Flaswimbaiter Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 Just recently I’ve had two lips come out clean with no damage to the lure. Both Baits were resin and I scuffed up lip but did not really do any prep to the lure, But most of my slots are really tight. I’ve been using this method for a while and have even broken a lip without it coming out, so I’m not sure why this happens suddenly. I used Devcon five minute epoxy, I have used superglue in the past but most all failed. Should I be using the same two-ton Epoxy I use a clear coat? What are you guys using as far as adhesive and technique? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ Fisher Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 I use the 30 min D2T, 5 min can turn brittle, IMO and isn't waterproof. Prior to installation, I drill a couple small holes thru the lip where it's inserted in the lure. The epoxy will envelope the lip and flow thru the holes and make a more secure connection. Hope this helps... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrybait Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 I use 2ton epoxy for securing lips in the slop on baits but I think 5min should be ok. I do a little more than "scuff up" the lip though. I do scuff it up with some sand paper but I also use a dremel with the small ball tip and ball tip out some groves on both sides of the lip for a key to lock it in. This is on wood baits and the slots are usually sealed with D2T. Since your baits are resin it might be a good idea to scuff/key up the slot too. I use the same method for both polycarbonate and fiber(circuit board) lips. Also, you may want to reconsider "really tight" lip slots. You may be scraping the glue off and it puts a load on your resin. I always try and maintain the back side and the top of the lip slot perfectly if possible. I have repaired broken lip slots on commercial wake baits for friends by using a hack saw blade down the front of the lip all the way to the top of the lip slot. Then I just push the bottom of the lip to break it free. That way I maintain the back and top of the lip slot making it easy to position the new lip as I epoxy it in using tooth picks at the front of the slot to hold it against the back and top of the slot while the epoxy hardens. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 15 minutes ago, AZ Fisher said: I use the 30 min D2T, 5 min can turn brittle, IMO and isn't waterproof. Prior to installation, I drill a couple small holes thru the lip where it's inserted in the lure. The epoxy will envelope the lip and flow thru the holes and make a more secure connection. Hope this helps... I also drilled small holes through the lip at least 4. I have not had any lips fail with this method. I used some cheap 4hr epoxy from the hardware store that was recommended for marine use I have never had issues with the above method but I did have lips pull that I epoxied that were just scuffed with corse sandpaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted July 20, 2022 Report Share Posted July 20, 2022 Epoxy does need some gap to properly bond. Are you using any release agent on the mold that may not have been cleaned off. A mechanical lock like holes is never a bad idea. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flaswimbaiter Posted July 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2022 Thanks everyone, great advice. I will prep the bait, drill holes and horizontal groves on the lip and switch to the 2 ton waterproof epoxy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
