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Tbait I appreciate the detail of this bait, well done.

I have always preferred the lead-tuning button in crank baits and have been installing them in the baits I make for my friends and myself. I have a question for you, if you would be so kind as to answer.

The first ones I made were shaped with a pair of pliers, with a small depression drilled into each jaw. I then drilled a hole for the tie wire to pass through. This evolved into a small set of press dies that had openings for the wire to pass through. I now mold a small “mo-jo” style lead tube and place the wire eye in place before pressing the tuning button to shape in the bill.

My question is, do you run the wire through the lead parallel or do you twist the wire together before running it through the tuning button? I am asking this because I seem to have a problem with the wire working the opening in the wire larger, if I leave it parallel. If I twist the wire together it doesn’t elongate the opening but I have a hard time making the bend at the bottom of the bill uniform. Do you think epoxying the wire in place, on the bottom of the bill, with a second smaller layer of lexan would solve this problem?

I guess that is more than one question, sorry.

Jack

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Jack,

If I understood what you are saying, I would think as you pressed each hollowed out (tube) mojo style sinker, each one would press differently and possibly leave the line tie loose at times. Causing the lure an inability to be tuned. I dont think I would consider using epoxy on the wire or a second piece of lexan. I think if there was enough movement the wire and epoxy would begin to seperate from the bottom of your bill eventually anyway, leaving you where you are now. The line tie and bill get more force put on them than any other part of the crank. Casting and retreiving center all of the force to the line tie. A crank bill made of .060 lexan will have some flex to it. Continued flexing will cause the epoxy and 2nd piece of lexan to work loose. I am almost positive. I have had some machine shop work done and pour the lead around the line tie in place. This locks it in. Wires are parallel all the way into the body of the crank.

Mike

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Thanks for the answer.

The system I use now seals the lead around the wire and works well. I do use spacer shimms to protect the lexan. The lead I use is soft enough to be formed tight enough to crimp around the wire.

The biggest problem I have is making the 90 degree bend up the back side of the bib, if I twist the wire. I think I will keep running the wires parallel and run them through a carbon tube and bond this to the back side of the bill.

I have looked at your new lure, again and am more impressed than before. Quality shows.

Jack

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Thanks to everyone for you comments. I am still learning as well. I look to explore new paints shortly. I have been tinkering with making baits on and off for the last 10 years. I look to explore the auto air line as well as perhaps House of Kolor laquers as well. The basics of building cranks stay with you...just like riding a bike. The extra details take time....some times too much thought. But when it comes together, it is rewarding. I threw this bait the other day. 20 degrees and the first pond I came too was froze over. Determined I found an open piece of water and was extremely pleased with the action of this bait.

Happy Holidays too all.

Thanks for such a great website.

I thoroughly enjoy logging on each day and looking at the new designs and paint schemes. Truly amazing work is placed on this website.

Mike

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