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Finesse Worm Pouring

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Alright gents! New questions?! Just got a a cheap ole hot plate (griddle) and was start some dual color finesse worms. So researching shows 250 degrees. Check. Now when I’m ready to put the second color, do I leave it on the hot plate at 250? Won’t the colors mix? Also, how long to let them “bake” and at what temperature? Here’s a picture of the first set. Not terrible for first attemptIMG_3119.thumb.jpeg.cf50107a9bc7e5dae5c32b746a4ca4f7.jpeg71746416384__54D2558A-C419-42F5-920F-E03E9DB2F13F.thumb.jpeg.8a34127e65836f286d03fef6b34f25f1.jpeg

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I'll probably take crap for this, but I never used a thermostat.  When the plastic is ready, it's ready.........and you'll learn pretty quick when that is.

Not sure what type of plastic you're using, but I used MF and that stuff poured like a gem rather I wanted the colors to sort of run together or just a straight laminate.  For a laminate, I would wait about 20 to 30 seconds before adding the top pour, but you don't wanna wait too long or they won't connect properly and you'll have gaps in the worm.  Dangit......there's a term for that, but I can't think of the name right now.  Maybe someone can jump in and save me.  LOL.

I would just keep my hot plate between medium and high at all times and just keep an eye on the cup you're warming up.  I worked with cups almost exclusively and I would add everything to cold plastic first.  Your color, glitter, hi-lite......whatever's going in there worked best with cold plastisol.  When heating your cup, you want the plastic to be at a nice thin pourable stream........kind of like synthetic oil.  From that point, you want to keep it just about there without burning it. 

Once you get the hang of it, you can do split veins as well, especially with MF.  Pouring that second color will actually force the vein to the sides of the mold, giving it that "split" effect.  Really cool stuff!!  Oh and just to be clear, I'm sure other brands will work just fine.  Many of those brands were not available when I poured, so I can't say either way, but MF was my go-to brand. 

Your worms looks really nice, especially for a first run!! Most of the answers you're looking for you will stumble on yourself as you continue to pour.  Just keep at it!!

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Thank you sir for the in depth explanation! I’ve poured solid color worms without the use of the hot plate and they were pretty good. I was trying to do the laminate with these but like everything else practice makes perfect! I’m sure these worms will catch fish just like others. Just trying to get things dialed in. I had some left over purple from the flukes I made and thought the chartreuse paired nicely. Next time I won’t put the flake so heavily because it went straight to the top lol

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32 minutes ago, alsworms said:

I'll probably take crap for this, but I never used a thermostat.  When the plastic is ready, it's ready.........and you'll learn pretty quick when that is.

Not sure what type of plastic you're using, but I used MF and that stuff poured like a gem rather I wanted the colors to sort of run together or just a straight laminate.  For a laminate, I would wait about 20 to 30 seconds before adding the top pour, but you don't wanna wait too long or they won't connect properly and you'll have gaps in the worm.  Dangit......there's a term for that, but I can't think of the name right now.  Maybe someone can jump in and save me.  LOL.

I would just keep my hot plate between medium and high at all times and just keep an eye on the cup you're warming up.  I worked with cups almost exclusively and I would add everything to cold plastic first.  Your color, glitter, hi-lite......whatever's going in there worked best with cold plastisol.  When heating your cup, you want the plastic to be at a nice thin pourable stream........kind of like synthetic oil.  From that point, you want to keep it just about there without burning it. 

Once you get the hang of it, you can do split veins as well, especially with MF.  Pouring that second color will actually force the vein to the sides of the mold, giving it that "split" effect.  Really cool stuff!!  Oh and just to be clear, I'm sure other brands will work just fine.  Many of those brands were not available when I poured, so I can't say either way, but MF was my go-to brand. 

Your worms looks really nice, especially for a first run!! Most of the answers you're looking for you will stumble on yourself as you continue to pour.  Just keep at it!!

cold cracking

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2 hours ago, Jig Man said:

Will your mold take a lamination plate?  I’ve found them handy for keeping colors from mixing.

I've never seen a mold with a lamination plate.  Do you remove the plate while the plastic is still hot, or do you pour each half separately, and rely on the second half's heat to bond it to the first half?

Edited by mark poulson
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4 hours ago, mark poulson said:

I've never seen a mold with a lamination plate.  Do you remove the plate while the plastic is still hot, or do you pour each half separately, and rely on the second half's heat to bond it to the first half?

I make mine out of aluminum flashing.  I put it in the mold and inject both sides,  open the mold remove the plate and the off side baits, close the mold and inject the other color.

IMG_0489.jpeg

Edited by Jig Man
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