gluppy Posted May 25, 2023 Report Share Posted May 25, 2023 Hey everyone I just started lure making using a 3d printer. I decided to try to create a slow sinking pike glide/jerkbait. I'm having an issue where any small jerk makes the bait over turn when trying to walk it. I was wondering if people with more experience would know how to fix it? I was thinking maybe increasing the belly depth would improve the walking action. Image for reference bait is 9.5cm in length and about 1cm thick, ~26 grams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outlaw4 Posted May 25, 2023 Report Share Posted May 25, 2023 most glides have a lot of belly weight, dropping the belly might help if it moves weight down. Does it sink level? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gluppy Posted May 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2023 59 minutes ago, Outlaw4 said: most glides have a lot of belly weight, dropping the belly might help if it moves weight down. Does it sink level? With a wire leader, the lure sinks slightly nose down. I also added an air pocket in the top half of the lure to shift weight to the bottom. Would I want to shift the weight a bit towards the tail so that the sinking levels out a bit more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Epp Posted May 25, 2023 Report Share Posted May 25, 2023 I think @Outlaw4 has a good point about the weight. Keeping the weight down in the lure close to the belly might help keep it from rolling over and help it swim more upright. Generally speaking, keeping the lure sitting level can be really helpful. I've made some that sat nose up or down and still swam fine, but level is generally the way to go. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted May 26, 2023 Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 I an not sure you will get the action you want with a flat sided bail ( I am about to start my own design thread)and I am just guessing but it looks like you are printing 2 halves and gluing everything inside. For my stuff I have been avoiding 2 part baits like the plague. With my lures what I try to end up with is a 3d printed equivalent hand carved lure blank. This shows the idea reasonably, this lure was printed belly up. the wire harness is a slot filled with CA glue and baking soda the ballast are two 00 buck lead shot. I have used steel slingshot ammo too. The back does take some sanding but a layer of CA glue and some sanding get rid of most of the layer lines and marks from the supports. I have used both thru wire and wire twist eyes and twist eyes seem to stand up to the pike I fish. So for now they are my default. % infill is another tool that is really useful for floater divers I just use 10% double line infill. With sinking lure I use at least 35%. With my whitefish project I am planning to print it so it it has the density as if I had made it from maple. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted May 26, 2023 Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 Oh one more thing I found interesting filaments while going down the 3d printed RC planes rabbit trail. they are foaming or pre-foamed filaments. I use the pre-foamed stuff the filament floats https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0B1DGSRR4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Sometimes 3d printing a shape can give it a weird weight distribution i noticed that with the few thingivers lure that I tried a first and they all failed. The floating filament gives you a bit of buffer for that. IIRC Larry Dalberg has a video showing the weight distribution for different actions of glide baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gluppy Posted May 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 On 5/25/2023 at 12:21 PM, Big Epp said: I think @Outlaw4 has a good point about the weight. Keeping the weight down in the lure close to the belly might help keep it from rolling over and help it swim more upright. Generally speaking, keeping the lure sitting level can be really helpful. I've made some that sat nose up or down and still swam fine, but level is generally the way to go. I guess in my next print ill probably try to make the lure a bit slimmer and a bit deeper in the belly. Hopefully that will stop it from almost turning backwards when I jerk it a bit too hard On 5/25/2023 at 10:58 PM, aulrich said: I an not sure you will get the action you want with a flat sided bail ( I am about to start my own design thread)and I am just guessing but it looks like you are printing 2 halves and gluing everything inside. For my stuff I have been avoiding 2 part baits like the plague. With my lures what I try to end up with is a 3d printed equivalent hand carved lure blank. This shows the idea reasonably, this lure was printed belly up. the wire harness is a slot filled with CA glue and baking soda the ballast are two 00 buck lead shot. I have used steel slingshot ammo too. The back does take some sanding but a layer of CA glue and some sanding get rid of most of the layer lines and marks from the supports. I have used both thru wire and wire twist eyes and twist eyes seem to stand up to the pike I fish. So for now they are my default. % infill is another tool that is really useful for floater divers I just use 10% double line infill. With sinking lure I use at least 35%. With my whitefish project I am planning to print it so it it has the density as if I had made it from maple. Yep that's correct, I'm currently just printing the holes for my handmade twisted wire eyes and epoxying everything together. How do you manage to avoid 2 part baits, do you just print the entire thing in 1 piece and drill out the required areas manually? Do you typically just have them solidly filled or do you also have a small air pocket on the top to keep the bait rightside up? I'm currently of the mind that the air pocket is required but would like to know if you just print the entire thing as one solid block. The throughwire method is definitely something i have considered but I don't really have a nice wire bending setup for them currently so I just have the screw eye holes printed into each half of the lure. Maybe it is a bit easier to do than I think? On 5/25/2023 at 11:11 PM, aulrich said: IIRC Larry Dalberg has a video showing the weight distribution for different actions of glide baits I'll definitely take a look at this! Thanks for all the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted May 28, 2023 Report Share Posted May 28, 2023 I print the holes, I try not to do any but filling and sanding after the print. 3 walls and 10% 2 line infill. So the inside of the bait is mostly air. To date I have not had a lure body break, but I have lost the of lip or two to bad glue up. The biggest issue I need to fix is how to do a rattle. I don't think having a hole for a commercial rattle will work because oddly the hole would end up adding weight high in the body ( I think) messing with the action. Think I should be able print in a rattle. But It will double the cad work. since I would have to design the support and stiffening members on the inside of the bait. Then during the print job, I can trigger a pause so I can drop in a ball bearing or some other rattle or ballast. then finish the print. This is how I lay them out to print For scale the big hole fits a .25 ball bearing total length 6" I was going to take a dud body to the bandsaw then I remembered preview mode on the slicer red is outside surface green is the inside wall yellow is support even like this I could pause the print and drop a bead or 2 in one of the little cells for a rattle The blue here is external support the interface between the support material and the body is where 95% of the sanding is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted May 28, 2023 Report Share Posted May 28, 2023 For a duller thud, I use 1/4" lead shot balls. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
