Extremely dirty lead melting for jigs.

[Gloomisman]

I've always used tire weights for molding, but the ones I just recently got are completely covered with rust. I have never seen this before and just wondering if it will clean up and all the impurities still float to the top. lead is denser then iron so I would assume so. And is there any thing else I should watch out for?

[nova]

It will all float to the top; but you do have to work to get it to do that. I use a big spoon to stir the lead and scrape the sides. Then just spoon it off the top.

I use tire weights and pure lead; about 50/50 mix.

[smalljaw]

I do the same thing as nova, I have pure lead ingots and tire weights and mix 50/50. That works well and you can scrape the slag off the top pretty easy. Melting just the tire weights were giving me alot of "incomplete" pours but after mixing in pure lead the problem has dissappeared.

[northrivergeek]

I cleaned out the garage last week, whew I'm tired... 50 yrs accumulation of crap, and 3 big bays .. House used to belong to my father in law , and his father in law b4 that .. anyway .. found a bunch of lead used on chimneys, valleys, and such .. big folded over sheets of the stuff .. guesstimate 200 lbs or more. It was filthy covered in all kinds of crud. I melted a chunk and the slag floated right to the top, made some 1lb ingots and now like new. Also found bout 15 big 20 gal metal barrels full of old tire weights, in back of garage under a old tarp and wood. I don't make jigs .. but I use the lead for belly weights for my crank-baits, might make jigs now that I have such a surplus of lead :-D Of course this is after I rest up, my back is aching.. made 2 piles 30 ft long x 10 wide x 10 ft high along the road for city to pick up of pure junk.

[nova]

What I do is melt down the lead or tire weights (separately). Then I use a muffin pan I found in the kitchen (wife looked for that for quite awhile,lol) to make ingots. I keep them in separated boxes so it's much easier when comes to mix them in the pot.

[ominousone]

O.k. I am brand spankin new to pouring lead, and so far here's where I'm at. I have picked up a lee pot, and also acquired a 5 gallon pail chalk full of tire weights. I have two separate molds that I like that I have picked up.

Now would the next step be to make lead ingots? If so do I just drop the weights in the pot and then the parts that aren't lead will melt off and be free to pick off with a ladel? Slag, that's just junk that I don't want that floats to the top right?

Could I once having clean lead in the pot, pour into molds or is there some kind of benefit to making ingots? I know that leaving the lead in the pot probably isn't smart, so ingots are for storage of lead that has had the slag removed?????

One more question... Muffin tins, do they work well for making ingots? I saw that do-it makes ingot molds, but if I'm just looking for a way to store lead for me, then anything that wouldn't melt that I could easily remove the lead from would work, correct?

Thank you for any/all help in advance.

dazed and confused,

Mat

[Big Splash]

Hey Mat;

Try to melt the bulk lead, not in your lee pot, but in a seperate, usually larger container. That gives you an opertunity to skim off the slag and make clean ingots. Clean ingots are then used in the pot.

[nova]

Yup; it will all float to the top where you can ladel it off. Just be sure you don't put the slag on anything you don't want to burn. I use a large juice can with the top cut off.

Muffin tins work very well for making ingots. The reason I do it is 2 fold. 1:- it is a lot easier to store the lead and 2:- those little lead muffins will fit very nicely into your pot(just don't drop them in though, use pliers or your a large bent spoon).

I would suggest that you try to find some pure lead as well and mix the two types in the pot before you pour your baits. I work at about 50/50.

Just make pure muffins and keep them separate from the tire weight muffins. I use 2 wooden boxes; each about 12"w x 16" L x 8" D. Identify each box clearly.

[dlaery]

I 2nd that to making ingots in a seperate melting pot, like a propane deep fryer. Because with wheels weights you'll have a lot of stuff to skim off and it will keep you new lee pot cleaner.

I never empty a lee pot. That way you keep the junk out of the pouring spout.

I would recoment a full face sheild, like you would use in a machine shop, and glovers, in case any of dirty lead has moisture. Even the driest looking scrap lead can have moisture. Lead pipes are good at having moisture in them and when you put them in already hot lead, it is like a shotgun.

