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BassAssault

Need fluid bed to paint spinnerbaits ans buzzbaits.

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I had a bed made from CS and for jigs you can't be it .I can paint up to 50 1/2 bass jigs at a time.

The problem is using it with buzz and spinner heads.

I've tried just about everything to keep the paint off the hooks and wires but it just makes a mess.

I have 1 more trial and I hope it works

If someone else has found a way I hope they reply to this posting

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I use a fluid bed with a 3 inch cup and paint all my jigs, spinnerbaits and buzzbaits in it just fine. I can only do one at a time though.

B&D - I must be missing something here, how do you paint 50 jigs at a time? Please explain as I would love to be able to do that. As for keeping paint off the hooks and wires, if they are not heated your powder will not stick and may be wiped off after the dipping process. You must be heating your jigs in an oven and going straight into the fluid bed with multiple jigs on a special rack, and that's why the paint sticks to your hooks. It is all getting clearer to me, I think :wink:

George Reeves

H&P Tackle

Welch, OK

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I had CS build me a large bed $$$ and I built racks that slide into the oven .

Just as you stated you heat the jigs in the oven and dip them .Well the hook and wires heat up and wellah! the paint sticks.Now as far as high temp silicone tubing over the hooks? well it wooks ok sometimes but the paint makes it's way into the tubing and were the tubing seats to the keel of the head it creates a lil blob which is ugly.

Now the other thing is to keep them clamped in the holder and build a propane tube track with small ports to heat just the head quickly without heating the hook to bad?

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BassAssault, to answer your question, a 3" fluid bed would suffice for your needs. I have two of Component Systems and am very happy with them. There is a user on this site who also makes them and has had some good things said about his fluid bed. If you read down this forum, there is a post about heat times and he gives a link to where you can purchase his fluid bed, e-bay I believe and cheaper than Component Systems yet just as good. I am going to be getting some powder cups from him, he goes by the name dayooper.

B&D, I would love to see your-set up in operation, to get my thoughts going on how to make it work. But with heat being the most important ingedient in the painting process, it must be applied ONLY to the area to be painted. Your idea of a propane tube to heat the heads is good, but can the heat be regulated so that you are not melting one head while not heating another enough? And getting equal heat to all sides of the head? You are on the right track to something, don't give up on it. I have also wondered if electrostatic powder coating would be the answer, but know nothing about how it works. Keep us posted on your progress and good luck.

George Reeves

H&P Tackle

Welch, OK

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Reeves, thanks for the compliment! Here is a link to my fluid beds on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7208862134&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

When we paint jigs and get paint on the shank, it will scrape off easily with a utility knife and only takes a few seconds. Make sure you do this BEFORE you bake the lures in the oven. Also, make sure to clean out the eyes before baking. That stuff is rock solid after is cures. I have tried electrostatic powder painting of spinner blades and have had no success with it. Let me know if anybody has any questions on the fluid beds. I would be more than happy to help out.

Thanks,

Benjamin

www.tjstackle.com

TJs-200.gif

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Ben, your right about the electostatic .It's hard to work with and the paint goes everywhere.

Trur about scraping paint off the shank but when it gets on the hook point you need to make sure you get it completely .but then again thats alot of scraping.

As for the eyes I have a dremel monted to the paint bend and have a small drill bit in it and we they are cured and cool to touch I run the bit through it and its a clean cut and the paint doesn't breal off the eye

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I have also heard that using a soldering iron with a fine point will also work to get the paint out of the eyes. I guess when you are dipping the jig or spinnerbait you want to try hard not to actually get the point of the hook in the paint. With jigs its easy, but I have no experience with spinnerbaits. The problem I had with the electrostatic was I was not getting an even coat on the blades and some spots it would miss. I would end up spraying much more paint than needed. A fluid bed sure makes this process easier.

Thanks,

Benjamin

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I got a fluid bed from "dayooper" and let me tell you it works great! I did not have any problem with getting paint in the eyes. I heat my jigs with a propane torch and dip one at a time. To get any paint out of the eyes I just heat the tip of a paper clip (before you bake your jig) and push it thru.

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When I paint jigs, I paint them without weedguards, here are the steps I use:

Hold jig by the hook with a pair of long nose vise grips.

Rotate jig in flame to heat.

Insert teflon tube in weedguard hole.

Dip and swish in fluid bed.

Remove teflon tube.

Using a .050 piece of spinnerbait wire, I pass it through the hook eye to remove paint.

Bake to cure.

Glue in weedguards.

The first six steps are done quickly, within a couple of seconds so the jig head doesn't cool too fast on me. It works great. Give it a try.

George Reeves

H&P Tackle

Welch, OK

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I haven't tried this, but if the problem is that the wire is getting hot when you heat up the heads in the oven and then the powder paint adheres to it, wouldn't it be easier to not heat up the wires in the first place? You might be able to create a cover for your rack of baits that fits over the wires while preheating in the oven. Maybe some silicone sheet covered by heat shielding tape like is used in automotive engine compartments. It seems like it should work, as you don't need zero heating, just slow the heating down enough to where the powder paint won't adhere.

Another thing is that Caswell over various powder painting masking products (tape/liquid/silicone), but that seems like it'd be a pain if you are doing quantity, expensive as well...

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Here's a tip if you are going to be painting a large number of jigs at one time:

We take a toaster oven and place a bunch of jigs in a pan and preheat them for around 20 minutes at 350, Then using a pair of hemostats, reach in and grab them one at a time a quickly swish the jig in the fluid bed. After swishing, I like to hold them over a heat gun for a second or two to make sure the paint has flowed out properly. Then I drop them in a bowl of water. When I am finished with all the jigs, I clean out the eyes and then hang them on a rack in the toaster oven to cure (see my post in this forum under Pro-Tec curing times). You can easily paint hundreds of jigs this way minus the preheating and curing time of course. We have two toaster ovens set up so we can use one to preheat more jigs as we are painting the jigs in the other one.

Keep the tips coming and hopefully I will get the page on the site up soon.

Thanks!

Benjamin

www.tjstackle.com

ebay id: dayooper25

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We use the toaster ovens also for a small run and thats what I started with .

If you want large qty. cut yourself some allthread the length that will fit in your standard kitchen stove.Place a piece of high temp silicone tubing 3/16" over the weed guards of your jigs and hang them on your allthread then insert in oven at 225 for around 10mins or so than pull out and dip into your fluid bed. then return the jigs to the oven and cure.

The fluid bed is well worth it and you can crank out as many jigs as you want and quickly too.

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I am still new to painting jig heads but have noticed that using powder paint and fluid beds seems to be the way to go, but I have just one stupid question to ask! Can you properly powder coat heads that already have the weedguards in them and if so how do you go about it without messing up or melting the weedguards?

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the problem painting alot of spiner baits at one time and painting the hook. i use a cookie sheat with water in the bottom pull the heated rack out of your oven dip when the hook tuch the bottem stop and powder paint. the water evaps before you dip it. no scaping needed. went i do one at a time i use a spunge.

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