11panos04 Posted June 1, 2022 Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 (edited) Good evening and I found you. For some time now I have been trying to make an amateur bait for lrf with balsa wood. I have problems with the final coating of epoxy or liquid glass. The procedure I follow is the following: After I shape the wood, etc. I put the weights and finish with its shape, I pass it 2 times with super glue. Then I make it smooth with fine sandpaper. Then I wipe with a cloth and spray the colors. Because of low budget and no possibility to buy airbrush and special paints, I use acrylic sprays (I find morris ones in the local store), in layers, with a 50 minute break between each layer. After some time, I spray 2 coats of acrylic varnish to paint. The problem starts now... I tried to leave it so the varnish will dry for a few hours, I even tried for a whole day, but the point is that then I pass the 2-component epoxy or the liquid glass and put it in the device that turns it slowly. The problem is that it forms those wrinkles that you see. I spread it again and again...nothing...I even tried heating the epoxy or the liquid glass,still nothing.Any help will be much appreciated,i have destroyed many lures like that. Edited June 1, 2022 by 11panos04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsouth Posted June 1, 2022 Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 having a reaction between paints and epoxy or your bait has oil from hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11panos04 Posted June 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 Αfter i spray the varnish,i don t touch the lure.I use the clamps to handle it,just like in the photo. Can you please guide me as to what i can try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flaswimbaiter Posted June 1, 2022 Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 When I used spray paint, I would clean with alcohol after sanding then paint, then epoxy, nothing else. The few times that happened it was in a high humidity garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wchilton Posted June 1, 2022 Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 A few things you can try. First is that if you know there is an issue with topcoat, no need to try new things on a fully shaped, built, lip and eyes installed lure that you spent a lot of time on. Just use an approximate lure shape that is quick to make until you have a working topcoat solution. Sand and paint same as a lure so you test the same finish, just on a "model" that is fast to create. I cannot tell if your issue is with the paint wrinkling underneath the topcoat or if topcoat is not sticking. It could be a little of both. For paint wrinkling, you can try heat-setting the acrylic paint with a hair dryer. Many acrylics become more permanent after some mild heating and then are less likely to wrinkle due to solvents or plasticizers in the top coat. For top coat not sticking well it is usually oil contamination. There could be an oil or plasticizer in the acrylic paint or it can come from your hands. Try wiping the lure clean with alcohol and the let excess alcohol dry just before applying topcoat. Isopropol alcohol from the drug store is fine. Try to find some with lower water content (around 70% alcohol or more) since that will dry faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted June 5, 2022 Report Share Posted June 5, 2022 I have no idea what “liquid glass” is. Epoxy is fairly resistant to chemical reactions with underlying coatings. You didn’t specify what brand/type of epoxy you used. The pic looks like it might have been a fast cure variety. If it is, that’s your problem. If it’s slow cure variety, which takes at least 30 minutes to harden (the correct type to use) then you need to consider your epoxy mixing and application techniques. Why do you apply acrylic varnish between the color and the epoxy? I can’t think why it’s needed. Without looking at your process while you do it, its hard to evaluate where the problem is. I try to keep it simple. Measure it well, mix it very well. Apply with a soft brush, rotate it without heat until hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 3 hours ago, BobP said: I have no idea what “liquid glass” is. Epoxy is fairly resistant to chemical reactions with underlying coatings. You didn’t specify what brand/type of epoxy you used. Liquid glass is a brand of epoxy. They may 2:1 and 1:1 component products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steen Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 23 hours ago, BobP said: I have no idea what “liquid glass” is. Epoxy is fairly resistant to chemical reactions with underlying coatings. You didn’t specify what brand/type of epoxy you used. The pic looks like it might have been a fast cure variety. If it is, that’s your problem. If it’s slow cure variety, which takes at least 30 minutes to harden (the correct type to use) then you need to consider your epoxy mixing and application techniques. Why do you apply acrylic varnish between the color and the epoxy? I can’t think why it’s needed. Without looking at your process while you do it, its hard to evaluate where the problem is. I try to keep it simple. Measure it well, mix it very well. Apply with a soft brush, rotate it without heat until hard. I do the same, because with paints out of spray cans, I had the problem that the epoxy would mix up with the paint and so I tried fixing it because it seems that varnish doesn't have a problem with the epoxy like the paint did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
