TO JB WELD OR NOT TO JB weld?

[JayC37jigs]

Ok people. Most of my mold mods I’ve been able to do with either RED RTV gasket, a dremel, or a hammer. However, some of the older molds don’t have much extra aluminum past the skirt collar down the shank to add a nice indent to securely add a wire keeper. So, I considered building it up a little. With a JB Weld type material and putting wire keeper indent in that along the hook shank. More than likely there has been a post about this before. However, I am interested in your experienced opinions, thoughts, advise on what to use what not to use, and pictures of your mold modifications if able. Thank you.

[Fishermanbt]

Just thinking aloud here. What if you applied some rtv in the void area on one side so it’s level with the mold face. Place your hooks and keepers where you want them. On the other side of the mold fill the void area with model clay (not air dry kind) and level it flush with the face of the mold. Then cover it with wax paper and tape to the outside. Close the mold and let it cure. Should be minimal squeeze out. Clean up flashing with a razor blade and clean the clay off followed by some iso alcohol. Then repeat for the other side with wax paper over the cured rtv. Should give you a nice even seal with some wiggle room for the keepers.  

Edited August 8 by Fishermanbt
Correction

[JayC37jigs]

28 minutes ago, Fishermanbt said:

Just thinking aloud here. What if you applied some rtv in the void area on one side so it’s level with the mold face. Place your hooks and keepers where you want them. On the other side of the mold fill the void area with model clay (not air dry kind) and level it flush with the face of the mold. Then cover it with wax paper and tape to the outside. Close the mold and let it cure. Should be minimal squeeze out. Clean up flashing with a razor blade and clean the clay off followed by some iso alcohol. Then repeat for the other side with wax paper over the cured rtv. Should give you a nice even seal with some wiggle room for the keepers.  

I like the idea and am glad to hear an idea that I have not seen or heard of yet when it comes to this mod for an older mold.  Totally makes sense tho. As long clay would stay in place well while pouring and storage. Ever run into cracks or breaks after awhile? 

[JayC37jigs]

I’d love to hear other ideas as well. Always looking for different ideas to try. Most molds are different. But I tend to like the wire keeper. So I’ve been looking into trying to convert most of the molds to a wire keeper. Some of the older molds just have quite a decent step down after the skirt collar to where I think there is not enough metal there to hold the keeper in place very well while pouring. So that is why I was looking at different ideas to build it up but also have an indent for the keeper. 

[Jig Man]

I’d like to know what you do and how it turns out.  I’ve been trying to come up with something similar to that for one of my molds.  So far my ideas aren’t working.  Nothing is staying in place.  I couldn’t get rtv to work like I wanted it to and my mod would only be temporary for a special jig with small hooks.  I’ve resorted to super glue to hold my trailers.  Please report back if you come up with something.

[JayC37jigs]

6 hours ago, Jig Man said:

I’d like to know what you do and how it turns out.  I’ve been trying to come up with something similar to that for one of my molds.  So far my ideas aren’t working.  Nothing is staying in place.  I couldn’t get rtv to work like I wanted it to and my mod would only be temporary for a special jig with small hooks.  I’ve resorted to super glue to hold my trailers.  Please report back if you come up with something.

Yes! That’s why I posted this! The RTV worked on one mold. But I could not get it to stay on a different mold because of the way that particular mold is made. I also tried RTV AND magnetic tape. Because some molds. If you use different hooks. The hook point move ever so slightly to the right or left. Slightly out of Alignment with the weed guard (drives me nuts). So I built it up a tad and added the magnetic tape to hold the hook in place and in line. One mold worked. One did not work as well. I’d like to keep them versatile as far as hook size but I want to build that up to add the keeper. I have been hand tying with thread the W400 wire keeper on and using the all weather gel super glue on the threads to hold everything in place. It is ok for personal use jigs. But time consuming and only fits on certain hooks.

[JayC37jigs]

Also was hoping to see some neat modifications people have done. I’ve done the spinnerbait wire mod and a couple different mods with the dremel. 

[Fishermanbt]

18 hours ago, JayC37jigs said:

I like the idea and am glad to hear an idea that I have not seen or heard of yet when it comes to this mod for an older mold.  Totally makes sense tho. As long clay would stay in place well while pouring and storage. Ever run into cracks or breaks after awhile? 

