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resin detail

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As I'm sure you know, I do all of my molds in resin. I think resin will duplicate detail better than aluminum. Aluminum is more consistent however.

Resin will pick up a thumb print on clay. And when you pour, you can see that print in the cured plastic :wink: I don't think you can get much more detail than that.

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Just wanted to add, save your money! The kit at Michael's is nothing special!!! Wal-Mart sells 1 qt w/hardener for $9. Kragen or Auto Zone even Home Depot, has 1 gallon w/hardener for $25.

I have used over 12 different brands of resin, including the kit you mentioned. All of the resin performs exactly the same!!!!

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Woodsac have you tried resin for making any of the foamie style crankbaits? Do you think it will work as well as regular Bondo?

Robert

Robert I haven't tried it for that purpose. I think the problem here is that fiberglass resin is extremely firm and non-giving. It makes it very hard to remove a hard master from the mold. You risk damaging your final product while trying to remove it from the mold. Resin also encounters a small amount of shrinkage. So both sides of your lure might not be exact :?

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Well I know it can be done :D especially if they are using Bondo to do the standard ones. I was more curious about the shrinkage issue with soft baits its not as critical.

I just like the smoothness of the fiberglass resin but I guess the bondo wouldnt be too much different.

Robert

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Durham's is pretty good for detail (much better than plaster). Fish n Fool gave me the low down.

The prototypes I plan to mold are the soft plastic hybrids I posted in the hybrid forum - no hard stuff. Mostly grubs, finesse worms, craws and slider grubs.

No creatures or beavers or anything with fine appendages.

Thanks again.

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Well that's kinda the point I was trying to make :|

If you go to Michaels, you can probably find resin, but you're going to pay way too much for it!

I use fiberglass resin. Primarily used for repairing boats or automotive body work. It has to have catalyst mixed with it to activate it. The catalyst causes a heat reaction and turns the liquid to a solid after it cures.

Go to Home Depot or your local Kragen or Auto Zone and look for resin in the auto body section. At Home Depot it's near the paint. Usually around the epoxy and glues. Look in the 'How-To' section under soft plastics. There is a tutorial there for reference.

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You can release polyester resin from itself, or almost anything else with a release agent. Wax is used, sometimes along with a spray on release agent that amounts to vaseline in a solvent so it goes on real thin.

You could make a master of almost any shape out of wax. You can get waxes that are as hard as the resin will be (shore D 65) called machining wax. Casting wax is a little softer, but still makes masters that can be carved in exquisite detail. The wax will melt at a temperature low enough so the mold isn't hurt. I think some candle waxes might work well as well. parafin is a little bit too soft.

You can pour casting wax into a mold that isn't undercut, or any mold made out of silicone rubber, then trim and shape and even add material by dipping a small brush in melted wax and applying it. Walla, a new and improved version.

One thing to remember is that polyester resin shrinks about 3%. If the master is too hard, something has to give. That's why most master molds are made from Silicone. Epoxy would work if you had to have a hard one, for instance if you wanted to reproduce it in metal with a stylus type reproduction setup.

I'm still looking for the best way to get from a good idea to many multi cavity molds. :D

jm

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I make a hard master for my craw chunk using two part epoxy. I used a coated mold. I gave the mold three coats of mold release wax that we use in boat molds. I let it set up for ablut a day then started cutting away the old mold. when I got down to a thin coat of plaster I started peeling it away from the hard master with an exacto knife.

The mold cating peeled away from the new master I wasn't sure it would but with some patience it peeled away. Now I have a hard master and can reproduce molds faster and with out all the irregularities I use to get with plastisol masters. It's been great and the detail is outstanding.

Now when I pour a new mold I place it under a light to soften up the master making it more pliable. I start at the tip of the claw and slowly work it up on one side then do the other claw. When I have both claws loose I work the arms a little and lift slowly working the body of the trailer out. I only lost one mold because I wasn't being patient enough.

Just a little touch up around the edges and then I cure it. Next day I start the coating of the mold with the two ton epoxy.

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