4 inch ring worm 'Zoom Dead Ringer' 'Lucky E Strik'

[aaafish]

I want to make a 4 inch ring worm. I think it will have to be an injection mold. Can anyone tell me where to get a mold?

Robert

aaafish@earthlink.net

[Senkosam]

I don't ever advocate using LC junk, but I'm sure he has a decent ringworm mold. The alternative woud be to make your own with Durham's plaster for better detail. Just push the worm down as far as you can and coat the cavity well with a thing sealer. The ribbed texture more than offsets the flat side.

(ie. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=3 ) (nice job, by the way, Bummer Baits.)

A one sided beaver mold is a perfect example where one flat side is fine and doesn't offset total lure profile or action. Before we were all blessed with metal 2-part molds or made them ourselves, flat sided baits worked fne and still do. Many of us have gone to total-rounded because of sales.

Even plaster will yield a decent one part, at 1/10 the cost of Durham's, but molds last a long time and Durham's detail is only beat by resin or aluminum. Did you check with Del or Bob?

[BuMMeRBaits]

Thanks for the comment SenkoSam, much appreciated.

You should be able to use the bait that you have pictured, and it would also probably come out well, using fiberglass resin. Just make sure the resin gets down between all the grooves.

I have one of the molds from LC, which is just almost exactly what you have pictured above and it comes out really nice. But I only use the LC molds a couple of times to pour up the baits to make my own molds with. Much nicer to have a mold with 10-15 cavities instead of 2 or 3.

[softworm]

aaafish, I have a 4 and 7 in. ring worm mold made from resin, they both work and look good. I spray cooking oil in the mold before pouring to aid in releasing the worms after they have cooled. This is something (in my mold anyway) that you will probably have to do to get the worms out without tearing them.