The Plastics Man Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 I have been using this potent scent after my plastisol has been cooked , adding a couple of drops per quart just before shooting from the jacobsbaits injection press. It does not directly affect the ultimate color when mixing , however I've noticed that it could be causing the color to yellow with reheats or when the plastisol is kept at shooting temps. I am confident that it is not plastisol heat stress, as it has only started to happen since moving from the same flavour but in the lureworks brand. I am thinking that it could be the scent itself burning off as it is quite thick with it's smelly goodness. If I am correct, would diluting the scent be the answer to my new found issue ? and if so what could be used as an additive which will not compromise the integrity of the plastisol in regards to it's compound grade. There's so many theories about what worm oil is, whether it's a mineral based oil or if it's just a plasticizer component. I package my baits " dry" , without salt and only add scent to mask the plastisol smell Any advice would be grateful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saul01 Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 On 4/11/2025 at 2:03 PM, The Plastics Man said: I have been using this potent scent after my plastisol has been cooked , adding a couple of drops per quart just before shooting from the jacobsbaits injection press. It does not directly affect the ultimate color when mixing , however I've noticed that it could be causing the color to yellow with reheats or when the plastisol is kept at shooting temps. I am confident that it is not plastisol heat stress, as it has only started to happen since moving from the same flavour but in the lureworks brand. I am thinking that it could be the scent itself burning off as it is quite thick with it's smelly goodness. If I am correct, would diluting the scent be the answer to my new found issue ? and if so what could be used as an additive which will not compromise the integrity of the plastisol in regards to it's compound grade. There's so many theories about what worm oil is, whether it's a mineral based oil or if it's just a plasticizer component. I package my baits " dry" , without salt and only add scent to mask the plastisol smell Any advice would be grateful apk drive zone online mod Diluting the scent with a plastisol-compatible carrier (like mineral oil or a neutral plasticizer) may reduce yellowing. Test small batches first. Avoid petroleum-based additives if unsure. Dry packaging should minimize further reactions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiderunner Posted April 13 Report Share Posted April 13 Have you tried heating your plastisol without adding scent? Sort of a comparison study? I don't use a jacobs injection system, just an old fashioned hand injector, I don't add scent to my plastic figuring it will only burn off during the heating process. I do add my scent which is 50/50 scent and worm oil (plasticizer). Then lightly salting the bait. As you said, to mask the plastisol scent. I usually hang and let my baits cure for at least a few days before bagging. Using this method, I have bagged baits that are years old that have not changed their characteristics. They are still the same as the day I bagged them. Maybe try adding heat stabilizer to your reheats? The only time I get yellowing is overheating slightly, and multiple reheats. Adding heat stabilizer has cured that issue for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Plastics Man Posted April 14 Author Report Share Posted April 14 12 hours ago, Tiderunner said: Have you tried heating your plastisol without adding scent? Sort of a comparison study? I don't use a jacobs injection system, just an old fashioned hand injector, I don't add scent to my plastic figuring it will only burn off during the heating process. I do add my scent which is 50/50 scent and worm oil (plasticizer). Then lightly salting the bait. As you said, to mask the plastisol scent. I usually hang and let my baits cure for at least a few days before bagging. Using this method, I have bagged baits that are years old that have not changed their characteristics. They are still the same as the day I bagged them. Maybe try adding heat stabilizer to your reheats? The only time I get yellowing is overheating slightly, and multiple reheats. Adding heat stabilizer has cured that issue for me. I add the scent just as I'm adding a quart of cooked colored plastic to the jacobs press for shooting. So basically, it's the very last addition before it's shot Like mentioned, I've never had this issue when using the lureworks brand.. The Lunker scent seems a whole lot thicker. I'm just thinking that it's heavily concentrated and it it's burning (causing the change in coloring ) under the shooting temps. I was not sure about mixing it 50/50 with worm oil but it's something I may just have to do as a trial and error. Thanks for the reply :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiderunner Posted April 14 Report Share Posted April 14 13 hours ago, The Plastics Man said: I was not sure about mixing it 50/50 with worm oil but it's something I may just have to do as a trial and error. I use the 50/50 mixture of worm oil and scent when bagging, not during the cooking process. I don't add scent to the cooking process because I figure it will only burn off. Instead I add it right to the bag and sprinkle a little salt , massage and I'm good to go. Going back and reading my reply I should have made that clearer. Scent mixture and salt added to the bagged baits, not the cooking process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C0MRAD Posted April 14 Report Share Posted April 14 Rather than mixing the scent 50/50 with something else, just use half as much scent. I don't think there is a benefit to mixing it with something else. Also, how much scent are you using? A little bit shouldn't matter, but I suppose it could if you are using too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McLuvin175 Posted April 14 Report Share Posted April 14 Diluting the scent to reduce yellowing will also reduce its strength/potency. So like Comrad said why not just add half the amount? If all else fails maybe cut it with some carrier to thin it and add it to your baits when you bag them. Thats potentially alot of extra work but you should still get good scent on your baits without discoloration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiderunner Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 22 hours ago, Tiderunner said: Going back and reading my reply I should have made that clearer. Scent mixture and salt added to the bagged baits, not the cooking process. 