Hillbilly voodoo Posted August 24, 2023 Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 Before I resort to making one does anyone know if there is a mold available for screw in lead belly weights?The weights commonly used for suicks and phantoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted August 24, 2023 Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 I don't know of any that are specific to belly weights. However here are some you can use or modify. https://store.do-itmolds.com/Worm-Nose-SinkerbrSz-116-18-316-14-516-38brHk-NAbrCollar-Barb_p_1097.html https://store.do-itmolds.com/Finesse-Drop-Shot-SinkerbrSz-132-116-18-316-14-38-12-58_p_688.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted August 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 Here is what I am looking for. They tread into a brass insert installed in a hard bait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickQ Posted August 24, 2023 Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 (edited) Yes there is a mold but is in Europe. I have the mold and when I order it in Germany along with other stuff the shipping was not funny. The ones in the above picture are not screwing properly into soft baits because the brass is thin and the threads are for hard baits. Here are the finished products out of the mold I have. They can be slotted to rig an underbelly rig for Pike and Muskie or unslotted to be used just as weights. Edited August 24, 2023 by NickQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted August 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 Not a corckscrew it’s a bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickQ Posted August 24, 2023 Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 If you're looking to insert them into a hard bait then yes you need the bolt fine thread. If you're looking to insert them into soft bait than cork screw is to be used. The mold can be easily modified to accept threaded bolt but I rarely fish hard baits. They are to expensive to lose them compared with soft baits. I pour my own so for me is a no brainer to use soft baits. Every year I go with my guys in the very North of Quebec to fish for Pike and walleye and the 8" Angling AI fluke mold makes some killer baits. Pike choke on them. And I rig them with those cork screw weights slotted to hold the underbelly rig for two treble hooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted August 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2023 Oh those would be great for soft plastics but I need these weights for a hybrid bait and dive & rise jerk baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basskat Posted August 27, 2023 Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 I've used the do-it-yourself stand up head for soft plastics. Pour it without the hook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted August 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2023 Only looking for a proper mold or I will make one or have one made I am debating another custom soft plastic mold so may have to add this if I do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 Hillbilly at some point I will need to get your CNC contact from you. Do you do your own CAD work or does your CNC contact do it. I need to start learning designing with standard machining in mind I can get away with different things 3d printing. For my proto typing I print a mold of a mold. Buy high temp silicon has a very limited lifetime (20 castings ish according to the internet) When I finalize the shape I will want a proper mold so I need to start out with the ultimate end goal in mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted August 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 57 minutes ago, aulrich said: Hillbilly at some point I will need to get your CNC contact from you. Do you do your own CAD work or does your CNC contact do it. I need to start learning designing with standard machining in mind I can get away with different things 3d printing. For my proto typing I print a mold of a mold. Buy high temp silicon has a very limited lifetime (20 castings ish according to the internet) When I finalize the shape I will want a proper mold so I need to start out with the ultimate end goal in mind He is a member of the forum “CNC molds N stuff”. He has been a great guy to deal with and has been very helpful. I just provided the design (we did make tweaks through discussion too) and he took care of the computer work. The one thing to remember is it is custom work and he does not do knockoffs(big respect from me for having this rule). You also need to be patient as it takes time and will not be fast as he is busy. I just respect that it’s custom work and he does a good job with the mindset it will be done when it’s done Bob has my recommendation anytime as he is straight forward and has been honest 2 traits that go a long ways in my books 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted August 28, 2023 Report Share Posted August 28, 2023 For proto typing my swimbait head this is the process I am using. In the video he uses a resin printer, I just used my cheaper FDM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted August 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2023 53 minutes ago, CNC Molds N Stuff said: Sorry, for the time it takes for customs. Its not just that I am busy, which I usually am, but also that I am a one man shop and things happen. Not the least of which is that because my CNC shop is next to my house "people" do not always respect my work/home boundaries. Both ways. When I first started I tried to be the, "fast turn around custom guy," but for me it just didn't turn out to be possible. Now I just keep working my way down the list and I keep adding jobs to the end of the list. Thank you very much for the mention. I was only honest and thanks again for the molds. That project has taken a major change since the original pic you seen. I downsized the body so it fits all three tails nicer, casts nicer and gets better action. Everything moves as it should too. First 4 pretty versions are being clear coat right now. No need to apologize about the time it takes and just keep doing as you are doing. Honest service and good end product is more important than fast turnaround in my opinion We will likely talk in the new year as I am thinking big aggressive paddle tail for my 2024 musky trip. Starting from scratch on this one as it will be a different body The original will be my “finesse” bait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted September 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2023 3 hours ago, CNC Molds N Stuff said: You know I would love to see some of your completed baits. Either here in the gallery or in email if prefer not to make them public. Two more clear coats to go and 5 nightshifts before the will be finished. The hassle of toothy fish is a five day clear coat process Once they are done I will make a pic or two of all 3 options. Maybe some video of the action if I can find some clear water and no wind. The body moves differently with each tail even Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted September 3, 2023 Report Share Posted September 3, 2023 (edited) Got my first casting of the prototype and it seems to have worked, I do need to test. Just a hair over 1/4oz looking to also have 3/8 and 1/2. The bait is a 6" do-it shad it's serous pike candy. The bottom picture is the mold of the mold. Edited September 3, 2023 by aulrich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted September 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2023 2 minutes ago, aulrich said: Got my first casting of the proto type and it seems to have worked, I do need to test. So let’s make sure I got this right that is a 3D printed mold that can handle hot lead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted September 3, 2023 Report Share Posted September 3, 2023 (edited) No, the 3d printed part is the mold for the mold. The lead is poured into Smooth-ON Mold Max 60. Mind you you could possibly do pewter in some resin 3d prints, one resin I have can handle 400f. think of the printed part as a split master and mold box in one Edited September 3, 2023 by aulrich 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted September 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2023 8 minutes ago, aulrich said: No, the 3d printed part is the mold for the mold. The lead is poured into Smooth-ON Mold Max 60. Mind you you could possibly do pewter in some resin 3d prints, one resin I have can handle 400f. think of the printed part as a split master and mold box in one Ok I need to head into Edmonton on my days off for another big bucket of mold max 30 anyway so I think I will test out a small amount of mold max 60 for a lead mold kinda went crazy in the last 2 weeks and have a handful of prototype jerk baits to mold so might as well try a lead mold well I am at it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted September 3, 2023 Report Share Posted September 3, 2023 The down side is the short duty cycle, according to the internet somewhere around 25 castings, but for personal use and prototyping that is OK. I was really please that I did not damage the mold master I can always print another but it's nice to get more than one use out of parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted September 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2023 23 minutes ago, aulrich said: The down side is the short duty cycle, according to the internet somewhere around 25 castings, but for personal use and prototyping that is OK. I was really please that I did not damage the mold master I can always print another but it's nice to get more than one use out of parts. It will at least give me an idea if I want to resort to molding my own weights or push hard to source them in bulk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted September 4, 2023 Report Share Posted September 4, 2023 Just came back from the swim test. it worked like a charm, the action went a bit down the tail, but I can work it much faster without blowing out. The top line tie was a bit of a gamble I was hoping it would work for ice fishing giving a horizontal presentation and a quick test off the dock I got pretty much what I wanted I suspect it will kick butt through the ice. just need a real field test to see if I have heavy enough eye hardware good thing I have a trip coming up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
