Seele Posted July 12, 2022 Report Share Posted July 12, 2022 Hi, Has anyone ever printed a soft plastic mould directly from resin? Is it worth to buy the high temp resin, or is it enough to use normal basic UV resin? Does the soft plastic stick to the cured resin? If not possible has anyone made negative moulds from resin and poured them out with ceramic plaster or Alumilite? How to demould the resin after pouring? It cannot be melted out like FDM printed moulds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seele Posted July 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2022 Found a awesome channel on YT. https://www.youtube.com/c/GulfStreamOutdoors/videos Nice guy, with good videos. Seems to work quite fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted July 21, 2022 Report Share Posted July 21, 2022 I have learned a ton from that channel mostly CAD related since I just have an FDM printer at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hand Crafted Angling Posted September 12, 2022 Report Share Posted September 12, 2022 I have a few molds I’ve printed out of resin and fdm. The resin is much nicer than the fdm at a higher cost. No later lines and no warping issues. If your going to use resin get the syriatch sculpt. It’s the only really consumer option that can handle the heat. There are others but they are a lot more expensive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seele Posted September 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2022 I already have bought the Sculpt. Works pretty well, but needed nearly one bottle to get familar with the resin and the moulds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hand Crafted Angling Posted October 2, 2022 Report Share Posted October 2, 2022 On 9/26/2022 at 4:24 AM, Seele said: I already have bought the Sculpt. Works pretty well, but needed nearly one bottle to get familar with the resin and the moulds. Yeah the molds burn through that resin fairly quickly. Most of the molds I’ve tried use 3/4 of the bottle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seele Posted October 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 I didn't have any burning problems. Did you pour that hot? They are developing a clear Sculpt at the moment, this will be also very interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da_linx Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 No heat problems with anycubic standard resin at 330ºF The real problem with UV resin molds is that they tends to warp due to curing shrinkage (the bigger the mold, the bigger the warping) and you need to apply much pressure to get an optimal mold enclosure, which can result in an eventually mold break… This is how is working for me so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 I am new to resin printing so this is me guessing, but I had anticipated that flatness was going to be an issue I wonder if you could dose the sculpt resin with some tenacious, maintaining most of the heat resistance and get some flexibility to fix the warping. I don't think pinning the mold to together during the cure would help. One possibility is the speed of the cure it stands to reason that as you blast one side of the mold with UV the cross linking would put an internal stress on the part since it does shrink as it cures. I would not be at all surprised if the curing resin acted like ceramics that have to cool very slowly and evenly after they are fired or they crack. Pull the UV back and rotate the mold like on a lure spinner the slower and more even the cure should help with warping. I had anticipated having to touch the mating surfaces to a glass plate with 800 grit paper to make the surfaces decently flat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishermanbt Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 (edited) Has anyone had any luck printing out a positive master and make negative molds with it? I’ve had some okay results making molds from FDM prints in plaster of paris, fast setting two part resin, and two part silicone. I’m pretty limited due to lack of skills in Fusion. Still can’t beat aluminum imho though. Edited October 13, 2022 by Fishermanbt Added text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da_linx Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 2 hours ago, Fishermanbt said: Has anyone had any luck printing out a positive master and make negative molds with it? I’ve had some okay results making molds from FDM prints in plaster of paris, fast setting two part resin, and two part silicone. I’m pretty limited due to lack of skills in Fusion. Still can’t beat aluminum imho though. Of course! You can always print a master and use it as a master… better results than using FDM… Of course, nothing I know can beat aluminium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da_linx Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 6 hours ago, aulrich said: I am new to resin printing so this is me guessing, but I had anticipated that flatness was going to be an issue I wonder if you could dose the sculpt resin with some tenacious, maintaining most of the heat resistance and get some flexibility to fix the warping. I don't think pinning the mold to together during the cure would help. One possibility is the speed of the cure it stands to reason that as you blast one side of the mold with UV the cross linking would put an internal stress on the part since it does shrink as it cures. I would not be at all surprised if the curing resin acted like ceramics that have to cool very slowly and evenly after they are fired or they crack. Pull the UV back and rotate the mold like on a lure spinner the slower and more even the cure should help with warping. I had anticipated having to touch the mating surfaces to a glass plate with 800 grit paper to make the surfaces decently flat Sanding will not help to close the mold, warping exceed the work of a sandpaper… If you are talking about how flat and smooth is the internal side of the mold, I think your better option is making some trials with different inclinations… usually about 40 or 45 dgrees works well… in adition, you can learn something about arctan angle… Flat printing helps with this but you put a lot of tension in the FEP film Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hand Crafted Angling Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 11 hours ago, Da_linx said: No heat problems with anycubic standard resin at 330ºF The real problem with UV resin molds is that they tends to warp due to curing shrinkage (the bigger the mold, the bigger the warping) and you need to apply much pressure to get an optimal mold enclosure, which can result in an eventually mold break… This is how is working for me so far Did you make sure to sand down the elephants foot on the side