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Soft plastic mould made from resin

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8 hours ago, aulrich said:

My printer is in my basement where the temperature is 18-21c  or 64-71 freedom year round. As I understand it the higher end resins like sculpt like it over 30c. do you guys worry about that or do you have your printer in a warmer place than mine. 

I am just finishing up a heater to go in my printer.   

I have mine in a room… door always closed and window always open…

I have read a lot about temps… but I never had to worry about it…

Once I found my optimal settings, I have been getting the same results in the winter (even printing at night) and in the summer…

I always use anycubic standard in grey.

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21 hours ago, SIUBASSER said:

Has anyone ever mixed fine steel or aluminum powder with resin to make a mold? I wonder if the addition of the metal would help dissipate some of the heat coming off of the bait.

I don’t think that’s ever been attempted. I have heard of people mixing in glass fibers and dyes into the resin for strength and color. I think the biggest issue would be making sure that it doesn’t just all sink to the bottom because the metal powder would be much denser than the resin. But if you can get it to suspend for the duration of the print it should help some. I know the bolts that I use to clamp my molds together absorb quite a lot of heat.

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Yea the metal powder is probably a really bad idea if it did not destroy your FEP it would get flushed to the side of the tray as the build plate cycled. 

One possibility is to print the mold like a shell  and pour in some thermal conductive epoxy or using thermal conductive epoxy to attach an aluminum heat sink.

I have run into some interesting advancements in  metal FDM printing but I don't think SWMBO will approve of a sintering furnace.

https://thevirtualfoundry.com/

The surface is still to rough at least on the pictures so not quite ready for prime time 

 The commercial metal printers look to be really pricy, but could be useful  in mold making on a commercial scale. From the pictures I have seem the surface finish would be in between Do-IT ES and a CNC. But it would be just like the ES and would need milling to flatten the mating surfaces. 

And to be honest if I won the lottery I would probably go CNC anyway.

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