Repainting Existing Baits

[William]

I see that several of the members repaint existing lures with new patterns and finishes. Can someone tell me what type of lure prep is required,(other than general cleaning) before repainting. I have tons of both wooden and plastic lures that could be rebirthed!

Thanks,

[KcDano]

Grey 3M Scotchbrite Pad will scuff the paint to provide a new tooth for your new finish! Can wash-out and re-used many times! Auto paint suppliers will carry these. If you find that there are defects in the finish that require feathering or filling; sandpaper will better serve you. However, if the finish is good and only needs to be scuffed prior to refinishing, Scotchbrite is the way!

[onlybass]

Mask lips,remove hardware.Remove 3d eyes.Make sure bait is smooth and clean,any imperfections(dents,scratches,bumps in original paint and glitter)will show later,especially after clear coat.Wipe bait to remove any oils from hands.Prime and paint.Clear coat.I only strip original paint when absolutely necessary.

[Finneous Fogg]

IMHO I personally like to sand a bait down to the bare wood or plastic. Yeah it does take a LOT more time. But I think you end up with a better bait that isn't quite as heavy. Plus I really don't like the heavy build look you get when surface paint is just scuffed and repainted.

Another way of cleaning up the baits is by sandblasting. But that's something I've only heard about and never tried.

[SpoRoller]

Most of the time I just "scuff" the original topcoat so the primer has something to adhere to. However, there is a lot of trial-and-error for a few types of baits. Plastic baits are less forgiving (my opinion) than wood baits when it comes to the added weight. Some styles you are better off sanding all the paint off rather than scuffing the surface. For example, if you just scuff a suspending jerkbait and then repaint you might make it a slow sinker rather than a suspender. Topwater baits are another example of this.

For most of my sanding I use those soft foam sanding blocks your wife (or you, it is the 21st Century) might have for doing fingernails. You can get them at any beauty supply store. I don't know how much they cost, my wife gets them when I need more.

As mentioned already, you want to fill in any imperfections on the bait before priming. They might not look like much while painting but will stick out like a sore thumb after you apply the topcoat.

[Terrydabassman]

These are all refinished baits. I sand them down to the bare plastic or wood also. Especially on suspending models where weight is critical. Then primer, paint scheme, then epoxy top coat.

[commander]

could you please tell me what kind and what brands of paint,primer and epoxy topcoat you use. received an airbrush paasche vl for christmas and am going to start painting some lures. thank you

[bladesandbaits]

William,depends on the bait but 98% of the time steel wool then scotch brite,then sand with 300 grit. Then rinse off with warm water (no detergent) and let air dry.

Then use fine line vinyl masking tape to mask the lip.(it stretches and conforms to the lip and lure shape well)up close where the lip joins body and trim if necessary.

Then wrap remainder of bare lip in tin foil (area where lip joins the body is only part needs to be mask) because tin foil is easy to put on and take off.

Less expensive too!

Wipe off with clothe dipped in lacquer thinner lightly

Then blow off with compressed air

Finally hit it with a tack cloth and prime.

If repair is needed such as filling cracks and damage then all is done in the shop.

I admit to being lazy so I perform all these tasks with the exeption of rinsing,blowing off,and wiping with tack cloth and thinner rag in my lazyboy chair with an old sheet in my lap to catch debree.Oh yea hopefully watching fishing show

The rest is done in the shop

This is only for re-paint.And if I am repainting a re-paint it just depends on the lure and what topcoat was used. If you are going to use devcon or some other epoxy I dont know what will happen as far as a wieght issue.

I have never had a problem with one of my re-paints killing the action of a bait or changing the suspending qualities either and I probably paint close to 2000 a year.(40 a week average)

Try sanding a mann's strech 20 with glitter back down to the bare plastic.You may do it after you soak the thing in acetone for a while

The more you sand or scotch brite,the more the topcoat rolls up like bubble gum.

Like "Spo" said its just trial and error.Until you have run across one that don't cooperate,I would start buy sanding and preping without taking it down to the raw material.Since they are your baits you want to revitalize,what have you got to loose : Then break out the elbow grease and a?s busting when you have too.Just my 2 cents,B&B

[SpoRoller]

"Try sanding a mann's strech 20 with glitter back down to the bare plastic.You may do it after you soak the thing in acetone for a while

The more you sand or scotch brite' date='the more the topcoat rolls up like bubble gum. "[/quote']

LOL Blade!!!!! You ain't BSing there! Bad thing with that Mann's glitter coat is when you say "the heck with it" and prime it you get that orange peel look to the bait.

[William]

Hey - Guys - thanks much for the suggestions. I have actually started to prep a couple of old Bagleys for new colors. I will get them posted when they are complete.