned with acetone it penetrates and hardens the wood so it also strengthens your bait at the the same time 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted March 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 Is thin super glue a good long term wood sealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 You need to understand how wood acts if you want to seal the right way. Wood fiber end grain is like a straw. This is how the tree gets moisture to its leaves and nutrients to it's roots. THE OBJECT ISNT TO SEAL INTO THE MIDDLE OF THE LURE. Guys that are dipping for hours and hours are doing NOTHING but throwing sealer away and allowing wood to increase in weight which could make a dud. The idea is to seal the capillary tubes for two reasons. One is keeping water out. Two is providing a base layer for your primer and paint to stick to and not be absorbed. "paint flow". What difference does it make if your sealer hits the middle of the lure? Fish are only going to penetrate a small amount even with the sharpest of teeth. The idea is to seal all the end grain. End of lure, inside drilled holes etc. I hope this post doesn't take me off my newbie status. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 (edited) 7 hours ago, RiverSmallieGuy said: Is thin super glue a good long term wood sealer? YES it is if you can get it to evenly dry. But it can be extremely dangerous to work with... Always wash your hands before you grab your pecker lol Edited March 27, 2022 by Salty's 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 On 3/20/2022 at 9:50 AM, Chris Catignani said: Something to think about... I've noticed that when I soak a lure in my Linseed:Paint thinner (1:10)...it will bubble for a bit. So...I think a more fluid concoction will pernitrate and seal deeper...thus better. WAAAAAAAAAAY too thin. Your sealing your lure with paint thinner. Must smell great to a fish too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 On 3/20/2022 at 10:03 AM, Hillbilly voodoo said: If you are clear coating with epoxy it is most convenient to just use epoxy thinned with acetone it penetrates and hardens the wood so it also strengthens your bait at the the same time Should not be using acetone. Use denatured alcohol or xylene first. Acetone is caustic to latex & water based paints. SURE way to have adhesion issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 14 minutes ago, Salty's said: Should not be using acetone. Use denatured alcohol or xylene first. Acetone is caustic to latex & water based paints. SURE way to have adhesion issues. Never had any issues but I do use a primer as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted March 28, 2022 Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 I just use whatever clearcoat product I will use as a final clearcoat to also seal the wood before painting That’s either epoxy, UV resin, or moisture cured urethane. Never have to worry about chemical incompatibilities that way AND the clearcoat is tougher and more waterproof than most of the products you might otherwise choose as a sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted March 29, 2022 Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 How about Minwax Sanding Sealer wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSmallieGuy Posted March 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 14 minutes ago, ravenlures said: How about Minwax Sanding Sealer wayne I actually forgot about that stuff. I have heard that it works exceptionally well and tends to dry fairly smooth. You are 100% able to sand in between coats of that stuff. I am more of a polyurethane guy, but I know that stuff works. And it isn't too expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted March 31, 2022 Report Share Posted March 31, 2022 Shellac 2lb cut. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 On 3/30/2022 at 6:22 PM, Travis said: Shellac 2lb cut. How many coats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 On 3/30/2022 at 6:22 PM, Travis said: Shellac 2lb cut. Warning! Alcohol is a solvent for shellac, so don't store those baits with any opened beer! Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 2 hours ago, mark poulson said: How many coats? Typically two is all I need for basswood lures. The lures are sanded to 120 -180 typically then dipped once. As you know the IPA flashes quickly and I then I knock down any raised area with the same and dip final time. Just easy to use product and no compatibility issues. Also does well to block out contaminants that cause fish eye in finishes. Woodworkers have long used it to block pine resin from showing in finishes or painted products. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