[dayooper]

Another tip for melting wheel weights is to get a big magnent. When the lead melts all of the metal clips will be floating on top. Simply hold the magnent over the top of the pot and the clips will stick to it. It makes it easier then to skim the skag crap out.

[ominousone]

O.k two of you have said that I should not use the lee pot for making ingots. I don't know how else to melt the lead. I bought the lee pot because I wasn't sure how to do this effectively. O.k. so what should I do to make these ingots? Also, if I clean the slag off then what's the purpose of "clean" lead. Isn't the removal of the slag what makes them clean? Thanks to all.

[dayooper]

ominousone,

I have a 10lb Lee cast iron pot that I set on a turkey fryer. I put as many wheel weights in it as I can fit it it so it is heaping and let them all melt. Then using the magnent, remove all the clips ans then skim off the top of the impurities. I then use a pair of heavy gloves an a set of vice grips to pour the lead into an ingot mold. Seems to work well, just time consuming since you can only do 6 or 7 pounds at a time. My wife's uncle is a welder and he is going to make me a larger pot with a spigot to do more at a time.

Benjamin

[Tony Maxwell]

I use both Tire Weights and pure lead, Different types for different applications. I melt both down in an old cast iron ladle over a single burner propane stove, then pour the clean whatever into smaller ingots. I also use a Lee pot for pure lead applications and a smaller iron ladle for the tire weight lead.

Tony in Ohio

When in doubt, Jerk & Shout.

[brjhayes]

If your having trouble keeping your pot clean, try some Plumber's flux, available at home depot or your local hardware store. Apply lots of it to the pot and it will burn off all the slag and excess garbage stuff in your pot. Beware though...you need to do it outside or in a well ventilated area because it will smoke and sometimes sparks a fire in the pot if its really dirty. I do this before every pour and have no problem melting all types of lead from wheel weights to the clean soft stuff.

[WidowMaker]

Be very carefull when melting wheel weights. The metal clips will work loose and allow water to get down into the wheel weights. I once had some sitting in a dry place for several years and had a blow up. Always pre-melt them outside the shop first.

[Skipidar]

Many years ago, when I used a lot of lead for casting bullets, I read about a chemical(s) that could be sprinkled on the top of molten lead in the melting pot that would reduce the amount of toxic fumes produced by the lead. I used a powder composed of these chemicals (or chemical) that seemed to work quite well. It was sprinkled on the surface of the molten lead and formed a glassy sheet on the surface of the  lead. I had no way to test for lead vapour and associated chemicals in the air, so I don't know how effective the chemicals really were that covered the melted lead, but I would like to find out whatever I can about this process. Does anyone remember or know of this process, or have any information about what these chemicals were and how effective they were? I would appreciate any information that you may be able to provide.

Thank you very much!

original.skipidar@gmail.com

[Tiderunner]

On 2/19/2006 at 8:47 PM, Gloomisman said:

I've always used tire weights for molding, but the ones I just recently got are completely covered with rust. I have never seen this before and just wondering if it will clean up and all the impurities still float to the top. lead is denser then iron so I would assume so. And is there any thing else I should watch out for?

I'm curious about the rust. Lead doesn't rust. Before you go crazy melting wheel weights, look on the back of the weight. It may have the symbol "Fe" stamped on there somewhere. That would mean the WW are made from a ferrous metal. Typically steel. Other WW are made from zinc nowadays as well. Zinc blows for melting and casting. If the WW are rusted more than likely they're not lead, but steel.

Maybe the clips on WW are made of a metal containing iron causing the lead to look as though it has rusted?    

All metals oxidize. With lead it will be lead oxide. A grey powdery appearance on the lead. That will rise to the top as slag. However you'll need to flux the molten lead so all of mostly all of your impurities rise to the top where they can be skimmed off.

I use regular candle wax. After the lead is heated I toss some in the pot You'll then have a great show of heavy smoke, and then some flames on the top of the molten lead. After the flame dies down you'll see the crud floating. Skim off and cast away!

