Dual injection jerk bait bleeding

[Jinx]

Having issues with bleeding and wanted to get thoughts. I’ve done the research and found viscosity and temp play a major role. I’m shooting at 300-320 and one side of my laminate is looking great. The other side bleeds?! I have also discovered my C-block is not sitting level on the mold it self. Could this be the issue? I’ve attached pictures. It has done this same thing every time. 20 something baits. It’s not the bleeding block because I shot a perfect laminate in a 7 inch senko mold. Any help much appreciated! 

[basskat]

My fluke mold does this as well. I suspect the plastic, not exactly sure how to say it, pools up trying to push into the narrow tail causing the two colors to mix. A lot of commercial baits have this issue as well.

I shot at a lot of different temps and still get it to some degree.

[Jinx]

I don’t know how the YouTube guys are getting perfect baits. Lol. Makes me upset

[mark poulson]

My first step would be to even up the two molds so the blending block sits level.  That would eliminate one possible problem.

Then use a process of elimination to see what the problem is.

[Jinx]

And this is what I was afraid of. Brand new mold from a high reputable company. I sent them an email about it. I don’t want to grind on it and mess it up. Thank you for the help. I had a feeling it shooting perfect in one mold ( blending block sits flat) versus the jerk bait mold (not flat) is allowing me to shoot at a slight angle causing more plastic to fill in the belly causing the bleed

[Jinx]

Well update. Talked to the manufacturer and they said it was in tolerance and explained the whole temperature thing again. Makes zero sense. Apparently if you use the word C-block that throws into a different conversation. I know I am using a blending block. It is just fustrating 

[Fishermanbt]

In my opinion I don’t think the offset is going to be the culprit problem. If you want to see if it is try shimming up that side of the mold with some black tape so the block sits flat. I’d just put small cut pieces on either side of the sprue. 

I will second the aforementioned post in that my 4 cavity and single cavity fluke from other companies than yours do the same thing. 

[Jinx]

Thanks for the advice. I didn’t even think about shimming. I will try that. I’m also going to clamp the block to the mold. I noticed the block is a little loose in the mold which is understandable, and doing a dry run it was slighting spinning and not parallel

[Fishermanbt]

It just dawned on me. Rather than black tape you could try aluminum tape used for HAVAC duct work. Very sticky and stays put even when hot. I have a defective mold I bought at discount due to a machining error that causes flashing on two cavities. I used the aluminum tape and it worked great. 

[Jinx]

I was 100% looking for some as soon as you said shim it out lol. I have some somewhere. I will definitely go that route. I hope I get this fixed tonight. It is bothering the crap out me scouring YouTube and seeing all these wonderful perfect lines and I have this bleeding nonsense

[Jinx]

Well I thank you all for the advice. It is shooting fantastically!!j

[Fishermanbt]

By gosh it did fix it. I stand corrected. That is very easy on the eye color combo right there!  I’d be interested in the mix if you wouldn’t mind sharing. I could see that being appealing to the smallmouth. Heck, I’d throw that at the crappie and some saltwater species too. 

[Jinx]

Thanks! It was actually a friend that wanted that combo! The key for me was at 315 degrees and slowing down tremendously! Here’s the break down! 
Top:

watermelon 5 drops

pinch of green high lite

black and red .015

Bottom:

20 drops of blaze orange

5-7 drops of black

[alsworms]

Sweet looking color.  Well done!!! 

[Jinx]

Thanks! When I get good one day I’ll start selling stuff. I’ve literally been at it  for only 3 weeks lol. 

[DaveMc1]

On 9/21/2023 at 10:45 AM, Jinx said:

Well update. Talked to the manufacturer and they said it was in tolerance and explained the whole temperature thing again. Makes zero sense. Apparently if you use the word C-block that throws into a different conversation. I know I am using a blending block. It is just fustrating 

Temperatures are EVERYTHING when it comes to laminates. It is how viscosity is controlled and if your temps are off you will experience exactly what you did there........although I do believe the hook slot has a hand in that as well (as is seen in a lot of flukes)

C-Block is a Camo Block, kind of a swirl block ( but not a real swirl) that will never laminate, why your use of the word caused confusion. Blending block or laminate block is the correct term. 

[Jinx]

Oh I learned very quickly not to call a blending block a c-block. My temps were all pretty close to each other every time I shot but it was more the speed. Once I learned to control it beautiful laminates came out. Thanks again! 

[alsworms]

5 hours ago, Jinx said:

Thanks! When I get good one day I’ll start selling stuff. I’ve literally been at it  for only 3 weeks lol. 

I would absolutely buy a bunch from you.  Flukes are on fire right now and I'm always looking for something different out there.  Keep up the good work!!

 

[Jinx]

Well you may just be my first order lol. Here are some more I did today

[Jinx]

[Jinx]

I also have 7 inch senko and finesse worms. 

[Les Young]

[Miamisheriff]

The uneven mold condition at the top is just poor quality machining work. The mold cavities are deeper on one side than the other. Which means that the deeper cavity side needs more plastic than the other to fill. Which is why you are getting inconstant results. A blending block will inject the same amount of plastic at a time. 

[Jinx]

Thanks for the advice. After slowing down I think I have built some “muscle memory”. 

[DaveMc1]

15 hours ago, Miamisheriff said:

The uneven mold condition at the top is just poor quality machining work. The mold cavities are deeper on one side than the other. Which means that the deeper cavity side needs more plastic than the other to fill. Which is why you are getting inconstant results. A blending block will inject the same amount of plastic at a time. 

Litterally has nothing to do with poor quality machining. The nose (ie the gate) MUST be 50/50 in the mold, which it is, and the part line is lined up as such. A proper fluke (zoom style) the belly extends deeper in the mold than the back does and has a hook slot (which is the issue at hand). The hook slot interrupts the flow of plastic and when injecting too fast causes both colours to mix more in the cavity as was seen. Hence when he slowed down with the injector he saw better results. Also why on many minnow style baits that have a larger belly cavity without a hook slot you are able to get clean laminates fairly effortlessly.