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bassboy77

making my own molds out of bondo?

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The fiberglass resin is a 2 part mix. Make sure that when you buy the resin it comes with the catalyst (hardner) or buy it seperate.

Make sure you wash the baits that you are going to mold with warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly.

Pat or let air dry until no moisture is left on the bait.

If you are molding a clay or wooden prototype, spray with a release agent before pouring resin. A light coat of vaseline or some Pam cooking spray works good.

If you are planning on making a prototype mold, I recommend trying this process on something that you can replace first.

Inside of a small baking dish (glass or metal) glue baits to the bottom. I use superglue to make sure they don't move when I pour the resin. You can find these type of containers cheap at a dollar store or goodwill.

When the glue is dry, use a measuring cup and add enough water to cover the baits with about 1/4" to 1/2" of excess over the baits. This is the amount (in ounces) of resin you will need.

Empty the container, and again thoroughly dry it.

When mixing the resin, the amount of catalyst you use depends on the room temperature.

CAUTION!!! DO NOT MIX INSIDE THE HOUSE!! VERY STRONG FUMES! THE RESIN IS HEAT ACTIVATED AND MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO PLASTIC CONTAINERS OR SURFACES!!!

If the temp is below 70* I do not recommend mixing. Temp between 70* and 75* 10-12 drops per ounce of resin, 75*-80* 8-10 drops and above 80* 8 drops per ounce of resin. If you add too much catalyst, the resin will cure too quickly and cause stress cracks and breakage.

Mix slowly!!!!!! The faster you mix, the more air bubbles it will create. I stir each mixture for approximately 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Make sure if you are mixing more than 20 oz of resin at one time, the container is large enough to let it mix well. I mix my resin in plastic paint measuring cups. They are cheap and allow you enough time to mix before the resin begins to cure.

SLOWLY pour the resin over your baits. VERY SLOWLY!!!!

Let the mold sit undisturbed until it is cool to the touch.

Turn the container over and tap out the mold. (This might take a few trys)

Now just clean up the cavities if you have any excess plastic left over in them.

Spray the mold with some type of release agent before you begin to pour. I use garlic Pam. It adds a touch of garlic scent and allows your baits to be easlily removed from the cavity.

Now just pour your melted plastic and it should be ready to demold within 2 minutes (depending on the thickness of the cavity).

If you would like, I can post a pic of some finished molds for you to see before you buy the materials.

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Nice molds guy's

That raound mold Woodsac has with the lizard seems to be the same resin I use. I actually pour lead into these to make my "dummies" to recast my other molds. I have had only 1 crack from the lead heat. other than that no more fussing with the plastics floating etc. here is my inhaler mold and tonight I will take a picture of all my lead inhalers that Ipoured in this mold.

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Thanks, "logging in" did the deed. Can I conclude that the fiberglass resin is better than plaster? Can someone list the material of preference for molds? I know a Del Mart aluminum mold would be the best, but; I am talking about what most of us could use to make a single cavity mold, ie RTV, Fiberglass, Plaster etc. Thanks, Pop

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No Coley, This one's about fiberglass resin-available in Bondo brand package.

I'm new to mold building, but as for personal preferences to materials- I'm having excellent results from my plaster molds. Coated with the bar top epoxy, the molds turn out super smooth, shiney baits, without using a mold release. You can build custom baits from simple plasticine and make the mold from it. The plaster is inexpensive and safe to work with. You can see an example of one of my molds in another thread.

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I used the stuff that is used to repair dents. It starts out as a grey paste then the hardener is in a tube and depending on how much harderner you use it may turn it pink. I don't know if this is what Woodsac is talking about but it worked for me! I used some old worms to test it out and now all I am waiting on are some coloring from LC to come in.

BassnG3

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Mercury is right. The stuff I'm talking about is a liquid. Depending on the brand, it's been clear, brown or a redish tint. You just mix it up, pour it over whatever you are molding and wait about 2 hours.

If the paste works, that's a good thing. Maybe we can find some other applications for it as well.

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