One more note. if your lead temps get too high you'll oxidize the lead again while it's heating. Maybe a blue sheen on top? Skim again. and lower your heat. I also take a long match, like those fireplace matches, and lower it to the bottom of the pot, scraping the bottom and side . Yes more smoke and flames, and sme sputtering too. But more crud will rise, and skim.

Lastly, if the WW clips are rusted, there was once water there somewhere. Maybe in the small crevice where it attaches to the lead? Maybe still some moisture in the rust itself? Make absolutely certain you have no moisture anywhere on your metals to be cast, or you will without a doubt be paid a visit from the "glitter fairy"  I heat all my metals to be melted gently with a torch to make sure they're dry before I add them to the pot.

                                           

[Tiderunner]

On 5/13/2006 at 11:22 PM, brjhayes said:

If your having trouble keeping your pot clean, try some Plumber's flux, available at home depot or your local hardware store. Apply lots of it to the pot and it will burn off all the slag and excess garbage stuff in your pot. Beware though...you need to do it outside or in a well ventilated area because it will smoke and sometimes sparks a fire in the pot if its really dirty. I do this before every pour and have no problem melting all types of lead from wheel weights to the clean soft stuff.

Every now and then, you can put a round wire brush into your drill, and have at it with the inside of your Lee pot. If it's the type with the handle you lift for pouring, just remove the handle, and clean away.

I've been doing this for over 30 years now, and have only gone through two pots.

[Tiderunner]

On 3/3/2006 at 6:32 PM, ominousone said:

O.k two of you have said that I should not use the lee pot for making ingots. I don't know how else to melt the lead. I bought the lee pot because I wasn't sure how to do this effectively. O.k. so what should I do to make these ingots? Also, if I clean the slag off then what's the purpose of "clean" lead. Isn't the removal of the slag what makes them clean? Thanks to all.

Use your Lee pot. Just read my post above to keep it clean. I flux my lead, even if its clean lead, every time I melt an ingot.

You can make ingots of mini muffins, just make sure whichever you make fits in the pot when you're done. One final thing I do after each pouring session, and I don't recommend this for anybody of faint heart, I empty the pot as completely as I can, take a strong pipe wrench grab the base and turn the pot over, and give it a good, but not crazy wrap on my workbench surface.( mine is metal), you'd be surprised at how much crud comes out. Mostly unidentifiable stuff.

To clean out the spout I use a fish hook with no barb bent to a 90* angle, or a spinnerbait wire.Heat the wire till red hot, and run it up the spout a couple of times. Every now and then, remove the plunger thing, and go all the way up the spout and hit the plunger lightly with some sandpaper.Especially the tip. Don't go crazy though!

[Kasilofchrisn]

I hope you guys realize your responding to a post from 2006.

Still pertinent information but the original posters may not be here anymore.

[kbonanny]

   What is the best, most cost effective flux out there? What is everyone using? I've been pouring for 38 years now, starting at the age of 11. I have 2 OLD Lee pots...the original "hot pot" with the coils inside of the cast iron "cup" of the melter and I also have one of the original 10lb bottom pour pots that sees a minimum of 50 hours usage every single year. I have never used any flux, and I have never had an issue with either pot. The only issue I ever encounter is getting incomplete pours on some hard to make jig heads...but I'll heat the molds themselves with a propane torch and that usually solves my issue.

    The way I melt down lead is to use the small hot pot as it is super easy to use an old table spoon to continually scrape the bottom and the coils and then simply skim the trash off of the top. I use a real old metal tray to mold my ingots, and the lead I use is all scrap lead...I owned a garage for 28 years so I have access to tons of wheel weights.I will melt down roughly 25 lbs of lead at a time, which I integrate into my pouring sessions as this way I am always doing something while waiting for a mold to heat up (by  resting on top of my bottom pour furnace) and by doing so I am always using my time productively.

