Air bubbles revisited

[Senkosam]

Tapping the mold on a hard surface my draw the hot plastic down into the mold and pop the bubble. Pour into the cavity formed. You can make sure the bubble is gone by inserting a wire to feel for a space that shouldn't be there and maybe pop one that is.

Air bubbles ruin a bait and cause more work.

[basskat]

I guess I'm lucky. I've never had any problems with air bubbles. I can shake, stir, or whatever to the plastic (any brand) and still don't get them. Wonder what's different? NOT that I'm complaining!

[Senkosam]

The bubbles form at the top of the lure in the mold as the hot plastic contracts.

[millsryno]

The reason people will get air bubbles is because they don't fill the "reservoir" on top of the mold and top it off BEFORE it starts to suck back in. As soon as you see it start to dimple, you pour more on top. It will seem like you are wasting it, because it is overpouring, but your worms will come out perfect every time.

Remember heat expands and cold contracts. The plastic is hot and is expanded. As it cools it contracts and that is why it sucks in this top part.

I use Del's stick molds and the regular stick has a nice sized "reservoir". I don't really have to top off the 4" size and rarely do I have to top off the 5" size. The only time I have to top of the 5" size is if my plastic is super hot. Think about it, the plastic is hotter and so it is expanded more and will contract more, so it sucks more plastic in. The T-Stick is another story. The "reservoir" is very small (I wish it were bigger) and I have to top of every cavity at least once. If the plastic is really hot, I will have to top off twice. I also pour a 6" T-Stick and that requires that I top it off twice and when the plastic is really hot, 3 times.

Sorry for rambling on so long, but this was very frustrating to me when I first started pouring sticks and maybe this will help somebody.

[Senkosam]

I top off the reservoir, never see the plastic suck down into the hole and still get bubbles unless I tap the mold and use wire or skewer to pop the one bubble that may be 1/3-1/2 long at the top part of the stick.

I've even tiltled the mold when pouring - no dice.

[BassnG3]

I have never had a problem with air bubbles that big Frank. I have trouble with small air bubbles that was addressed in other posts and my remedy for that was swithching cups after plastic is melted.

Scott

[Delw]

There are a few different types of air bubbles,

small air bubbles in the heated plastic

Its usually cause by some moisture. happens alot when using the microwave. happens occasionlly using pouring pots.

if the plastic to be heated is colder than room temp and you stick it in the microwave to heat it up this will cause steam which in trun is moisture.

one way to fix it is to let it cool then reheat

It also happens when the plastic is whipped up instead of stired. or shaken in the container. if this is a must let it sit for a hour or so before you cook it.

happens with high humidity as well.

Adding salt usually will create these bubbles as well, someone had ( nova?) a great way to fix this problem by preheating the salt before you add it to the plastic.

The small bubbles if let set for a while can be scouped out by a spoon, they will generally rise to the top of very hot plastic.

Unfortunatly Moisture is a very big problem with plastics, most of us have no control over it.

We have to do what we can to keep it from getting worse.

Keep the plastic at room temp

keep it out of the sun and sudden temp changes

keep it off the ground( concrete or sand)

try not to work with it in high humid areas or when the humidity is at its highest.

Cook it a little slower in the microwave( for example cook for one min then open door and let sit for a min repeat proccess until fully cooked)

Plastic bubble in 2 cavity mold

this happens when your pouring to fast and cove the fill hole. The air doesnt escape and causes a bubble.

This can also happen when your pouring very hot plastic into a mold, when it cools it shrinks , the way to fix it is over fill the molds and keep and eye on them when they go down keep filling.

[Senkosam]

Thanks Del,

I think that I might be pouring too fast and when I top off the pour spout, it cools too fast to go down and traps a solid air bubble 1/3 way down the stick because of contraction. Tapping helps though and maybe pouring each cavity only 3/4, filling later to the top.

[millsryno]

Frank,

I sometimes pour my 6" T-Stick half way, let it sit for about 30 seconds and then top it off. It does seem to help like Del mentions.

[Senkosam]

That's the first way I tried, but I'm so impatient to pop that pretty motha out a there, that I forget the count (usually 12 seconds for 3/4 full.

I think I'll discipline myself and do it that way, mold tap and wire poke.

You gotta do what you gotta do! I can't stand freak'n air bubbles!!

Frank

[Mojo]

Frank, you may try not heating the plastic as hot. If it's really hot and pours like warm syrup try heating it less. I've poured senkos with plastic that isn't as hot as if I was pouring a one piece mold and it pours into a 2 cavity fine and doesn't create air bubbles.

