Add wire keeper??

[JayC37jigs]

Ok.. I’m one of those. Wonder if I can make something better kinda people sometimes. Which is dangerous and I’d like to say I think I learned to know when not to. With that being said I’ve modified several of my molds. THE REAL QUESTION is— I see videos of people who modify or add a wire keeper to some of there molds that don’t have one. I’m asking you great people who pour your own- does it cause pouring issues as far as getting a full mold cavity fill??? For years I’ve modified ones that I wanted to have a wire keeper by tying it straight to the shank after it is poured and painted. Then super gluing the threads. It is affective, however takes time. Which I don’t have much. So, I’d like to hear your feedback. Is it worth trying to pour with adding a wire keeper to my mold or will I just get frustrated with the amount that don’t fully pour??

[cadman]

If you're going to add a wire keeper, put a relief gap somewhere in the head for air to escape when the lead pours in. You only have to do it to one half of the mold. Maybe you don't even need that. put the keeper in and just try it.

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[JayC37jigs]

4 hours ago, cadman said:

If you're going to add a wire keeper, put a relief gap somewhere in the head for air to escape when the lead pours in. You only have to do it to one half of the mold. Maybe you don't even need that. put the keeper in and just try it.

 

Like a small Chanel air Chanel like some of the molds have? 

[JayC37jigs]

4 hours ago, cadman said:

If you're going to add a wire keeper, put a relief gap somewhere in the head for air to escape when the lead pours in. You only have to do it to one half of the mold. Maybe you don't even need that. put the keeper in and just try it.

 

Like a small Chanel air Chanel like some of the molds have? 

[JayC37jigs]

4 hours ago, cadman said:

If you're going to add a wire keeper, put a relief gap somewhere in the head for air to escape when the lead pours in. You only have to do it to one half of the mold. Maybe you don't even need that. put the keeper in and just try it.

 

Also, thanks Cadman! 
I had thought about doing that to one of my other molds that I have some trouble with. Not sure why they have them on some mold designs and not others

[cadman]

8 minutes ago, Jason Diddle said:

4 hours ago, cadman said:

If you're going to add a wire keeper, put a relief gap somewhere in the head for air to escape when the lead pours in. You only have to do it to one half of the mold. Maybe you don't even need that. put the keeper in and just try it.

 

Like a small Chanel air Chanel like some of the molds have? 

Yes

[cadman]

3 minutes ago, Jason Diddle said:

Also, thanks Cadman! 
I had thought about doing that to one of my other molds that I have some trouble with. Not sure why they have them on some mold designs and not others

I always have thought the same thing. They are usually gapped where the lead keeper is on the mold. Reason being, that is the hardest and the lowest part of the mold where lead needs to fill. Many guys have problems filling the lower part of the mold. If all molds would have these slits for the air to escape, I think many newbies would have less problems.

[green]

I modified a horse head underspin to add a wire keeper. I actually reduce the jig weight as I filled in a part of the head. No issues with fillout.

If you do get issues, turning up the temp on the lead often helps.

[Dink Master]

Watch this - 

and this - 

 

[JayC37jigs]

On 6/23/2024 at 10:48 PM, Dink Master said:

Watch this - 

and this - 

 

I’ve watched those before when they came out. Im always interested in what ideas other people come up with. I have an engineers mind. Always trying to figure out how things work or how to make something work better. It might be a curse at times. LOL. Thanks for sharing the vids.

[JayC37jigs]

On 6/23/2024 at 10:46 PM, green said:

I modified a horse head underspin to add a wire keeper. I actually reduce the jig weight as I filled in a part of the head. No issues with fillout.

If you do get issues, turning up the temp on the lead often helps.

That looks good! I know some of the tricks of it. Ive modified several of my molds. Like the high temp gasket maker, drop out, hot lead. Im just worried about pouring the older molds that have a ball type skirt collar if i can get it to fill properly. Like the older arkie or sparky and some old spinnerbait ones.

[JayC37jigs]

On 6/23/2024 at 7:19 PM, cadman said:

I always have thought the same thing. They are usually gapped where the lead keeper is on the mold. Reason being, that is the hardest and the lowest part of the mold where lead needs to fill. Many guys have problems filling the lower part of the mold. If all molds would have these slits for the air to escape, I think many newbies would have less problems.

 Ive modified several of my molds. Like the high temp gasket maker, dremel drop out, and use hot lead. Im just worried about pouring the older molds that have a ball type skirt collar if i can get it to fill properly. Like the older arkie or sparky and some old spinnerbait ones. Just worried If I add the wire keeper is wont fill right. But I guess you’re right, just like the other molds I done, i just need to try it and see how it does. I don’t know why this bothers me more than the other mods I’ve done. I’ve done mods to make my own spinnerbait mold and other dremel mods. I just didnt want to try the wire keeper and then not like it and have to deal with flashing I guess. There are one or two of my older molds that i still have some trouble with even with all the tricks and getting the mold and lead hot.

[bassjiggin1955]

When I modify  my molds I use JB weld I like a permanent fix after I do the modification.