Is there a way to make tubes efficiently without a machine?

[earthworm77]

I've done it on rods. Buy I can only make a few at a time. They work great but I don't see how one could get into hand dipped tubes without it being a huge operation....any ideas. I'm looking to make enough baits for myself...I would like to be able to make 50 at a time without spending hours doing it.

[Mercury]

Teh guys that do tubes wich arent as many as we would like make a jig. This way they dip the jig and make 12+ at a time. depending on how big you make your jig.

plate what ever size you want to dip out of, the rods you use, you can drill holes in the plate, fasten the rods to the plate, and now you have a jig.

have about a half inch clearancebetween rods so you can remove the tubes after dipping.

[dtrs5kprs]

Try this link to an article I posted on BFHP last year. Pretty decent setup for "garage" production of quality tubes.

http://www.wmi.org/sql_messages_html/onfly_file/doc.asp?num=26699&ini=d:asp_inifishing_tactics_3way.ini&no_nav=

Let me know if that does not get you there & I will try to find a copy, or walk you thru it.

[dtrs5kprs]

Sorry just tried link & it is jacked up somehow. Post is below:

SUBJECT: # 26699: how to hand dip tubes

Submitted by dtrs5kprs (208.247.100.130) from KANSAS on 7/24/01 9:30:00 PM

I've seen and been a part of a few posts and lots of e-mail regarding tube dipping methods lately. Wanted to post my method as a courtesy to all who were kind enough to share information.

1) Dipper...I have fashioned a few dippers using the following: a) Aluminum rods of 1/4"-3/8" dia., depending on diameter of tube desired. Cut these to length, longer than size of tube you will be dipping (I use 7" size). Floor drain plate...drill out holes to proper size, then attach rods using JB weld. I ususally "quick fix" them in place first using 5 minute epoxy. c) Eye bolt & nut...run thru center of drain plate. This will be used to hold the dipper & can also be used to hang it for cooling.

These dippers have 6 rods, but can also be made as 3's by using the inside holes on the drain plate. They are light, and dissipate heat fairly well.

2) Tail-cutter...I have tried a variety, but after posts from Hughesy & T-Mike have happened onto this one. a) Olfa rotary cutting blades (or Fiskars). I am using size 28, but there are several. These can be found at Michael's, Hobby Lobby, & similar craft stores. Trim or corner paint roller, short plastic handle with roller removed. This serves as the frame for the cutter. The wire is about the same size as a #8 or #10 machine screw. c) Flat washers (sz #6-10 depending on wire diameter), between 5 and 15 depending on # of blades. d) Neoprene backed washers, I am using size 10 on these, about 4 of them.

I put this cutter together by alternating blades and flat washers, and use a pair of neoprene washers on the open end of the frame to hold them in place. This makes the blades fairly stable and allows for easy adjustment of pressure and blade changes. Currently, I am using a 5-blade set-up. This will cut thru both sides of the tube, with a couple of quick cuts to make in the "in-between" flaps. It makes about 14-16 cuts, with the # and width varying based on the # and spacing of blades. I use a rotary cutting mat to protect working surfaces and the blades.

I am still trying to get a "perfected" heating method. Currently I am using a large, microwaveable corningware pitcher, that has a depth of about 10". It takes about 30 minutes to get the 1/2 gallon or so plastic in the pitcher hot, and it remains hot for quite a while. I can usually get 3-4 sets of dips (about 3-4 layers per set) before I need to reheat for a couple of minutes.

Dipping...I dip in a few quick layers. I usually dip the tube a little longer than I want the finished bait to be. The first two dips form the length and the tail, the next two or three form the body. These are the dips that add thickness. You should allow the tubes to cool slightly between the second dip, and each ensuing dip. This keeps the tubes from thinning out in the middle. You can immerse the dippers into a large container of cold water to quick cool the tube for removal, or just hang from a rod, bar, peg hook, etc.

When cool, just peel a small part of the tube's tail free from the rod and it should slide off. I apply a thin coat of worm oil to the aluminum rods with a toothbrush to make this easier. Set them aside, re-oil and go back at it. Once you have dipped a few batches it goes pretty well. 2-colors can be made with 2 batches of plastic, although I would recommend doing this with individual rods rather than a dipper (to save on qty of plastic required).

This method will work on a small scale with a few loose rods, or with several dippers.

Either #500 or #502 (or blends) Lure craft plastic will work. The 500 is VERY heavy and cuts much better than the 502. It also seems to cling to the rod better. You can add hardener or resin (from the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket or gallon jug) to 502, plus some heat stabilizer to stiffen it up to 500 level. The 500 cooks at a higher temp than 502. I do not recommend using 536 plastic for tubes. Colors and glitter are, of course, the usual hand-pour smorgasbord.

Thanks to Ron, Hughesy, Triton Mike, Dave @ Lure craft, and all others who have provided answers & ideas on this subject. I hope this helps some of you who have questions. If there are any Q's or more specific info is required please feel free to contact me via e-mail.

Don't let 'em jump,

Dave Reeves

***I no longer epoxy or JB weld in the rods, now using adjustable collars to hold them in the drilled plate...allows easy change of length, diameter, etc. Be VERY careful using one of these cutters, as they are VERY sharp blades, and it is pretty easy to slip on the handles.

[earthworm77]

Thanks Guys, It seems like a ton of work for a small production. Guess I'll stick to Mizmos. I sometimes simply dip a small steel rod to make a few tubes. It works but like I said, production is small and timely. For just making a few tubes to fish, it works ok.