RiverMan Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 Has anyone come up with a method other than two screw eyes for joining jointed baits? It seems we talked about some light cable of some kind at one time. I am wanting to build a jointed lure and wondering if there is "a better way". Thank you. jed v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiR3 TiG3R Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 here are some ideas that's been running thru my head: 1. halve the lure. chop it into multiple segments. sandwich the halves onto a tough fabric. very snake-like 2. drill 2 parallel holes in each segment, in which a soft multistrand(coated or uncoated) wire may run thru n connect all the pieces 3. this is for 2 segment lures. the front portion make a 't' joint. on the 2nd portion make a 'U' joint. put them together and it will fit. recess some wood off to make them slide in n out loosely. using a bolt/rod, secure the joint vertically. hehhehehehhe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savacs Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 I didn't quite understand the T, and U joint part? Is it the hindge joint u r talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahawai Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 hi, on the jointed lures i've made so far i've used 2 other methods apart from linked screw eyes- 1. through wired (interlinking front and back wire), with the wire running in the middle of the bait(balsa) - 2. through wired (interlinking front and back wire), in a slot cut into the bottom and top of the lure. both work well but are fairly time consuming to do. ideas i am toying around with(some similiar to those already suggested) - 1. using 2 wires as a spine onto which segments are threaded/glued- for security i'd use titanium as normal wire might get fatigued and fail(myabe i'm paranoid) the "jackall mask" hybrid lures use titanium wire embedded in sof plastic i think. - www.jackall.co.jp/ 2. same idea but use a strap (fibreglass or nylon strap) as the spine. 3. use a hinge of some sort. i've been looking at small door/cupboard hinges. stainless steel hinges (boating accesories) are expensive though. a japanese lure manufacturer uses a custom hinge- http://www.lure-fly.com/vagabond/ , look at the "jointed-arrow" lures 4. pin jointed. for examples see the 3:16 hardbaits or evergreen combat lures(esdrive or timberflash) having said all that on hard wood baits, 2 screw eyes may be the simplest method... Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apb Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 I do mine thru-wired. The front part and the back part both have loops in the wire that allow the plug to swing back and forth. Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muskiefool Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 One idea I had was S/S airplane cable 1/8th dia 17 or 1800# breakage but it depends on the size bait your making to also thought of Kevlar string but they say it may not hold up but the strength is like 5-6000# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
out2llunge Posted January 18, 2006 Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 John, I've got a piece of aircraft cable that I bought specifically for that reason. Haven't got around to making the bait yet. Hmm, wonder why.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Posted January 18, 2006 Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 I've had success with the through wire, but failed with light wire. Wire broke when towing them at 5 mph, too much knock'n. Through wire the back end and pour lead into the hole to keep it all together. I have found I like to put the wire on the bottom third of the bait, find it helps to keep it running true rather than flopping onto it's sides as much. Hope this kind of make sense. Found on certain body types you have to move your weight placement as the front section of the bait won't maintain lip angle in the water and will allow the water to run over the lip and give the bait considerably less action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Posted January 18, 2006 Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 I've had success with the through wire, but failed with light wire. Wire broke when towing them at 5 mph, too much knock'n. Through wire the back end and pour lead into the hole to keep it all together. I have found I like to put the wire on the bottom third of the bait, find it helps to keep it running true rather than flopping onto it's sides as much. Hope this kind of make sense. Found on certain body types you have to move your weight placement as the front section of the bait won't maintain lip angle in the water and will allow the water to run over the lip and give the bait considerably less action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted January 18, 2006 Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 theres a fellow imn michigan he screws the front and wires his tails. . soft wire cable can be iffy on trollers though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
