Dave V Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 Can I use regular craft glitter in plastisol? What properties does the flake have that ordinary craft glitter doesn't? Thanks, Dave V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 Craft glitter does not withstand heat. You need something that won't bleed and deform. Del-Mart, Lurecraft, M-F and SenkoSam all sell glitter suitable for worms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave V Posted August 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 I see what you mean, I had to try I guess. It wasn't that it clumps up, it just shrivels down to nothing. First pour with real plastic. was great. I didn't add any salt to the MF super soft. I should have but I don't own a coffee grinder and I read that it is better to grind it down. A couple have bubbles towards the top of the bait in my 2 pc stick bait mold. is that a salt issue? Looks large enough for a glass rattle. What did i do wrong? Thanks, Dave V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harley-cowboy Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 Dave... You have to have the plastic heated enough to pour SLOWLY in the middle of the opening. If you pour to fast or the plastic is not hot enough, you will get those "VOIDS" ( bubbles). Try pouring a small stream into the middle of the mold opening. When you add salt, it is even more difficult to pour without getting those voids. Just go slow with a very small stream and make sure you STIR after every cavity. You have to stop over to the shop one day and I'll give you some pointers. OH YEAH.... ONLY use good quality glitter. The craft flakes will not cut it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 Dave, do as Harley says, but also make sure you overpour your sticks. Don't worry about getting it all perfect, you can trim off excess very easily. Overpour it and watch it...as soon as it STARTS to suck the plastic in, top it off. Don't sweat your overpours, you just keep it in a pile and after you finish pouring all your plastic, you throw those in your pyrex and melt them back down. What happens is that plastic expands when it is hot and contracts as it cools. It sucks the plastic in as it cools. While the inside of the mold is cooling, the air bubbles are rising ot the top. This bubble you are seeing is just a culmination of all the air bubbles collecting together and making one larger bubble. Unfortunately, the top of the opening cools faster than the inside and many times the air bubble does not have a chance to get all the way out. By overpouring, you are allowing that bubble to get higher and by topping it off, you are melting the cooled plastic on the surface again and really helping that bubble get out. If this does not solve your problem, try pouring half a bait, let it sit for a minute, then pour the rest of it...again overpouring and topping off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 I see these threads a lot but some craft glitter does work. Check out the Stampendous line of products. I use it qutie frequently, reheated multiple times all still good. I haven't had any problems with it at all. Only negative is hard to find larger sized glitter. Fine and extra fine are the two most frequently carried. Price can be another negative but I bought my stampendous multiple time on reduced prices for a fraction of what others sell glitter plus no shipping costs. I have found it mostly at Michael's craft stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 I use a lot of flake/glitter from the craft stores. They have an incredible line of fine (0.008) and ultra fine (0.002) colors. There are 68 colors at my local micheal's and I have tried many of them for some great changes on classic colors.... They also stock the silver and gold hologram.... Small flake has become a staple for me when I am doing a lot of colors like junebug, watermelon red, etc. where you really are looking for good flake coverage.. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsworms Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 Any "polyester coated" glitter should withstand the high heat required to pour plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave V Posted August 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 WOW!!! What a great thread of replies. Very informative. harley-cowboy, I will take you up on that invite real soon. Thanks, Dave V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dungeonhawk5 Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 michaels does have a lot of glitter, but none of them say they are coated with polyester, how can you tell? anyone have a brand list that will work.. jim what are your brands from michaels that are working for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 I can tell you the brands when I get back in the shop BUT I only use the fine and ultra fine glitter from Micheal's. They have about 50 different colors, including silver and gold holo, in the fine and ultra fine flake. One of my absolute favorites in the ultra fine sea mist flake. It really adds a lot to any green color (like green pumpkin, watermelon, roadkill) and is AWESOME in a kudzu color. There are a few blues and a rose (inspired by Chris ) that I use a good bit also. Really gives some of the "normal" colors a shot in the arm!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