18 hours ago, McLuvin175 said: If all else fails maybe cut it with some carrier to thin it and add it to your baits when you bag them. Thats potentially alot of extra work but you should still get good scent on your baits without discoloration. That's exactly what I said in previous posts. However I'm just a hobbyist bait maker. During fishing season I make at best 50 baits a week, so adding the scent to the bagged baits isn't really a lot of extra work. If I put 10 baits in a bag, that's 5 bags. The OP using a Jacobs injection press might be making a few more baits than myself. Adding it the bags means no discoloration, more powerful scent, and by cutting it with worm oil baits won't stick together, and will stay fresher longer.Also by cutting it it is more cost effective. And I've yet to see a reason to use straight scent on the baits. I mainly scent them to mask my dirty hands, and any chemical scent. Do I have any scientific basis for this. No. Just a way of doing things that works for me. I will say when using the worm oil/ scent mix. On a hot day the oil gets a little more slick. At times It makes it hard to put the bait on the hook. At least for my arthritic hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Plastics Man Posted April 16 Author Report Share Posted April 16 (edited) When in the workshop, I'm usually going though about a gallon at a time. Whether it's initially cooked in a presto and kept stirred at a lower temp. The jacobs takes a quart , so when required , that goes into the microwave to bring back up to shooting temps. Only then the scent will go in , usually 4 drops per quart, just to remove the plastisol/ chem smell. A quart of plastic would roughly take about 20 minutes to shoot out at a temp of 320-330f which is my normal working temps I did a run yesterday with some very light natural colors with the 50/50 mix scent/ oil and it has seemed to relieve the issue. Today the feel of the finish product seems the usual medium compound integrity and no discoloring. The Lunker scent does have a quite heavy separation line with some thick juices on the bottom , so maybe it's highly concentrated and undiluted. I've just changed to this brand after 5 or so years. Maybe a little adaptation was required I package my baits dry just so they do not clump up on the bottom of the bag , also making it viable for my customers to apply their preferred scent without the two conflicting. Thanks for all the input :-) Edited April 16 by The Plastics Man clarification Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C0MRAD Posted April 16 Report Share Posted April 16 I seriously doubt 4 drops per quart would cause yellowing. Based on the process you described with the Presto pot and re-heating, it might be your flake that is bleeding. I've had this issue when using a Presto pot. When heated for longer periods, flake can slowly bleed while it is hot. Some colors bleed more than others. Once the plastic cools, the bleeding stops. I've seen this many times when running a large batch of translucent colors. Comparing the first baits you made and the last will show a color difference. A few months ago, I was using the Presto pot to make a light smoke color with a little bit of red flake. The first baits I shot looked great, but by the time I got to the end, they had a slight pink tint to them. Red and blue are the two colors of flake that have given me the most problems, but I'm sure they all do it to some extent. When doing small batches, like a cup or two at a time, the flake doesn't have time to bleed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Plastics Man Posted April 19 Author Report Share Posted April 19 On 4/17/2025 at 3:55 AM, C0MRAD said: I seriously doubt 4 drops per quart would cause yellowing. Based on the process you described with the Presto pot and re-heating, it might be your flake that is bleeding. I've had this issue when using a Presto pot. When heated for longer periods, flake can slowly bleed while it is hot. Some colors bleed more than others. Once the plastic cools, the bleeding stops. I've seen this many times when running a large batch of translucent colors. Comparing the first baits you made and the last will show a color difference. A few months ago, I was using the Presto pot to make a light smoke color with a little bit of red flake. The first baits I shot looked great, but by the time I got to the end, they had a slight pink tint to them. Red and blue are the two colors of flake that have given me the most problems, but I'm sure they all do it to some extent. When doing small batches, like a cup or two at a time, the flake doesn't have time to bleed. Understanding what you're saying about heat stress on the flake. But this is a color that uses silver shredded flake. The difference between the lunker and lureworks scent is clear as day when it comes to their concentrations. I had mixed with worm oil and ran some out, the same method and temps as I have done for many years. It has seemed to have helped. You'd think that a miniscule amount would not make any difference, but it is a science after all Thanks for the replies :-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