   I have found that gave me the= I still do get some slag rising to the top in my larger furnace, but the amount is very little compared to the amount of slag I get when I use the small hot-pot to melt down wheel weights, old sheet lead removed from the walls of a Dr's office that amounted to several hundred lbs used to contain X-Rays within that room. I had a contractor customer who would buy 10-12 dozen round heads, tapered tube heads and a lot of hand ties )buck tail, Marabou, dressed treble hooks etc etc) along with smaller amounts of weedless jigs, wacky heads etc etc..so he gave me all of the sheet lead he took from the job...He told me there was 2-3 times as much left on the job, but it was gone when he got there the next morning. I also have acquired a couple hundred lbs of lead from a plumber friend who is also a customer. I have never had lead that I melt down NOT produce at least a little bit of slag, but the sheet lead was by far the best as I got very little slag from it and being it was in sheet form it melted almost as fast as I could add more to the pot.

   I have thought about using some kind of flux for over 20 years, but never got around to doing so....I couldn't justify spending over 20 bucks for a small box weighing 4 lbs once shipping and tax is figured in....and being i have had very few issues over the years I never saw the need. I didn't know you could use Paraffin wax. I have also read some people use salt, candles (same as Paraffin) .. but I figure there has to be other items as I've found fellow jig head makers are quite an ingenious lot of folks!

    Thanks for your advice!

   Kirk Bonanny kbonanny@gmail.com Jenkins Twp (Pittston-Wilkes-Barre Pa)

[Kasilofchrisn]

28 minutes ago, kbonanny said:

   What is the best, most cost effective flux out there? What is everyone using? I've been pouring for 38 years now, starting at the age of 11. I have 2 OLD Lee pots...the original "hot pot" with the coils inside of the cast iron "cup" of the melter and I also have one of the original 10lb bottom pour pots that sees a minimum of 50 hours usage every single year. I have never used any flux, and I have never had an issue with either pot. The only issue I ever encounter is getting incomplete pours on some hard to make jig heads...but I'll heat the molds themselves with a propane torch and that usually solves my issue.

    The way I melt down lead is to use the small hot pot as it is super easy to use an old table spoon to continually scrape the bottom and the coils and then simply skim the trash off of the top. I use a real old metal tray to mold my ingots, and the lead I use is all scrap lead...I owned a garage for 28 years so I have access to tons of wheel weights.I will melt down roughly 25 lbs of lead at a time, which I integrate into my pouring sessions as this way I am always doing something while waiting for a mold to heat up (by  resting on top of my bottom pour furnace) and by doing so I am always using my time productively.

   I have found that gave me the= I still do get some slag rising to the top in my larger furnace, but the amount is very little compared to the amount of slag I get when I use the small hot-pot to melt down wheel weights, old sheet lead removed from the walls of a Dr's office that amounted to several hundred lbs used to contain X-Rays within that room. I had a contractor customer who would buy 10-12 dozen round heads, tapered tube heads and a lot of hand ties )buck tail, Marabou, dressed treble hooks etc etc) along with smaller amounts of weedless jigs, wacky heads etc etc..so he gave me all of the sheet lead he took from the job...He told me there was 2-3 times as much left on the job, but it was gone when he got there the next morning. I also have acquired a couple hundred lbs of lead from a plumber friend who is also a customer. I have never had lead that I melt down NOT produce at least a little bit of slag, but the sheet lead was by far the best as I got very little slag from it and being it was in sheet form it melted almost as fast as I could add more to the pot.

   I have thought about using some kind of flux for over 20 years, but never got around to doing so....I couldn't justify spending over 20 bucks for a small box weighing 4 lbs once shipping and tax is figured in....and being i have had very few issues over the years I never saw the need. I didn't know you could use Paraffin wax. I have also read some people use salt, candles (same as Paraffin) .. but I figure there has to be other items as I've found fellow jig head makers are quite an ingenious lot of folks!

    Thanks for your advice!

   Kirk Bonanny kbonanny@gmail.com Jenkins Twp (Pittston-Wilkes-Barre Pa)

Look at the top of the wire baits section.

There is a post pinned there with many pages of info on flux and fluxing.

Better to do that then muddle up this already old outdated thread.

Or you could start a new thread on fluxing.

[Gloomisman]

On 4/24/2020 at 9:17 AM, Kasilofchrisn said:

I hope you guys realize your responding to a post from 2006.

Still pertinent information but the original posters may not be here anymore.

Still here.     I mostly spin cast now though.  A lot has changed in 14 years.