Celticav Posted April 4, 2003 Report Share Posted April 4, 2003 What kind of epoxy are you guys using? I tried Devcon 2 ton the other night, it worked ok, like glass really, my only complaint was having to spin the bait so much. Is there a better kind to use for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted April 5, 2003 Report Share Posted April 5, 2003 Sorry, But 2Ton Is the best I've tried for durability & gloss. I've tried all the off brands too, Devcon for some reason has the best clarity. Why do you dislike rotating the baits? is it the time involved in doing it, or just dont have something to rotate em with? How are you doin it now? I've seen a few nifty contraptions for rotating jigs. lemme know if ya need pointers on building one. redg8r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funny farm Posted April 5, 2003 Report Share Posted April 5, 2003 I like flex coat , its nice . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted April 5, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2003 I just wanted something easier red, thats all, got a lazy streak a mile wide I guess,LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted April 5, 2003 Report Share Posted April 5, 2003 lol, yup, I feel your pain, but the finish is rewarding. I've had a recent job change & have the great opportunity of utilizing a huge walk-in spray booth & play around with various finishes & stains. I've ran across a 2 part varnish you might like, I havnt researched it very well yet, but it is a clearcoat calle "krystal" it's an epoxy type finish that has a 10:1 mix with a catalyst. I'ts very sprayable (is that a word? ) Anyway, it dries completely in about 10 minutes, but can be stored in a sprayer for about 4 hours before it sets up (strange huh?) After get a lil better rapor with the boss, I'm gonna spray a few baits to check for durability, Its an interior/exterior grade topcoat & used on countertops, so it's definately a candidate I'll keep ya posted. redg8r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted April 5, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2003 Oops, I meant to post this in the fly tying section :oops: I have used it(devcon) for coating spinnerbaits for sometime, but was referring to applying it over thread wraps. FFT, have you ever used flexcoat for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted April 5, 2003 Report Share Posted April 5, 2003 Oops' date=' I meant to post this in the fly tying section :oops: I have used it(devcon) for coating spinnerbaits for sometime, but was referring to applying it over thread wraps. FFT, have you ever used flexcoat for this?[/quote'] No problem, I moved it for ya. Hey George, Whats your preference on putting a nice finish on your thread wraps? I'm curious too.... Devcon works, but like Celticav/ mentioned, ya need to rotate the hook to keep the sags away....any ideas? redg8r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted April 5, 2003 Report Share Posted April 5, 2003 Hope you guys don't mind me jumping in here,but I've found with thread raps I'll use a little head cement(finger nail polish) over the top of the thread. This soaks into the thread well and binds everything together.Then I'll use a tooth pick and run a coat of devcon around the wraps to protect them from being chewed up.I just hang them to dry.There isn't that much epoxy on the threads to sag..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted April 5, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2003 Nathan, thanks for the response, I will try that tonite. I was considering trying the 5 min stuff on it, but G8R reminded me that 2ton is the only one that gives that perfectly clarity on the end result. When you say finger nail polish, do you mean just plain clear fingernail polish? This works as good as the head cement in the fly shops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted April 11, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2003 Nathan, that works great, thanks, Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted April 11, 2003 Report Share Posted April 11, 2003 Glad I could help..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadlystreamer Posted April 11, 2003 Report Share Posted April 11, 2003 Wow!! You guy use all kinds of strange stuff. I buy clear lacquer in a 2oz bottle and also get the 2 oz bottle of thinner. I use a small jar with a tight top and use the stuff on every thing I tie. It'll last forever and won't come undone. I use the lacquer from start to finish on a fly. A dab on the thread, add something and dab it, until I'm finished, then cover the head or the finished part and hang it up to dry. Then before I package a fly, I use a pointed (Actually a walnut picker) tool and clean the dried lacquer out of the eye. It dries nice and leaves the color of the thread to be seen. For you guys that have a large area to coat with a finish. I'd use a small tool of some kind or even a small brush and put a couple coats of clear lacquer on it. Let it dry and put the second coat on. It won't dry with bubbles and will give you a smooth finish. I buy the lacquor from E.Hille. Anglers supply house in Williamsport Pa. A 2oz bottle is 2.30 and the thinner is 2.00 for the 2oz bottle. That will last you quite some time. I hope this will be of some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted April 12, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2003 OK, is there some reason you only use the clear? Now that you know what I am tying and see the huge amount of wrap I am talking about how would it look if I used different colored laquer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadlystreamer Posted April 13, 2003 Report Share Posted April 13, 2003 Hi Jim, I'm in Northern Mi at my inlaws house and I just got in my email. If you use just black thread, or for that matter, Any color thread the clear would be all you need. The clear works on red thread or black or what ever. I see no reason to use colored lacquor. Even on the areas you need to seal or cover. Heck I've used it on Jiggs and I mean big jiggs and it works just fime. I ues it on the littlest dryflies. I personally don't think you can beat it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted April 17, 2003 Report Share Posted April 17, 2003 For my 'best' heads I use lacquer, or glue to put the fly together, then paint the head (red, black, green, etc.) with Testors, then two coats of bar top finish (NU-LUSTRE-55). Makes a clear bead-like head. I do rotate on a simple drying weel between coats. You can add a cotrasting colored eye between the finish coats if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadlystreamer Posted April 17, 2003 Report Share Posted April 17, 2003 Hey Big Splash, That sounds like a nice finish you put on your lures. I'd never get mine tied if I did all that. It's got to take quite a bit of time with the drying wheel. Do you make just one or two at a time? Just wondering. Keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted April 18, 2003 Report Share Posted April 18, 2003 Deadly, you are correct that PROPERLY APPLIED Lacquer will hold a fly together well, and it is versitile. I don't tie comercially much any more, and most people say I spend way too much time on each one, but I look at it like this; a well tied bucktail will out-last its owner, its worth it. I make plugs and the are really time consuming.... My "junkyard drying wheel" (cost $4.00, 20 min. build time) will hold about 100 Bucktails at once. I tie in stages- tie the flies all up, then paint them all at one sitting, and then do the finish coats at once. I can load the drying wheel with weighted spinners, at the same time. On regular Trout flies I use a conventional head cement thru-out the tie, and I will testify, the materials will wear out before the fly comes unwound. Some fly patterns are stronger than others. Personaly I get a lot of satisfaction tying on a beautifuly made lure, and the time I put into it is part of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted April 18, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2003 Hey Todd, can you share where you get that NU-LUSTRE-55, is it available at Home Depot or Lowes? I am dying to try the clear laquer thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted April 18, 2003 Report Share Posted April 18, 2003 I got mine at the local hardware department here in Smalltown B.C., but the box has a web address www.swingpaints.com It's a Canadian thing, so you can save a few bucks with your US dollars. I havn't seen the web site yet. I just asked for a product to do the clear plastic over wood bar tops, or the old heavy plastic-look artwork over wood. This stuff seems tuff- I havn't had a season to try it out yet, but I've dropped my 1 1/2 oz. lead-heads on the concrete floor without a scratch, and carried plugs in my pocket (no hooks!!) with keys and change with zero damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuggermanBob Posted May 13, 2003 Report Share Posted May 13, 2003 Usually in the same display as the devcon you will find 5 minute clear epoxy. It is thicker, so you have to spread it sometimes, but the finish and strength are good and it dries quicker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthworm77 Posted July 24, 2003 Report Share Posted July 24, 2003 The Devcon 2 ton is my choice. I paint it on with a small brush. I've sealed spinnerbaits and crankbait paint jobs with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