The use of clay would only be used as a temporary to press against the side with rtv until cured. Then remove the clay and put rtv on that side. Thus, giving you rtv on both halves. 

[JayC37jigs]

1 hour ago, Fishermanbt said:

The use of clay would only be used as a temporary to press against the side with rtv until cured. Then remove the clay and put rtv on that side. Thus, giving you rtv on both halves. 

Ok. For some reason that makes more sense to me. Any suggestions on what kind of clay and where to buy it?

[JayC37jigs]

On 8/7/2024 at 9:02 PM, Fishermanbt said:

Just thinking aloud here. What if you applied some rtv in the void area on one side so it’s level with the mold face. Place your hooks and keepers where you want them. On the other side of the mold fill the void area with model clay (not air dry kind) and level it flush with the face of the mold. Then cover it with wax paper and tape to the outside. Close the mold and let it cure. Should be minimal squeeze out. Clean up flashing with a razor blade and clean the clay off followed by some iso alcohol. Then repeat for the other side with wax paper over the cured rtv. Should give you a nice even seal with some wiggle room for the keepers.  

I do really like this idea. I think I might try this out. Thanks

[Fishermanbt]

Walmart or craft stores. This is what I have used. I suspect that rtv may not cure if in direct contact with the clay. That is why I mentioned covering the clay with wax paper while one side cures.  I know soft plastics plastisol doesn’t play nice with the clay. However my two part tin cure silicone doesn’t mind the clay when making a mold. 

[JayC37jigs]

On 8/9/2024 at 3:23 AM, Fishermanbt said:

Walmart or craft stores. This is what I have used. I suspect that rtv may not cure if in direct contact with the clay. That is why I mentioned covering the clay with wax paper while one side cures.  I know soft plastics plastisol doesn’t play nice with the clay. However my two part tin cure silicone doesn’t mind the clay when making a mold. 

I really appreciate the advise and idea. I ordered some stuff. I’ll give it a try and let you know how it goes. I’ll have to look back at the original message. I need to make a channel for the hook and wire keeper I want to use. Thanks again

[Arne]

Brownells handles a release agent used in glass bedding rifles.  It is a liquidand you paint it on.  It can be used in placed of the waxed paper if the paper is too thick. Arne.

[Syncwire]

It’s worked well for me in the past. Just make sure to sand the epoxy down smoothly once it’s cured, so it doesn’t mess with your casting.

[JayC37jigs]

On 8/11/2024 at 10:48 AM, Arne said:

Brownells handles a release agent used in glass bedding rifles.  It is a liquidand you paint it on.  It can be used in placed of the waxed paper if the paper is too thick. Arne.

Thanks. Never thought of that.

[JayC37jigs]

22 hours ago, Syncwire said:

It’s worked well for me in the past. Just make sure to sand the epoxy down smoothly once it’s cured, so it doesn’t mess with your casting.

Yes. I’ve also considered using JB WELD on one side and etc on the other for some give and tight fit. Thanks for the reply. 

[jigmeister]

Have used JB weld on a few molds for mods like this "one side at a time ". I will mix up a small amount of JB weld and apply it to the area being filled then scrape the mold face flat surface with the side of a wooden popcycle stick so the JB weld it is flush with the mold face . I let it start to set up set a little so it forms a skin on the surface but still soft . Use a release agent on your hook and or keeper and press them into the still pliable JB weld so 50% of the hook /keeper diameter is above the mold face . They should come out easy when fully set up. There can be a small ridge of JB weld along the hook outline and I sand this off with sandpaper afterwards so the mold face is flat 

(you can probably get away with pressing  the "keeper" fully into the JB weld if you want since it typically has a smaller diameter than the hook wire and just modify one mold half (instead of both) and then carefully remove the keeper when done with a small pick or dental tool.)

When you go 50/50 with the imprints on each mold half I like to close the mold up after doing the second half but while the JB weld if still pliable to make sure the alignment is correct . Release agent is critical if you do this step .

Right or wrong that's how I do it .

 

Edited August 16 by jigmeister