kj Posted August 22, 2003 Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 I could sure use some help in finding some jig paint! I have used CPI's powder and vinyl paints, which work great but not what I need. I am painting jigs in sizes 1/100 to 1/64, and both powder and vinyl clog the holes and tend to be tough to open while fishing. Since the jigs are small I'm not that concerned about the paint chipping too much. I have used Rustoleium, and a cheap car paint, and the rustolium didn't stick, and the car paint stuck but would chip way to easy. PLEASE help, as I need to do several thousand asap. I am just looking for a cheap semi-durable paint that doesn't clog the hole or is VERY easy to bust open the hole in. Any help would be great! kj kszalankiewicz@hotmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeminoleFan Posted August 22, 2003 Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 Kj, One of the thing I know that works is when painting, Use a toothpick while the paint is wet and poke it thru the line tie. This will help. Wipe off the toothpick and do the next one. Also you can use water based paint and use Devcon 2 ton epoxy as a top layer, Which is very durable. Rick SeminoleFan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeminoleFan Posted August 22, 2003 Report Share Posted August 22, 2003 Kj, I forgot to mention that you can use any type of paint under 2 ton epoxy. But for best results, paint it while the lead is still warm, I have found that the paint adheres better while the lead is still warm. Hope this helps. Rick SeminoleFan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted April 2, 2004 Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 Kj, Have you considered fingernail polish? I tie alot of 1/64ths down 1/100th. On the small stuff, fingernail polish is great. Mixes easy, no cleaning brushes and plenty of overcoats (hard as nails, matte, clear, etc.). Also cheap and available all over the place. I like the enamels - one brand name I use most of the time is Wet N' Wild. Dries quick but you are better off letting them sit over night between coats. The eyes clean out real easy with a peacock hurl (before it dries). You might get funny looks buying it - suggest asking wife or girlfriend to help you out. You can also powder paint them as well but it is a little tricky. Instead of heating them up in my toaster oven I use a heat gun - gotta be quick because they cool down real fast - no mass. Do a quick dip and ,before you cure them, clean out the eyes with a pick or needle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8flyz Posted April 2, 2004 Report Share Posted April 2, 2004 I use enamels & vinyl on small jigs, but I usually coat those painted with enamel using Devcon epoxy. I don't have a problem with using the vinyl, and prefer it on 1/32 or smaller jigs. It's certainly more durable than plain enamel, but if you don't want the eyes clogged, why not just get some cheap masking tape & put a small piece over the eye before you dip them. Then just remove the tape before the paint cures well. It's an added step, but so is cleaning the eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted April 4, 2004 Report Share Posted April 4, 2004 I like to use auto paint too, but by your results it sounds as if you are only tapping half of that resource...the clear auto paint will stop that chipping. I would also recommend building a rack so you can hang the jigs by the hook eyes and spray with colored auto laquer and following by clear auto laquer...maybe rig an arm or such on the rack so you can rotate or move the jigs by the eye during the drying/curing stage to keep them from sticking to your rack so they can be removed easily. Maybe even have them lined up so you can paint how-ever many goes in a package to even speed up your shipping? A rack is simple to make and when tailored to your needs can make a bigger difference than I ever thought possible....I spray some acrylics and taxidermy laquers but when I can I prefer to use PPG and BASF laquers with PPG clearcoat, all designed for autobody finishes and when finished right that stuff just ain't coming off from normal fishing use. I use a couple of rack-rigs that I made last winter to paint my spinners on, the first one was a mig-welded marvel of planning and engineering that worked ok...after I quit trying to complicate everything I made a second one was much better for my needs but ...cleaning the rack turned out to be the bigger pain than I planned on...the third and most simple one made from wood and aluminum with cheap little clips to hold everything on...I know how it sounds so go ahead and laugh it up...has been the one that works best for me and allows me to paint 25 or so spinnerbaits 2 colors with a red or orange mouth in just a couple of minutes. I still am "designing" the perfect one, eventually I will find the proper cuss words to perfect it...Sorry for the long-winded post and I know that our painting process probably greatly differ, but I hope it gives you an idea or two to marinate on that will help you, but don't give up on the autobody paint yet! JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SafetyChain Posted April 7, 2004 Report Share Posted April 7, 2004 So if I use Pro Tec paint, what kind of CHEAP clear coat can I use to protect the paint? Do I apply it after the paint is cured and cooled? and should I cure the jig again after the clear coat is applyed? If I use Devcon 2-Ton as a clear coat, should I thin it with acetone so it is "paintable"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coley Posted April 7, 2004 Report Share Posted April 7, 2004 If you use Pro-Tec powder paint for your jigs, you shouldn't have to top coat with Devcon. After the paint is cured in the oven, its about as tough as you can use. I have painted many jigs with powder paint and fish them straight up and down in 30 ft of water on a rocky bottom for Sauger for hours on end and have had some wear on the paint but, no chipping. Coley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted April 12, 2004 Report Share Posted April 12, 2004 I totally agree, Pro Tec needs no clear coat like devcon or clear auto laquer at all, thats the beauty of that stuff. JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
