Clear Coats KBS vs UV vs Epoxy - durability against teeth and hooks

[TroutSupport.com]

What are you guys finding to be the most durabe top coat? (and clear non yellowing)? 

I love KBS but something in my paint or top coat is 'bubbling' when using scented oils.  Top coat looks great after hang and dry, but after using it a couple times the scent or the carrier is causing the KBS and the paint to bubble up... the scent oil or the carrier in the scent is basically making the KBS 'bubble' / get soft ... like a paint remover would. 

Anyway, I'm looking to try something else but my fish have teeth and I use sharpest hooks I can get. 

What's the hardest and clearest now that UV and other Epoxy coatings have been out a while? 

[mark poulson]

This is what I learned when I made jointed swimbaits out of wood.

Glue epoxy, like D2T, is the hardest, but it will crack off if you hit rocks.

Decoupage epoxy, like Etex lite, will give a more forgiving topcoat, but teeth will penetrate it, so be sure you wood is really well sealed.

[TroutSupport.com]

has Devcon 2T gotten better on yellowing in sunlight?   are there any UV clears that have the adhesion that teh epoxies have?

[Chris Catignani]

The UV resin is non yellowing. I use it for various tasks...not so much as lure finish. I see the Engineered Angler uses UV resin as a coat. I'm using FlexCoat because I just have that for rods. I have used both the High Build and the Rod Builders.

High Build set up time is longer than Rod Builders.
Usually (for rods) I would use High Build for thread work and Rod Builders for handle assembly.

 

Edited August 9, 2022 by Chris Catignani

[JD_mudbug]

I have some baits coated from Jan-Feb of 2018 with D2T. No yellowing yet. I usually write my initials and date made inside the joint or somewhere on the bait. I don't leave my baits out in the sun when not is use.  Make sure you get the 2 Ton 30 minute one. The 5 minute Devcon will yellow. The packaging does look similar.  Even though the package says 30 minutes, it is more like 10-15 minutes before it starts to set.

I also like to use T type trebles or Ewg trebles to cut down on rash. I will sometimes T bend some trebles like the Ali 35647 model if I don't want to spend for Owner ST-35s or Mustad KVDs.

I have not used UV yet. Once  I get around to building a UV light set up, I am going to try the following UV resin

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YMTFM7D/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B08YMTFM7D&linkCode=as2&tag=engineereda06-20&linkId=af7e71c648cd23380fcbc3423ddb6bf9

Engineered Angler's video provides some great info

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVyA-F4tosE&t=20s

You would need at least two coats of UV to hold up to teeth, maybe more. I think the speed of curing is a huge plus. I also like how you can put it on a rotisserie to level it out before turning on the lights.

Mark is correct on D2T glue type vs. Etex decoupage type.  D2T is very tooth and hook rash resistant. When it does fail, it seems more likely a piece will chip off than with Etex.  Damn bridges. I also think if the wood is not completely dry that D2T is more likely to crack from wood expansion. It is rare but I have seen it a couple of times. D2T is easy to find in a double syringe for $6 in my area. My small local hardware store carries it.  I would suggest you try that before getting the bigger bottles. D2T is very easy to use. I mix by eye even when using the larger bottles. I like it for pike/musky waters. I also noticed on the last few packages I bought they had printed a Use By date on them. I don't remember that in the past. I like to buy it in the store if possible. I like to look at the packages so I can buy the clearest one and the newest one.

Etex is easier for teeth to penetrate but has a better chance of surviving rocks. I have a few Etex coated wooden baits that have small dents but the Etex top coat is still intact.  It just flexed with dent. I have several Etex baits going on 5 years and no yellowing either. I think Etex is a bit more temperamental than D2T. I have to pay more attention to mixing and environmental conditions with Etex.

I have recoated damaged sections of both types of epoxy and the patches have held so far. 

[Flaswimbaiter]

I agree with JD, if applied properly D2T will chip but not peel. I took one of my wood junk baits fishing for peas in Miami and they destroyed it and even took out chucks and pulled out the last segment, but the rest of the clear was still solid. 

[TroutSupport.com]

thanks for all the input guys!

[BobP]

I’ve clearcoated hundreds of baits with D2T epoxy, moisture cured urethane (MCU), and Chinese uv cured resin.  I really like MCU for it’s ease of application, gloss, and toughness in a thin coating.  I like uv resin for its quick cure. I like D2T because it’s tough in a thick coating that resists hook rash.  But there are quirks to each choice and each can have problems.  MCU often has storage problems. UV resin (the Chinese brand I tried) became sticky months after curing.  D2T will eventually yellow (but if measured and mixed really well it will be some years).  Choice may vary according to what you build, how often you build, and the purpose you build for.  I’m an occasional hobby builder.  I like the advantages of MCU and UV resin but my default has long been D2T.  It’s still chugging along when my UV resin has failed and my MCU has turned to jelly in its storage can.

[Hillbilly voodoo]

Has anyone tried KBS as the first coat and UV resin coats to add a thicker more flexible coat on top of The KBS?

just something I have been thinking about and may have to test soon 

[Nathan]

This is a product I’ve been using for about a year.I’ve only used the brush on type.it is a UV cure product that has a great shine to it and is very tough

 Brush on a thin coat, rotate a few minutes to level out and hit with a hand torch to set. Add another coat if needed and repeat. When your done clear coating set in the sun for a few minutes to make sure it’s hardened all the way through..Nathan

[Flaswimbaiter]

23 hours ago, Nathan said:

This is a product I’ve been using for about a year.I’ve only used the brush on type.it is a UV cure product that has a great shine to it and is very tough

 Brush on a thin coat, rotate a few minutes to level out and hit with a hand torch to set. Add another coat if needed and repeat. When your done clear coating set in the sun for a few minutes to make sure it’s hardened all the way through..Nathan

 

 

 

Have you fished it with any toothy fish? Have you chipped any and the rest stays solid? Meaning no water intrusion.