Dungeonhawk5 Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 I have a few dentist friends and one of them has asked me if i want to come experiment with some of the stuff they use for impressions. its that really thick rubbery stuff that after they take those they make plaster impressions... would that rubbery stuff work as a mold? anyone know? thanks Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 That stuff is pretty cool we use it in the aerospace area to check our parts on a comparator. However its expensive for the amount you need for a mold. It will work but silicon is cheaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dungeonhawk5 Posted February 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 you should know that dentists dont have any idea of money del . im just glad to know that it would work... very happy let me know if you have gotten a chance to check out my custom mold pictures etc I sent you. I think you and april for getting me the invoice out to me the other day. its been paid. thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishful Thinking Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 I have tried the Poly Vinyl Siloxanes on my molds and they work great but they are way too costly. The silicone impression material works well but again is very expensive. Where your dentist friend can really do you some favors is with yellow stone. He will know what that means. Especially if he has a vacuum mixer. I make lots of molds with yellow stone and it is a very good and inexpensive material. My staff gets a little bent out of shape when I mess up the lab with pouring molds for worms. Oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dungeonhawk5 Posted February 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 if i wanted to make some molds with yellow stone, what does that entail? is it a softer thing, or like the name implies, hard like stone? should most dentists have this stuff around? They just opened this office a year ago, its state of the art, ive never seen a practice like this ever... does that stuff work for 2 piece molds? how long is the set up time? I really really need something that I can make a 2 piece mold from hopefully. any more information you could give me would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dungeonhawk5 Posted March 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 just left the dentist office yesterday, after playing in their lab for a bit... the yellowstone is a great material for making molds... its a LOT harder than plaster, but works the same... I really like it.. going to pour a few and see how it comes apart in a two piece, but I ordered a box in the mean time... 25 lbs coming in for me haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishful Thinking Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Yellow stone works great for two piece molds. I have made Senko molds with yellow stone for years. Take a small tupperware container and pour about a half an inch of yellow stone into the container. Lay as many senkos or whatever you are copying into the stone and press them so that they are buried halfway into the stone. Lay a couple of small marbles into the wet stone as well. These will be used for indexing later. Allow this to set up completely. You can begin working with it in about 15 minutes. Remove the marbles. Now paint on a layer of tin foil substitute with a small hobby paintbrush. Your dentist friend will know what tin foil substitute is. Now pour another half inch of yellow stone on top of your embedded Senkos and allow that to set. After allowing about 30 minutes for set time, remove the molds from the tupperware container and seperate the two halves by placing a blunt knife along the seam and tapping gently with a hammer. You now have two halves to work with that are easily indexed where the marbles once were placed. Identify where you want to pour down each of the Senkos with your plastic and use a hack saw to cut across the top of your mold. If you take a tapered drill bit or stone you can create resivours on top of each Senko that will aid in reducing suck back voids. Coat your molds with dilluted epoxy and you are ready to pour up some baits. Good luck and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