[Senkosam]

275 is probably on the cool side? Always under 325.

[Delw]

Frank

I dont go by temp numbers but I know that my plastic and salt mixture pours like water or at the least warm pancake syrup.

I get mine very very hot. Might try heating the plastic up a little more like others said.

Delw

[millsryno]

When I pour half the worm and wait for 30 seconds or so before I pour the other half, I am actually not doing nothing. I continue to pour other worms half way, then just circle back around and top them all off. it shouldn't slow ya down

[Senkosam]

Del, I'm concerned about overheating and effects on glitter, but I'll try a hotter temp. If not, I'll go mill's way with partial fill and tapping.

Which reminds me, my sticks are soft and salty (like the 1-bass Senko) and I decided to partial fill to within 1/2" from the top. I topped off the last 1/2" with fresh plastic that I added hardener to improve the durability at the hook end. The action in the fish tank is no different and hopefully will be durable for more than 4 bass (which mine usually are, unless a sharp toothed pick slashes them to pieces.)

[basskat]

I also pour my plastic very hot and I use your glitter Sam. Poured in the neighborhood of 100 of Del's senko type baits this afternoon with no problems. I nuke my plastic then transfer to a pouring pan which I keep heated on a hot plate. I pour a small stream into the cavity until it's completely full. After all four cavities are filled I go back and top it off again.

[Senkosam]

Basskat, next time you have a candy thermometer, take the average peak temp you pour at.

Thanks to all for helping me with this dilemma.

Frank M

[Delw]

Which reminds me, my sticks are soft and salty (like the 1-bass Senko) and I decided to partial fill to within 1/2" from the top. I topped off the last 1/2" with fresh plastic that I added hardener to improve the durability at the hook end. The action in the fish tank is no different and hopefully will be durable for more than 4 bass (which mine usually are, unless a sharp toothed pick slashes them to pieces.)

I get an average of 6-10 fish per stik using calhoun plastic. it will last all day if it didnt fall off the hook when the fight occurs.

When I use a 1/2oz jig head on the stik bait( oh did I let that secret out ) I can fish all day long with one bait and catch many fish.

[Senkosam]

I get an average of 6-10 fish per stik using calhoun plastic.

Mine can't with the amount of salt I add. Salt kills durability every time, even floured salt. It's worse with crystal salt, which is what I use when attempting to copy the spongy texture of GY's plastics and which I prefer in a horizontal-sinker. Combine this with the amount of softener that's needed to offset the firmness added by salt, and you have a lure that is lucky to stay on the hook past the 4th fish.

But your're right - If I use no salt, the baits will last and last, with an occasional clipping of the front end when the worm won't stay up. Using this stick C-rigged, bullet weighted, no weight (as a shallow jerk worm) or with a jig head, would make sense because part of the worm would always float. Butt regardless of the versatility-claims of Senko advocates for anything other than horizontal sinkers, I think most knockoffs with less salt would do better, especially at half the price and double the durability.

(Is that a weedless 1/2oz jighead?)

[Tubeman]

Ok, I'll give up one secret....since your close. Combine one Del-Mart 4 1/4" Stick of your choice with an Owner 1/16 oz Ultra Head (texas rig style jig head ) and you will have one heck of a deadly combo. It caught at least 10 five pounders for us in tournies last year. Fish it slow, really slow and for a twist you guys that make your own tubes can slice 2" of the tail to make an awesome skirt ( Sorry Del )

Have Fun,

[Senkosam]

Thanks Mike (sorry Del).

[millsryno]

Mike is that poured with or without salt?

[Delw]

haha the secrets are slowly coming out.

next time solder (solder iron for heat)some skirts onto the ends of a 5 1/4" stik bait then wacky rig it....

Delw

[GB GONE]

Hey guys....If you watch any Bass Center,you would see that the pros are using these on a regular basis on lakes with spots or smallies!!! I bet they are using them for largemouth also!!!

Forget the 4" finesse worm guys use, go with the "unsalted" sticks!!! I use a 1/4oz ball head jig and it kills when flipped under docks!!!

I sold some "unsalted sticks" and jig head combos on Ebay not long ago and the guy who bought them emailed me after a weekend of fishing for 100...no salt!!!

You gotta love pouring them without the salt!!!!!

Jim

[basskat]

I fish mine with a 1/4 oz. horsehead jig with a small #2 willowleaf blade. Awesome bait in deep water!