of the mold that sits on the print bed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hand Crafted Angling Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 12 hours ago, Seele said: I didn't have any burning problems. Did you pour that hot? They are developing a clear Sculpt at the moment, this will be also very interesting. Poor choice of words... I meant the amount of resin used. A lot of my molds were using more than 3/4 a bottle of resin making it much more expensive then fdm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da_linx Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 1 hour ago, Hand Crafted Angling said: Did you make sure to sand down the elephants foot on the side of the mold that sits on the print bed? I am from Spain and I am a pain with the language, so I am not sure if I am catching you… I don’t have elephant foot since I print the mold angled with supports with the external part of the mold orientated to the building plate so I don’t have to worry about that side… do you print with the internal side looking the plate and then sanding the support marks? How does it works? Anyway, printing flat on the building plate (which is the way you can have elephant foot) would probably break the FEP in the long run, with all the problems and risk that this involves… I learned it the hard way with my first printer… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hand Crafted Angling Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 21 hours ago, Da_linx said: I am from Spain and I am a pain with the language, so I am not sure if I am catching you… I don’t have elephant foot since I print the mold angled with supports with the external part of the mold orientated to the building plate so I don’t have to worry about that side… do you print with the internal side looking the plate and then sanding the support marks? How does it works? Anyway, printing flat on the building plate (which is the way you can have elephant foot) would probably break the FEP in the long run, with all the problems and risk that this involves… I learned it the hard way with my first printer… I print it vertically directly on the build plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da_linx Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 1 hour ago, Hand Crafted Angling said: I print it vertically directly on the build plate Ah!!!!! Ok!!!! That’s not much tension to the FEP and you save resin without supports… I tried a time ago with bad results but I will give it a try with my new printer… Just I will be more patient… LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hand Crafted Angling Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 19 hours ago, Da_linx said: Ah!!!!! Ok!!!! That’s not much tension to the FEP and you save resin without supports… I tried a time ago with bad results but I will give it a try with my new printer… Just I will be more patient… LOL I think you would solve most of your warping issues with this method too the supports can cause layer shifts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da_linx Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 1 hour ago, Hand Crafted Angling said: I think you would solve most of your warping issues with this method too the supports can cause layer shifts I will definetly try it with one of my smaller molds and I will compare them new and old… Make sense… the tension is applied to all the surface in a vertical orientation preventing the mold to bend… and real resin saving without the supports The only con I can advance is that the tension is always in the same portion of the FEP putting more stress on it, but in a smaller surface… I think my new printer could do it good this way… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da_linx Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 I usually print a male and a female half of the mold… one with holes and one with cilinders to fit… and I see you print two female molds… I don’t know how my cilinders will print in this orientation, but is Nothing you can not fix printing cilinders appart… Thanks for the tips!!!! I entered this post trying to give some help and I have ended up receiving some… people is awesome LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hand Crafted Angling Posted October 16, 2022 Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 22 hours ago, Da_linx said: I usually print a male and a female half of the mold… one with holes and one with cilinders to fit… and I see you print two female molds… I don’t know how my cilinders will print in this orientation, but is Nothing you can not fix printing cilinders appart… Thanks for the tips!!!! I entered this post trying to give some help and I have ended up receiving some… people is awesome LOL I used to do it the way you are on my fdm. Best way is 2female haves and I’m using 1/4” bolts to hold it together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da_linx Posted October 17, 2022 Report Share Posted October 17, 2022 4 hours ago, Hand Crafted Angling said: I used to do it the way you are on my fdm. Best way is 2female haves and I’m using 1/4” bolts to hold it together. Makes sense in this orientation… I will try and decide what method fits better the way I work to get the better enclosure and the faster system Thank you a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted October 17, 2022 Report Share Posted October 17, 2022 My printer is in my basement where the temperature is 18-21c or 64-71 freedom year round. As I understand it the higher end resins like sculpt like it over 30c. do you guys worry about that or do you have your printer in a warmer place than mine. I am just finishing up a heater to go in my printer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hand Crafted Angling Posted October 17, 2022 Report Share Posted October 17, 2022 38 minutes ago, aulrich said: My printer is in my basement where the temperature is 18-21c or 64-71 freedom year round. As I understand it the higher end resins like sculpt like it over 30c. do you guys worry about that or do you have your printer in a warmer place than mine. I am just finishing up a heater to go in my printer. I have mine in a enclosure. Just a crealety branded grow tent. I threw a mini space heater in there hooked up to a thermostat outlet I had left over from my fishtank days. Works great just don't leave a setup like this with no one home lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted October 17, 2022 Report Share Posted October 17, 2022 A grow tent and a heater is one of the other options, I don't really have the bench space between my FDM printer and a loading press, though the fume control would be easier you can just hang a carbon filter and fan in the tent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
