muskydan666 Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 Hi to you all!!Im new to this board and very happy to know that there is a to exchange knowledge about bait making!!!I make some musky cranks for about 3 years now and have learn about all by my self!my baits works very nice,even caught a few on them this year!!but I have a big probleme!!!!????one ot of two the paint crack after a few minute in the water!??? I use poplar wood,white primer(spay can)auto air paint and a polyurethane clear coat.So now my question is do you use any wood sealer before puting the primer coat???and if so what kind do you use???? thank you for your advice. muskydan666. im sending you a pic so you could see the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muskydan666 Posted December 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 Hi,if you click on the pic it looks much better!!!Thanks.muskydan666 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 the problem in my opinion is before the paint. after sanding . use a sanding sealer. this absorbs into the wood pores. . then the paint and clearing process. you will not have a tooth proof bait as its wood but you will stop the flake and paint blistering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiR3 TiG3R Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 hi there, what i do is after sanding, apply a coat of devcon 2 ton. then sand again before painting white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apb Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 You need to seal the wood before priming. Poplar will soak up water pretty quick if it can get to the bare wood. That is what causes paint to peel off. I use boiled linseed oil mixed with mineral spirits. 60% linseed to 40% spirits. Dip the plug in the mix, let soak, pull out and let the excess drip off, then wipe down with a rag or paper towel. Hang to dry for a week. Then prime as usual. Be sure to read the warnings on the boiled linseed can about disposal of rags. Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 You need to seal the wood before priming. Poplar will soak up water pretty quick if it can get to the bare wood. That is what causes paint to peel off. I use boiled linseed oil mixed with mineral spirits. 60% linseed to 40% spirits. Dip the plug in the mix' date=' let soak, pull out and let the excess drip off, then wipe down with a rag or paper towel. Hang to dry for a week. Then prime as usual. Be sure to read the warnings on the boiled linseed can about disposal of rags.Andrew[/quote'] That's because linseed oil soaked rags WILL spontaneously combust! When you're done with them, wet them with water and dispose of them outside the house. There is a tutorial by Tally on how to seal with disolved plastic. It's in the How To knowledge base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 if its poplar good luck. the problem many musky bait makers is regional water temp fluctuations. expansion contraction. as we all actually think we have sealed a bait from water is a mis-conception as one tooth hole or rock chip will allow water in. thats why a good sealer definately will correct problems of paint blow off. a good lacquer sanding sealer can be primed in 1 hours time. ventilation and no open flames are a must unless you want to be launched like a scud missle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 Get rid of the poplar and go to cedar or maple. Dip your baits in bullseye shellac and let dry. I haven't tried the sanding sealer that Woodieb8 recommends but do know lots of folks use it. jed v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 A good wooden bait takes a lot of time to complete. Forget about the "quickest" way to get it done. I use a good epoxy (NU-Lustre-55) to coat the wood, then it is put on a drying wheel to cure. Scuff sand and paint, then coat with epoxy again using the wheel to cure it. It is like painting a plastic lure. The completed bait is tough! It will survive bouncing off a concrete floor without chipping. If a big musky tooth does penetrate (lucky you!) then it can be patched with a tiny drop of epoxy. Never fish a wounded bait as wet wood will expand, cracking the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muskydan666 Posted December 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 Hi guys!thanks for your infos,I think I will try some sanding sealer.The thing is that I dont know what brand to use???I live in Quebec canada so if someone know exactly what I should use and where I could find it please let me know??? Cheers,muskydan666 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 im in southern ontario. you could try lee valley tool. they carried a good wood sealer. i dont know if you have rona lumber your way . they may carry the sealer also. the new lustre you have right where your at. it comes from there right.. if you have any questions e mail me. i will try to help you out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 If you are in Quebec, try the Nu-Lustre-55, like woodie said, it's made there. It should be available from any good hardware, or Co-Op store. If you dont have a drying wheel, you can get away with hanging the freshly coated lure and then turn it end for end each 5-10 minutes, untill it cures enough to stay in place. Once you try it you'll always wonder why you spent your time with thin undercoats. You will want to finish the top-coat with something super tough anyway, or else your gonna have cracked and chipped paintjobs from water getting into the wood. (Muskies have big teeth!) All harware should be installed prior to top-coating. Nu-Lustre-55 is the stuff that they use to finish wooden bar tops with, or those old artsy pictuers in the 70's that look like they have a thick coating of plastic. Sorta like a Rapala from twenty years ago.... nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 Splash - how does water based paint do with the "scratched" epoxy undercoat? Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 I've had good results painting over the epoxy with all the paints I've tried, water based or enamels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
